We humans are creatures of habit.
For some of us, that means a 7 AM alarm, a hot cup of coffee, a 9-5 work day, a frozen dinner, and a few TV shows before bed. This is not a dreamy lifestyle, but it is reality for many, many people.
For others, habitual patterns aren’t so stale. Take Clay Marzo, for example. The introverted Hawaiian spends his year chasing winter around the world, mainly between his two home-stations of Maui and Kalbarri, WA. What these places lack in people, they make up for with death-defying slabs that Clay generally refers to as “fun”. In other words, these locales are perfect for him.
But Australia has another coast, one with its own cluster of meaty reef breaks. Clay would usually not be interested in the journey east — as Sydney has notoriously aggressive crowds — but when he saw the swell of the decade tracking towards Australia’s eastern seaboard, he simply couldn’t refuse.
Here, Clay learns that habits are sometimes meant to be broken.