How To Paddle Out to a Localized Spot

Patience and respect are more impressive than good surfing when working your way into a lineup. Photo: Glaser

First of all, don’t paddle out to a localized spot. If you’re too hard-headed or frothy not to, be certain that you can surf the place better than the bottom third of the surfers out there. And even if this is the case, paddle out alone. If you’re with a friend, stagger your sessions. Once in the lineup, pick off the insiders or waves no one wants. Take medium or set waves when no else is able, or if you find yourself in the prime position and to do otherwise would single you out as unworthy. Repeat these steps enough times, and you might not always be so unlocal.