I Dream Of An Interesting 2017 WCT

I Dream Of An Interesting 2017 WCT

The 2017 WCT kicks off this week with SO MANY QUESTIONS: Will Facebook save pro surfing? Will Fanning or Slater win agai….yawn, sorry, fell asleep just thinking about that possibility Who’s in charge of the WSL now anyway, [...]

A Case For Off-The-Rack Surfcraft

A Case For Off-The-Rack Surfcraft

Of all the quirks that make up the inexplicable delights of our strange little surf world, the romance of the custom-built surfboard might be the most cherished quirk of all. I don’t really know if the market backs up that claim [...]

World Title Contenders, Ranked

World Title Contenders, Ranked

With the anything-but-quick Quik Pro and the Bells slopfest in the books, predicting contenders for the 2015 WSL crown is a breeze. This is especially true because, unlike, say, baseball, which will occasionally produce champions that [...]

Does Localism “Work”?

Does Localism “Work”?

From 30 years of observing guarded lineups across the globe, the first thing I should have told him is that localism is an inexact science. Regardless of how close you live to a spot, or how many years you’ve put in, or how well you [...]

See Ya, Slater?

See Ya, Slater?

Kelly Slater turned 42 this week. Mick Fanning is 32. Parko’s knocking on 33’s door. Taj is 35. That’s four of the ASP’s top-five, right there, all north of 30. This, as you may be aware, is unprecedented. Remember when Occ[...]

Surfers are Sheep

Surfers are Sheep

As I sat there watching it, I noticed something else. Just a short distance up the beach, less than a 100 yards north of the Lowers left was a newly-formed little right, which was surprisingly steep, consistent, and fun-looking. To my [...]