Twenty Things To Do Before You Die
Part 1: Get busy living.
No. 01: Tell yourself you’re going no matter what.
No. 02: Then go, no matter what.
No. 03: Surf Jeffrey’s Bay
No. 04: Know it’s sharky and paddle out anyway.
No. 5: Do a Proper Air.
Yes, you should learn how to do a proper cutback first. But if you’ve got the basics dialed, don’t be afraid to take flight. Aerial surfing is both today and tomorrow and you don’t want to be left riding waves yesterday. Nothing makes surfing go stale quicker than a progressive plateau, spending months trying to incrementally improve your whitewater rebound. Forget that. Embrace advancement. Embrace the future. Embrace flight.
No. 06: Enter a contest.
No. 07: Art up your board.
No. 08: Learn how to fix your own dings.
No. 09: Succeed in asking someone out in the lineup.
No. 10: Own a Wavestorm (you can always return it).
No. 11: Organize a “Lowers Raid” at your homebreak.
No. 12: Study abroad somewhere with good waves.
There is no greater college coup than studying abroad. It’s basically a yearlong vacation on your parents, plus you get school credit and learn a new language. And if you’re smart, you can surf, too. Forget Madrid, Paris and Florence, and don’t be fooled by coastal countries with programs inland (i.e. Santiago, Chile; San Jose, Costa Rica). Do your research and get somewhere coastal, with good waves and public transportatiom. A few options:
- Vina del Mar, Chile
- San Sebastian, Spain
- Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
- Gold Coast, Australia
- Sydney, Australia
- Dunedin, New Zealand
- Cape Town, South Africa
- Lima, Peru
No. 13: Do a proper strike mission.
No. 14: Splurge
Tavarua. Nihiwatu. The Ratu Motu. You’ve dismissed them all because “they’re too expensive” and “you could never afford it” F–k that. Pick up extra shifts. Sell some shit on Craigslist. Sell some weed. Sell your organs. Hustle. Save up. Put it all on red and buy your slot. And once you’re committed, leave all expectations at home, and just enjoy yourself. Nothing spoils luxury like dwelling on its effects on your bank account.
No. 15: Learn how to fall.
No. 16: Aqua poop.
No. 17: Surf while it’s snowing
It’s so logically wrong that it feels so right. Getting those weird looks from strangers as you suit up. Trudging across the beach making footprints in the snow instead of sand, watching the flakes fall silently onto water, where they melt on contact. Yes, it’s cold. But it’s likely uncrowded and definitely unforgettable. Five places to make this happen.
- Nova Scotia
- Northeastern Seaboard
No. 18: Give a grom a wave.
No. 19: Shape a board.
No. 20: Get barreled in front of your friends.
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