A Text Message from the World Masters

No email hav 2 txt, sorry. I told you things were gonna get more serious come rounds 4 and 5, and they sure did. I even sat on my good Brazilian friend JoJo so I could get third instead of fourth in a heat today…I felt dirty.

Buzzy Kerbox got three interferences in the Grand Masters. Not that the ever smiling Kerbox was being an ass, it’s just the grand masters are taking every heat as serious as if it was for a world title. And that 25,000 for first they’re giving away is more than the total purse of a lot of their events from back in the day. Nightly dinner discussions--amongst themselves--always include who was getting over scored or under scored or how the fuck are they letting him ride a paddle board in this contest.
Comforting to see the passion in their eyes and know it never goes away.

Each quarter final man on man heat tmrw morning is going to feature legends of our sport competing like they are kids again– that’s about as cool as it gets.

In the masters division today, the Brazilians had their way with everyone, again. As they all are surfing better than when they left the tour on these wonderful littlegrovel boards that fit the conditions to a “t.” They now fill the top 6 spots for the quarter finals. Only Nathan “Noodles” Webster qualifying 7th and myself in 8th made it to the final day.

Me, I am very fortunate to still be going, as after I failed to perform at all in rounds four and five, by virtue of my two earlier heat wins, I qualified over Curren, Occy, Egan, and Kaipo even though we tied on total points…I’m not sure how to take that. I’m stoked for the extra grand in prizemoney for diapers and a chance at 25,000. But Curren and Occy are the two best non aerial surfers of all time. I’m just Shea…wish me luck tmrw, please. These Bsazilians mean business and they have a score to settle.