Three turns, a six-second barrel, two more turns, and quaking hamstrings: all in a set’s work for Hurricane Jose, which strengthened in size on Sunday as the storm traveled north and offshore of North Carolina. While most waves made a madcap steamroll through the south-facing breaks of the Outer Banks, Brett Barley did find the above diamond in the rough, filmed by Jeffrey O’Neil. And boy, was it a gem.
“Sometimes Hurricane swells can be all about novelty waves on the East Coast, due to the winds dealt by the approaching storms,” Brett told us. “This was the best novelty wave I’ve ever gotten. It took a few hundred duckdives to get it, though. The sandbar couldn’t handle any swell, so it was constantly washing through, and once in a while, a good one would hold off. Really lucked out to find one. It was one of those ‘It’s so close to being epic’ kind of days due to the wash-throughs.”
“Saturday was the smallest day of this Jose swell, and I’d imagine that bar will be gone once Jose passes by,” Brett says. “It was barely hanging together yesterday, so anyone who scored a few is stoked.
“Also, I need to hit the gym. My legs were so toasted by the fourth turn, I couldn’t even properly finish off the fifth one.”