The Time It Takes
My favorite magazine is Esquire's annual "What I've Learned" issue. I enjoy it because, while I'll never have the chance to converse with Robert De Niro, Yoko Ono or Danny DeVito, through their interviews I get a glimpse inside their minds. And some of the most memorable advice I've received has come from total strangers in the pages of that yearly magazine. In this year's issue, for example, actor Mandy Patinkin said, "The time it takes to get something done is the time it takes." A simple thought, sure, but when you're strapped with deadlines and tracking down interviews with surfers that never sit still, insight like that can help bring some valuable peace of mind.
We chased a lot of interviews for this issue. Because in the same way I'll never have access to Beyoncé or Barack Obama, most readers of SURFING don't have the opportunity to sit down for a beer with John John or a coffee with Kolohe. The editors and writers of this magazine are lucky enough to have that chance, and we embraced it with open arms. Now, we're bringing those conversations to you.
We think you'll learn a lot, but if nothing else you'll surely be entertained. What is Jeremy Flores doing that will totally change your perception about him? How does Coco Ho feel about getting naked in the pages of ESPN? What does Mason Ho think of Coco's boyfriend? What female surfer does John John really not want to come up against in a heat? Can Kolohe actually pinpoint the best wave of his life? [Spoiler alert: Yes, and you're looking at it]. Oh, and what will happen when a Brazilian finally wins a world title?
There are over 12,000 words to read in the following pages. Some deep, some playful, but all good. So get off Tinder, put down that iPhone. Grab a cold beverage. Find a comfortable chair. We took Mandy Patinkin's advice this month and spent a whole lot of time making this magazine, and now, we think it's worth yours. —Zander Morton