LOTW runs for seven days, with the week’s most brilliant submissions picked and posted every Monday on surfingmagazine.com. There are two ways to write in: send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org, or use the Write a Letter tab on our Facebook page.We were under the impression that surfing was fun, but this week’s LOTW tore holes in that theory from atop the ivory tower of academia.
Has someone ever said to you, “The best surfer is the one who’s having the most fun”?
And if so, has it ever struck you what patronizing bullshit that is? It’s nonsense people spoon-feed kooks to repair their beaten egos, and to make themselves feel kind and wise, but it makes the kook feel worse than ever, and resentful of that condescending fuck telling him his busted cutback is jolly good as long as he keeps smiling! Smiling!
The best surfer is the one who surfs the best. Is the fastest runner the one who’s having the most fun? Is the most effective politician the one who’s having the most fun? Is Kelly Slater having the most fun?
I hate when people reduce surfing to a falsely laid-back leisure pursuit and not a challenge, a skill, a mountain worth climbing. If you’re having fun, good for you, but anyone can have fun. Infants have shit tons of fun drooling and vomiting strained pees. So wow, bravo happy pants. But if you master the surf craft, and do it with style, and don’t talk it up, then you’re worth your salt.
Fenton, 19 years old at UCSC