Photos and words by Jimmicane
My inbox has been active lately.
“Where are you?” is being asked 50 times over through all forms of messages. There’s a reason I’m not speaking. That’s lazy. That’s easy. That’s totally disrespectful to local surfers.
The spots and islands we have visited this past week are not complete secrets. They all have many surfers and they are all stoked beyond belief to be receiving waves that rarely, if ever, resemble this. But we did go to these islands on our own research and hunches, and after years of waiting for a storm as rare as this. We didn't get anywhere from an Instagram post telling us where, when and how. Hopefully these places can stay that way.
We’ve seen spots go from two feet to twelve in a matter of a couple hours. We’ve seen them drop in exactly the same fashion.
At one point, on the way to the airport heading back to Florida, we pulled up to “just give it one more check.” Mysteriously, the spot we’d been surfing for multiple days was three times the size (while everywhere else was smaller) and we had no choice but to unpack, paddle out and miss our flight.
We ended up getting straight denied. Dylan Graves took a 15-foot set on the head nearly a half mile out from the beach and was rolled all the way in. At the same time the wind switched to devil, and what was supposed to be our magic, icing on the cake session was cut out completely. Back to surfing three foot air ramps down the way. That's the nature of Hurricane swells. They're nearly impossible to predict.
We have many more stories from Hurricane Matthew. Plenty of shockers and plenty of epic times. More lineup photos than I’d ever know what to do with.
What comes from these storms can be unbelievable. It can also be unbelievably catastrophic. I’m fearful for people in Haiti, Cuba, the Bahamas, and what now looks to be up the entire east coast. Hurricane Matthew has been fun the past week, but now it’s turned extremely scary.
Good luck to everyone out there. Please be prepared for the worst and stay safe.