Greg Long on Fear

A blunt interview with one of history's finest big-wave riders

Greg Long peered over the edge of everything in 2012 when he nearly drowned after falling on a massive wave at Cortes Bank. Well, technically, according to Long, he did drown, experiencing a non-fatal drowning. In this interview with Vice Sports, Long opens up about dealing with the his fear of the ocean after his drowning episode, what it was like to hide that fear from the surf world, and how he reflected on and grew from the entire experience. Long’s a thoughtful, articulate guy, and it’s moving to hear a waterman as respected as he is struggle with tamping down his ego, and coming to terms with his own fears of sizable surf.