Surfing is image-driven.
Not in an automobile sense. If images drove us in automobiles, we’d all be dead on the side of some foggy coastal highway because we figured a classic print from Aaron Chang would be a fair and reasonable driver. But surfing is image-driven in the sense that pictures drive us to be better surfers. We see a good photo and we want to go surfing and do whatever we’ve just seen. Instantly. We don’t even wait until soles have found sand to begin fathoming. We immediately insert ourselves into a photo. It’s called living vicariously. And no one is immune to it.
Not even Julian Wilson, not even right now. In the photo above, Julian eye-witnesses a Dusty Payne alley-oop and fathoms with all his heart. He wants to feel what Dusty’s feeling. And he probably did on the very next wave.
An Aaron Chang print still can’t drive your car.