Nic Von Rupp: …Instead of Family
"Surfing is kind of both your worst enemy and best friend. [laughs] It’s always your priority and, yeah, being a surfer, you can be pretty selfish. Especially if you wanna score and get big, perfect waves. You leave everything behind. I’ve missed nearly every single family get-together because I’ve been at a contest or chasing swells. I’ve missed Christmases, birthdays, my own birthday… My family just doesn’t quite get why I don’t want to be home for all that or be together with family and friends. I guess I’m the only surfer in the family, so it’s hard for them to understand my obsession. But even the plain fact of how fast conditions can change — with it being firing one day and bad the next — to be on top of that, you have to chase it. I think a lot of people don’t have as much passion for something as a lot of surfers have. They might not know what it’s like to be totally devoted to something, having to chase it at any cost. But of course that has an aspect of selfishness because you’re choosing that — instead of anyone else. I guess it’s kind of a sensitive subject, whether for family or a girlfriend…But at the end of the day, it’s about finding a balance. Trying to make it up to them when the waves are not good, even if the priority is still the waves. [laughs]"