Above The Roar: So Close You Can Almost Smell It

EOS, HOS, And Now...

Yes, output on Encyclopedia and History has slacked off a little the past few weeks. But only cause I’m thrashing away on the next (and, God willing, final) website: Above the Roar. Surf Q&A, and nothing but. Like Andy Warhol’[...]

The Cadet and the Surfer

EOS: The Cadet and the Surfer

Rick Rasmussen was once one of the East Coast’s finest tube-threading prodigies. He was the U.S. Surfing Champion in 1974. Even took home the Kneeboarding title, too. Rasmussen toured Bali, shined at G-Land, and turned Gerry Lope[...]

Arnaud de Rosnay: The Dazzler

Arnaud de Rosnay: The Dazzler

Smugger than Justin Bieber on a nude Instagram tear. That’s how I felt a few months ago when I dropped a “10 Most Glamorous Surfers” list, mostly just to get one over on dandy Chas Smith, arbiter of all things fashionable in surf[...]

The Father of Computerized Shaping

The Father of Computerized Shaping

Today’s surfboards are built with levels of precision and consistency unheard of when shapers were still kicking chickens out of their shaping bays and ashing joints into the resin tints. Love ’em or hate ’em, compute[...]

Zapped!

Zapped!

Geoff McCoy’s Lazor Zap surfboard design—generically called the “no-nose”—looked incredibly sexy and futuristic, but was skittish and high-floating and drive-free and more or less impossible to ride unless you were Cheyne[...]

Oh Larry! Where Is Thy Sting?

Oh Larry! Where Is Thy Sting?

Stingers. I loved ’em. And yes, I know Ben Aipa called it a “sting,” and we’ve been saying it wrong for 40 years now, but that’s the wonderful thing about the English language—if it’s wrong for long enough, it’s right. [...]

Remembering Farrelly

Remembering Farrelly

Midget Farrelly, world-champion, boardmaker, and iconoclast, died yesterday at age 71 from stomach cancer. He was a beautiful wave-rider, controlled and polished but with a dynamic be-bopping flair. After making a close study of Califo[...]