November Surfing in Portugal: Conditions and Top Spots

It’s no secret that Portugal is Europe’s premier surfing destination; with tons of different waves and setups along the 586 miles of coastline exposed to Atlantic swells, the small country packs a big punch. Nazaré alone has cemented Portugal’s super legit surf status in the minds of billions of people around the world. The nearly 100-foot waves go so viral across the internet that they even infiltrate the algorithms of mainstream folks, you know, non-surfers.

For those of us who eat, sleep, and breathe the salty life, we know that Portugal is much more than just the giant waves of Nazaré. The country is blessed with year-round waves of all shapes and sizes and we believe that November is one of the best months to surf in Portugal. 

Prime Conditions

While the winter surfing season in Portugal technically starts in October, it can be variable and slow at first. By November, chances are high that the North Atlantic will be roaring, and wave heights will be solid for the majority of the month. While the minute details of the weather are unpredictable from a distance, and many variables have to come together for excellent surf, the general trends are favorable for good to (possibly) epic surf in November.

Long period groundswells are common, that light up the reefs and points, as well as shorter-to-mid period swells from the North and South Atlantic that create combo swells that light up the many beach breaks. Sometimes all the stars align for magic conditions, you know, long period swells, sunny skies, and light winds, the stuff you see in your dreams. November is perhaps the best month for this to happen. Sometimes, these conditions can even hold for multiple swells and light up the whole country from Porto (and beyond) in Northern Portugal through Ericeira, Peniche, Nazaré, and Lisbon, all the way to the Algarve in Southern Portugal. 

In November, average surf heights for well-exposed breaks are in the 6–10-foot range, with an average air temperature of about 65°F and an average water temperature of 62°F. Add in a high chance for favorable winds, and it all starts to sound pretty damn good. 

Best Surf Spots

Cabedelo

The jetty at Cabedelo has been home to plenty of contests over the years, including a couple of WCT events. And all for a very good reason: consistency. Though classic Cabedelo—when the rights are roping alongside the jetty, and the rip pulls you back out exactly where you need to be—doesn’t happen every day, November is a great time to score as this stretch of beach faces into anything the North Atlantic can dish up.

The key factor for perfection is sand. There needs to be at least one big winter-type storm to move the sand into its proper place next to the jetty. When it’s on, the right is a mind-bogglingly perfect performance wave with a tube section on the takeoff, and the left into the jetty is shorter, though equally good. So if you’re going in November, the chances are good that a big storm has groomed the sand for Cabedelo to go off. 

Supertubos

Located on the shores of Peniche in Western Portugal is the beloved Supertubos. It has played host to the MEO Portugal Pro for several years and is the stomping ground for some of the country’s best tube riders. With a name like that, go figure.

Make no mistake: Supertubos is one of the best waves in Europe. There’s one main peak with a super-fast (though makeable) left, a somewhat shorter right, and one other peak down the beach that’s not quite as perfect but still way better than your average day at Huntington Pier. November is a great month as combo swells and light winds can let this notorious beachie do its thing and churn up grinding tubos. If it’s pumping, bring your A-game and go-to board for threading super fast and hollow barrels.

Baleal

A couple of miles north of Peniche is the sandy little island village of Baleal. It’s not really a big town, but it’s been a big destination for traveling surfers for more than 30 years—especially when the reefs around Ericeira are blown out with north or south winds. Baleal is an island, so there’s almost always a protected beach, and this is one of the best areas for beginners so it’s no surprise that there are many learn-to-surf camps located here. 

With the mellow left reef break of Lagide just north of town, followed by miles of open beachbreak, the area can handle a lot of surfers and not feel too crowded. There’s even a protected bay south of town with a beach break that’s sheltered from north winds (and huge swells). You won’t usually find world-class barrels in Baleal, for that you’d go to Supertubos or Carcavelos, but it can be a great place to learn and progress. 

Carcavelos

The standard opinion of Carcavelos can be summed up by one local: “She is dirty, but she’s so good.” Indeed, Portugal’s first-surfed beachbreak, 15 minutes outside Lisbon, has its sewage problems, especially in wintertime when it’s really cranking. 

 But when it’s good, the sand-bottom barrels can be worth the risk. Put it this way: Portuguese surf star Tiago Pires rates the tubes at 6-foot Carcavelos as some of the best in the country. And despite the fact that they may look unmakeable when you take off, if you hold a high line and hang tight, you’re looking at an 85 percent success rate. Last year the beach was home to Capitulo Perfeito (“Perfect Chapter” in English) an invite-only barrel competition that featured the likes of Rob Machado, Nathan Florence, Aritz Aranburu, Nic Von Rupp, Mikey February, William Aliotti, Miguel Blanco, and some of the best tube hounds from Portugal and beyond. 

The beach is about a half-mile long, flanked on the western end by a flat rock reef and on the east by Forte Sao Juliao da Barra. The area just next to the fort is called “the zone” and has always been ground zero for Portugal’s urban surf culture—the peaks at this end of the beach are more localized and contested than the ones farther west.

Like other beach breaks in Portugal, the break here is highly dependent on shifting sandbanks, which need at least one solid swell to break up the flat bottom that accumulates over the summertime flatness. So yes, November is a good time to score Carcavelos. The water chills a bit, and the waves march in around the corner, peaking up and down the hard-packed sandbars, allowing city surfers to get a taste of juice without having to drive an hour north. 

