BRUCE IRONS MEDITATES. Did you know that? Anytime he desires, he closes his lids and stares into his late brother’s eyes. I didn’t see that coming, not from Bruce. But I think that’s maybe the best thing I’ve heard all month. The best thing I’ve seen, well, that’s a toss-up between the girls of Stab, who we’re seriously considering including in next year’s Swimsuit issue, and SURFING photographer DJ Struntz’s Costa Rican score.
Babes. Waves. It was a good month. A month of reinvention.
This issue celebrates the zags in a world of zigs. During the magazine’s creation I was reading The Gang That Wouldn’t Write Straight, a book that details the New Journalism movement of the 1960s. New Journalism was a transformation led by a group of brazen writers and editors who tired of traditional, dry journalism and took to writing nonfiction like novels. Hunter S. Thompson. Tom Wolfe. Gay Talese. Guys we now consider legends because they changed the game. The movement was met with angry letters and uproar from conventional journalists who held tightly to their rigid story templates like the last sips of water in the Sahara. New Journalism was a paradigm shift. It was change. It was scary.
What you’ll find in this magazine isn’t so scary (unless you’re talking about Dorian’s Maverick’s barrel), but it’s change nonetheless. Fun change. A collection of articles, interviews, profiles and photos that celebrate approaching the things we’ve done for years in a new and exciting way. Like Costa Rica, for instance. A beaten path if there ever were one, DJ and crew put a new spin on it when they went to the Caribbean side and rediscovered waves that were comparable to Cloudbreak. Reward for risk, as it should be. Like Stab dolling up half the women’s World Tour and revealing them revealing almost all, and making us question our stereotypes of girl surfers. And like Chas Smith’s profile on Julian Wilson, who is hitting the reset button and changing his tour approach this year with a renewed sense of belonging. The angle that Chas took with the article — its setting and structure — is one that would make the New Journalists proud.
So much new. So much change. So much fun. —Taylor Paul
Inside this Issue
078 COSTA REDUX
You’ve been to Costa Rica. So has your cousin, the one with the soft top. And your yoga teacher. But have we all been missing something? A whole other coastline, perhaps? Despite rumors of crime and fickle waves, SURFING senior photog DJ Struntz, CJ Hobgood, Balaram Stack and Eric Geiselman venture to right-side waters. Guided by Jah and His local prophet, Gilbert Brown, the crew loots a local treasure.
092 JULIAN WILSON SAT BETWEEN TWO BLONDES
Chas Smith and a pair of ladies dine with Julian Wilson in San Francisco’s Chinatown. It is there that Julian talks of expectations, a tumultuous rookie year and his hope for the future. A future that, as Chas Smith graciously surmises, will be brighter than all the rest.
REINVENTING THE SURF GIRL
From girl next door to Aphrodite, no one does a makeover like Stab. Sam McIntosh and Derek Rielly lend us the goods on their swelteringly sexy fashion shoots. (We’re not giving them back.)
REINVENTING THE BIG-WAVE LINE
Shane Dorian, big-wave surfing’s Ferdinand Magellan, continues to brave new passages on stalwart craft. He discusses how he rides Maverick’s like the right at Pipe and we listen, intently.
REINVENTING THE SURFBOARD DIMENSION
It’s a measurement of liquid and the reason why you float. But why is it vacant from the stringer? Rusty Preisendorfer explains the lost dimension.
REINVENTING THE RIVALRY
Tired of “good sports” in competitive surfing? Samesies. Where are the rivalries of old? Here — according to Chas Smith, who says that Kolohe hates John John and John John hates Kolohe. So it is written, so it shall be.
Among these images is one that photo editor Peter Taras says is one of the best photos taken all year. Can you guess which one?