Kepa

“There will be a day when our memories will be our wealth.”
-Paul Géraldy, French Poet

The first time I came to Namibia was in May 2010, on a solo journey, with nothing but a backpack and a board bag. At that time, I did not have much information about the place, and I was a little fearful. But I still felt compelled to go. A couple of months before, Cory Lopez and his friends had released a video that featured a dream lefthand wave that seemed to be from another planet: Skeleton Bay.

 

I spent a month and a half waiting for the wave to get perfect, but it never happened. In the wait and expectation, what remained in my memory were long nights spent sleeping in the desert, loneliness, close friends – a thousand anecdotes to enrich the trip.

Hut
Kepa

Six years later, I was back in Namibia. This time I came with my good friends Natxo Gonzalez, Dani Diez, and Igor Bellido, with the hope of scoring. As soon as we saw a huge swell travelling though the South Atlantic, we bought our tickets, and we were soon there. The swell had moved across the ocean for days. We showed up – Completely flat. But we could feel, for reasons unknown to us, that the next day was going to be different.

Children
Water
Elephant
Kepa

It was 4:30 in the morning, and we were on our way to the wave. The first light of the morning was showing. The sea sounded strong. We drove alongside the coast at full speed, about to reach the spot, full of excitement. As we came around the bend in the coastline, we saw a wave slowing down in the fog. Finally, we could see what had since then been a longtime dream. We followed the shoreline 100 meters, 200 meters, 500 meters. The wave seemed so perfect and static at the same time, its barrel spinning tight. We couldn’t help but to start screaming.

 

The bay became a sacred temple of endless tubes. I'd never seen anything like it. If there was ever a reason to believe in a higher power, this was the place to find it.

 

After ten hours of tubes and pure bliss, we had ridden the best waves of our lives. We felt like the happiest men in the world. The swell was slowing down, and it would be gone the next day. But that was the day, as Géraldy said, when our memories would turn into wealth. Those memories are the ones we will never be able to forget.

Skull
Kepa
Ripping