A few weeks ago, the first footage of Kelly Slater’s wavepool went public and blew us/you/everybody away. The wave was flawless, and bigger than any man-made wave the world has ever seen. It has the potential to change surfing forever.
But until then, we’re doing just fine.
One of the best waves in California went off yesterday, and it did so in a way that only the ocean can. It was raw and it was real. Some waves could turn you into an unintentional gymnast via the backwash, other waves could be stored in your memory banks for eternity. It was a very honest form of perfection. The type a wave pool could never know. The type that makes us love surfing so very much.