There’s a strange feeling that comes over me when I’ve been out of the water for too long. I begin to feel stale, as if I’m rotting out from the inside. This may sound extreme, but it’s true. Reality starts to melt as the dry spell continues and eventually time accumulates into a blurred pile of wasted dates.
Now, I’ve never been the type who absolutely needs to be in the water every morning at dawn – it’s just never been my thing. I surf when it’s convenient for me. Laziness? Quite possibly. With that being said, I still enjoy every session as much, if not more, than the last – and I thrive to get in the water as often as possible. But it’s when this “as often as possible” regimen starts to dwindle between “real world” priorities that my mind begins to drift into an oblivion of questioned existence.
Say what you will, but this restlessness is healthy. And yes, some may call it crazy (moms, girlfriends, bosses, teachers etc.), but it’s what keeps our devotion to the sport so true.
Here, after two months in a haze of surf-less boredom due to an injury, Parker Coffin finally reunites with what’s eluded him for sixty days – and all in the world is right again. -Dayton Silva