Arnaud de Rosnay: The Dazzler

Arnaud de Rosnay: The Dazzler

Smugger than Justin Bieber on a nude Instagram tear. That’s how I felt a few months ago when I dropped a “10 Most Glamorous Surfers” list, mostly just to get one over on dandy Chas Smith, arbiter of all things fashionable in surf[...]

Sandboarding’s Great Conspiracy

Sandboarding’s Great Conspiracy

I spend my days on the riverbanks of surf history, hunkered down on my thin old-man shanks, panning through silt and stones. It is tedious but satisfying labor. Meditative, almost. The job is not so important in the grand scale of thin[...]

Backdoor: What’s In A Name?

Backdoor: What’s In A Name?

Backdoor. Gotta be wrong on this one, but at the moment, I can’t think of another break where the right off the peak has a different name than the left. Pipeline, Backdoor. Sometimes Backdoor Pipe, but usually just Backdoor. Same bre[...]

Frozen Too: I Can’t Feel My Face

Frozen Too: I Can’t Feel My Face

A couple years ago, I copied down this quote from writer and surf-intellectual Ted Endo: “Wetsuits are the airplanes of the surfing world. They allow us to do something miraculous (survive cold water for hours on end) and yet they ar[...]

Does This Donut Smell Funny?

Does This Donut Smell Funny?

I’m going to get some of the details wrong, but runner-up best prank, surf industry division, goes like this. Surfboard magnate Dewey Weber had a beloved dog, a German Shepherd mix, all white, named “Whitey.” Dewey would call Whi[...]

Stoke Up Your Monday

Stoke Up Your Monday

Perhaps where you live, it isn’t literally the coldest place in America today (Seriously, 58 degrees in San Francisco, lowest temp in continental U.S. for what seems like the sixty-millionth day in a row). Maybe it’s sunny [...]

Bill Hamilton Was Tougher Than You

Bill Hamilton Was Tougher Than You

Hit “play,” and freeze at 1:13. If you’re a wave rider of a certain age (old), you should experience a small thrill of horror. That’s Billy Hamilton, surfing’s own Jesus of Cool, feet up and auguring into the dusty French pav[...]