There was once a boy named Rick Kane and he grew up dreaming of riding the giant surf on Oahu's North Shore. One day he went to the North Shore and realized that he was in over his head. Riding giant surf is not as easy as it looks! Thankfully he met a crusty local with a heart of gold who slowly and steadily taught him how to excel. Rick listened and learned and ended up a winner.
Hollywood loves the crusty local with the heart of gold more than almost every other story element. It makes all film, from Rocky to Karate Kid to Step Up, soar. And Hollywood hopes that it will make its newest foray into surf, Chasing Mavericks starring Gerard Butler, soar too.
I love when Hollywood makes boxing movies, karate movies and dance movies but I love when they make surf movies the most. I love when they made North Shore and Point Break and In God's Hands and Blue Crush and Blue Crush 2 and Surfer, Dude. It gives us all something to chuckle about and some of us something to hate and hate is funny (see comments below). It also makes stars out of surfers. Laird Hamilton, Shane Dorian, Keala Kennelly, Mark Occy Occhilupo to name but a few.
And in its newest foray into surf, Gerard Butler looks stiff. The curly headed child playing Jay Moriarity looks bad. But Greg Long looks like a born natural! He is dreamboat handsome, first and foremost. Look at those eyes! They crinkle and glow and spread a gorgeous light. Chestnut hair that begs to be rubbed. The way he delivers his line, "It's too big for the kid…" So much commitment! So much sexy panache! Such a star! (see comments below). I will see Chasing Mavericks for Greg Long. I will sit in the front row of the theater wearing a Team Greg t-shirt. I will glare at anyone from Team Rusty.