It was 4:30 in the morning, and we were on our way to the wave. The first light of the morning was showing. The sea sounded strong. We drove alongside the coast at full speed, about to reach the spot, full of excitement. As we came around the bend in the coastline, we saw a wave slowing down in the fog. Finally, we could see what had since then been a longtime dream. We followed the shoreline 100 meters, 200 meters, 500 meters. The wave seemed so perfect and static at the same time, its barrel spinning tight. We couldn’t help but to start screaming.
The bay became a sacred temple of endless tubes. I'd never seen anything like it. If there was ever a reason to believe in a higher power, this was the place to find it.
After ten hours of tubes and pure bliss, we had ridden the best waves of our lives. We felt like the happiest men in the world. The swell was slowing down, and it would be gone the next day. But that was the day, as Géraldy said, when our memories would turn into wealth. Those memories are the ones we will never be able to forget.