How To Tell A Great Surf Story

How can one make a surf story exciting without engaging in felony hyperbole? Let’s be honest, a well-told surf tale elevates the teller. A story about a bad wipeout is really a story about how you’re tough enough to survive a bad wipeout; a story about scoring perfect waves with just you and two bros is really a story about how you’re such an intuitive surf forecaster that you can out-do Sean Collins on a good day. With that in mind, the key to spinning a successful surf yarn is appearing humble.

For example, if you’re about to describe your best surf session ever, try prefacing that chapter of the story by saying, “I know I’m never going to be offered a six-digit contract by Billabong, but…” After that disclaimer, you now have carte blanche to brag a bit about a session. If you’re trying to impress upon your audience how big the waves were, don’t blurt out: “The waves were 20 feet!” Instead, calmly state, “It was like six feet…Hawaiian.” Because the only tool more effective that being humble is knowing how to judge wave-height in Hawaiian.