As surfers, we take ourselves too seriously. We get caught up in the daily hustle of balancing water time with real-life responsibilities (of which we’re still trying to decipher). We become entangled in so-called rules and mug faces and “I was deeper” and “You just got a wave”.
Yes, it’s true, there’s an unwritten doctrine of etiquette that people conveniently forget, and yes, you may want to slap the smile off that guy on the soft-top getting every decent wave. But don’t you recall why we all started this silly “sport” to begin with?
It’s pure fun – and that’s why we do it. That’s why we wake up at ungodly hours. Why we drink copious amounts of caffeine and why we choose to shimmy into wet, stench-ridden heaps of neoprene. There are plenty of things to get distressed about in life, but surfing should never be one of those.
Dylan Graves is walking, hair-whipping, ear-to-ear-grinning proof of how surfing should make you feel. Here, he keeps things light at home in Puerto Rico — and how fun does that look?