What sense does surfing appeal to the most?
It’s really a two-horse race. You can immediately rule scent out because we piss all over ourselves like defeated Ottoman warriors on the last few breaths of a noble life and our oceans teem with feces and condoms and jellyfish. Sound? Not much there, unless your ears perk up to the tune of a thousand bowling balls colliding. On taste: sea salt takes some refining now doesn’t it?
And now we’re left with sight and touch.
The obvious answer to our initial question would be touch. Only a surfer knows the feeling — ain’t that right Bill — and any twin finner from here to Montauk will look with a straight face and talk about glide. Maybe that’s why they like motorbikes? Yes Deus?
But maybe sight is where it’s at. Surfing media is fueled by imagery. They tell stories and inspire. Without photos, we have nothing. And, well, when you think of the best barrel — do you remember the vision or the feel?