I hope everybody is doing great. This message is to be shared with the entire surfing community. It is time to move on and focus our energies in a positive direction.
I have no hard feelings towards Garrett nor do I blame him for what happened to me that day at Cortes. I have seen the video of our wave, and acknowledge that neither or us were going to successfully make it. I can easily think of a hundred things that people did that day, including myself, that would have potentially put me in a different place and time on that particular wave. But thinking about such things is a waste of precious time, energy, and life. I choose to live my life in the present moment. Not in the past and down a rabbit hole of “what ifs,” “could haves,” or “should haves”. It was my choice to be out there that day, and in doing so, I assumed full responsibility for anything that could have happened. There are countless lessons to be learned from that experience for myself, Garrett, and the entire surfing community. I am confident these lessons will be taken to heart, and used to better ourselves as we all continue on our paths of personal and professional growth.
I would once again like to extend my heartfelt gratitude to all who were involved in saving my life. I sincerely appreciate everybody’s comments and concern for my health and well being. Rest assured, I am living with an even fuller love and appreciation for life than ever before, and will be back in the water soon.
Love, light, and an abundance of beauty and barrels to you all in the coming year.