DANNY: I feel so blessed to be born and raised in Hawaii and then to share that same experience with my daughter; it’s just such a beautiful quality of life. Sitting on the beach all day…surfing…more beach [laughs] Like, now that we’ve been living in California, when we’re here around the Triple Crown for most of November and December, my daughter can’t get enough of playing on the beach or over at Beaver Creek by Pipeline.
My wife and I have lived in different places, from Kauai to New York to Los Angeles, and we made those sacrifices for our careers. But there’s just no place like the North Shore; we just love every second back there. The golden sand beaches, the water, those sunsets — c’mon!Danny Fuller. Photo: Taras
I think that you’re raised in a different manner when you’re brought up in Hawaii. So many of my friends out here have kids now — Nathan Fletcher and Evan Valiere — so it’s like play-day every day for my daughter. It’s typical Hawaiian style, too, so there’s endless aunties and uncles around, always “day care” just one finger away at any given moment [laughs]. But I also really want to give my daughter a good understanding of what Hawaii’s all about and its rich culture. I think we could all use a little Hawaii and aloha spirit in us, ya know?Josh Kerr. Photo: Scotty Hammonds
JOSH: Coming from California, this time of the year gets a little cold there, so when we get to the North Shore, you’re just instantly warmed up by it all. You just instantly live that beach lifestyle. There’s something about just waking up and seeing the ocean, being able to watch it in all its glory; it’s just such a unique place that can go from 2 feet in the morning to 20 feet in the afternoon. Having my family feel that raw energy and how we’ve learned to respect that…it’s amazing.Josh and Sierra Kerr. Photo: Sherm
This year the waves have been big a lot though, so as far as playing in the water, we had to be a little more careful [laughs]. But we’ve been building jumps into the water for the boogie boards, playing football on the beach, just having a blast.
I don’t think my kids get too nervous, although this year was a little gnarly. We watched a lot of dangerous situations go down at Pipe, what with Evan and Bede. They just give me a kiss before I go.