You know the game: you’re given three options (of people, celebrities, places, things) and you’re forced to carefully choose (through intense analytical processes) which one you’d kill, which one you’d be with for the rest of your life, and which one you’d have one wild night with. We turned this game on Maui surfer Albee Layer, to see which wave he’d surf forever, which one he’d obliterate, and which one he’d like to have a brief dalliance with.
Here are his choices:
“I guess I’d marry Jaws because it’s my favorite wave and I couldn’t live without it [laughs]. I remember the first time I realized I wanted to surf Jaws forever was the second wave I got out there towing it. I was so deep and going so fast and I remember thinking, ‘This is more fun than anything else.’ Even when Jaws is small, you can surf it. Inside by the rocks there are little novelty waves that you could probably try an air on. So even though it doesn’t break that often, you could always find waves when there’s a little swell—if you were desperate and had to marry it.”
Bang: SHIPSTERN BLUFF
“I’ve always wanted to surf there. I’ve been addicted to watching footage of that wave since people first started putting clips of it out there. Watching guys like Hippo and Mark Matthews makes me want to go over to Tasmania. It looks scary and I’m so out of my element in cold water that I don’t know if I’d want to do it all the time. But I definitely want to give it a go. I take trips to West Oz, but I’ve never been to Tasmania. I need to go there. I’ll do it this year.”
Kill: LOWER TRESTLES
“I hate that wave so much. It’s not just the crowd; I really don’t like the wave at all. I think it’s slow and boring. People say it’s a high-performance wave, but I think it’s been over 10 years since the best airs have been done at Trestles. Shane Beschen and Chris Ward were doing everything that’s being done now, pretty much. It’s more like a medium-performance wave. I’ve surfed it once over the past three years, and I regretted it immediately. I could easily go the rest of my life with out surfing it. Actually, I plan to go the rest of my life without surfing it.”