You Did It! EOS Will Live!

Surf History Archive Saved!

A couple weeks back, coffers dangerously empty at the non-profit Encyclopedia of Surfing, Matt Warshaw, the site’s founder and human repository of all surf knowledge, went on a fundraising bender. A red-alert, all-hands-on-deck t[...]

Mike Hynson: Rebel Rebel

Mike Hynson: Rebel Rebel

Mike Hynson was the second-most polarizing 1960s surfer, behind Mickey Dora. Those who would kneel before Hynson and kiss the ring on his well-manicured hand were roughly equal in number to those who would've liked to see his privi[...]

Backdoor: What’s In A Name?

Backdoor: What’s In A Name?

Backdoor. Gotta be wrong on this one, but at the moment, I can't think of another break where the right off the peak has a different name than the left. Pipeline, Backdoor. Sometimes Backdoor Pipe, but usually just Backdoor. Same break[...]

Sandy Beach: The Paralyzer

Sandy Beach: The Paralyzer

It still happens, on occasion, that I find myself on a beach somewhere, board in hand, trunks or wetsuit put on front-side facing front, looking out to some shapely not-too-crowded waves. My focus at this point goes full laser. I will [...]

The Soul of Tandem

The Soul of Tandem

Off the top of my head, I can't think of a single Golden Age R&B heavyweight who didn't get their start in the church. Little Richard, James Brown, Sam Cook, Otis Redding, Marvin Gaye, Al Green, Isaac Hayes--all raised their sweet[...]

Eve Does Five Summer Stories

Eve Does Five Summer Stories

Eve Babitz is the 20-year-old Los Angeles ingénue you see above, playing state-of-nature chess in 1963 with French artist Marcel Duchamp. Babitz was many things in the '60s and '70s. Goddaughter to composer Igor Stravinsky. Laughing s[...]