Mike Hynson: Rebel Rebel

Mike Hynson: Rebel Rebel

Mike Hynson was the second-most polarizing 1960s surfer, behind Mickey Dora. Those who would kneel before Hynson and kiss the ring on his well-manicured hand were roughly equal in number to those who would’ve liked to see his pri[...]

Above The Roar: So Close You Can Almost Smell It

EOS, HOS, And Now...

Yes, output on Encyclopedia and History has slacked off a little the past few weeks. But only cause I’m thrashing away on the next (and, God willing, final) website: Above the Roar. Surf Q&A, and nothing but. Like Andy Warhol’[...]

Sandy Beach: The Paralyzer

Sandy Beach: The Paralyzer

It still happens, on occasion, that I find myself on a beach somewhere, board in hand, trunks or wetsuit put on front-side facing front, looking out to some shapely not-too-crowded waves. My focus at this point goes full laser. I will [...]

Losing My (Tube) Virginity

Losing My (Tube) Virginity

Jay Adams and his mom Philainie spent the summer of 1973 in a funky one-bedroom Waikiki apartment a block or so behind International Marketplace, just off Ala Wai Boulevard. Might have been his present for graduating Anchorage Elementa[...]

Eve Does Five Summer Stories

Eve Does Five Summer Stories

Eve Babitz is the 20-year-old Los Angeles ingénue you see above, playing state-of-nature chess in 1963 with French artist Marcel Duchamp. Babitz was many things in the ’60s and ’70s. Goddaughter to composer Igor Stravinsky. Laughi[...]

Chopes: Out Come the Freaks

Chopes: Out Come the Freaks

I sliced and diced the Teahupoo bits from 1997’s Quiksilver Country to make the edit you see here. Also sliced and diced “Devil’s Haircut,” by Beck, who built that monster truck of a song by slicing and dicing Van Morrison’s [...]