Coxos

Coxos is the crown jewel of Portugal—Europe’s best right. It’s ironic, actually, because it was one of the last “discoveries” in the Ericiera area. A small group of surfers managed to keep it secret for years until, in the mid-’80s, guys like Nick Uricchio managed to follow ’em down the farmer’s track and were absolutely blown away by what they saw. It was only a matter of time till word got out, and though there are not really any contests at Coxos, it’s very rare to strike it good and uncrowded. 

The wave—which is like a reef/point break—breaks along a shallow rock shelf into a very small bay. Swells muscle their way in from deep water just offshore and form into these fast-moving symmetrical right walls that seem to concentrate all their power into the base of the wave rather than the lip, similar to many Hawaiian waves. There’s no easy entry at Coxos: You’ve got to paddle like mad, get to your feet, and start driving; otherwise, you’ll get sucked over and—you guessed it—end up on the reef. If you do it right, though, it’s the best barrel in Europe. 

Foz de Lizandro

If you don’t feel like battling the crowds or the urchins at one of Ericeira’s reef breaks, or if the swell is small, Foz can offer up fun, little peaks that are similar to any average California beach break — some days good, some days bad, depending on the shifting sandbanks. There’s a river mouth at the south end that opens up in winter and can make a damn fine left in front of the rocks. Toward the middle of the beach, there are assorted peaks that pop up as the tide, which is pretty extreme here, goes in and out. 

The scene on the beach is pretty classic, as this is the closest big stretch of sand to Ericeira. There’s beach volleyball, kids playing, adults sun tanning with a passion, and a bar right there, in case all that ogling and surfing renders you a little, well, parched. It’s definitely not a bad place to hang on a Sunday afternoon.

What To Pack

While there are plenty of fine shapers, surf shops, and rental options all throughout Portugal, we recommend bringing your own boards—several, in fact—if you really plan on sampling the vast array of waves there are on offer. If your goal is to chase big waves, then you’d want to pack as if you’re going to the North Shore of Hawaii—bring some big boards, brah! Unlike Hawaii, you’re going to need a wetsuit, ideally two so you can always have a dry one at the ready. If you’re just planning on keeping it mellow and catching some fun-sized waves, then a single board should do you fine, or you could even just rent while you are there based on the conditions. Here’s our guide to a well-rounded packing list.

Best Travel Surfboard Bag

When traveling within Europe, it’s safe to say you’ll be navigating to and from the airport and train stations to your lodging while on concrete and had surfaces that make taking a wheelie bag the obvious choice. If you were going deep into uncharted and off-road areas, the wheels don’t do much, but if you’re running to catch a bus, train, or plane, being able to pull your coffin bag is a lifesaver. That’s why we recommend the DB Surf Pro Coffin 7’6 to haul 3–4 of your favorite boards in style, ease, and peace of mind. The peace of mind comes from knowing you’re backs are well protected and that any pesky gate agent won’t be able to give you the stink eye for dragging in some unsightly coffin bag.

Surfboards

Ok, so this is a highly subjective issue; everyone has their own tastes when it comes to boards—especially when it comes to traveling. Most people (myself included) feel hesitant to bring their most prized boards across the world because airlines don’t always have the best track record (we will have a follow-up guide on best practices when traveling with boards). Best bet is to pack a board that you can trust and, if need be, easily replace, so here goes. 

Small: Feb’s Fish or similar
Yep, Mikey’s brand-new fish is on the list because you’re gonna want something small that’s versatile. Mikey makes it work in everything from mushy CA surf to pumping Uluwatunot, saying you can do the same, but the board works. Pro traveler Kepa Acero once said he always travels with a board that’s around 5’6 (with good volume) because they’re fun when you’re waiting for the swell to pick up, and they’re very hard to break. Bonus points that the spearfish has removable fins and is easier to get your hands on than, say, a Squit Fish from Ryan Burch. 

Medium: Your go-to shortboard
Whatever your main squeeze is, you’re going to want to bring it along because, chances are, the waves could be really good (or at least really fun) and perfect to put your daily driver shortboard to work. Something in that ~5’10 to 6’ish range with a bit of rocker that isn’t afraid of a steep drop and hollow wave. Options are endless … 

Large: Mid-length or step-up 
Again, this really depends on what you’re after; large, in this case, could mean something for big waves or something with enough foam to handle mushy days, like a good mid-length. Or, maybe you have something that can do both, like a versatile board in the 7’2-7’6 range. Good options would be along the lines of a CI Mid, Simon Jones Massive, Album Vesper, or Ryan Lovelace FM, to name a few.

Wetsuit

Obviously, the easiest thing would be to just bring one suit, but the most prepared move would be to have two—if you have the space. If you can only bring one, we suggest a 3mm or a 4/3mm. If you run hot and have a new 3/2, you’ll likely be fine. But if you tend to get chilly, and your 3/2 is busted and full of holes, then you may want to play it safe and bring a bit extra rubber. Options include a Patagonia R2, Florence 3mm, NeedEssentials 4/3, etc.

In conclusion, the best thing to prep for any trip is to check the forecasts in the days leading up to your trip. If in doubt, ask your lodging accommodations or any local friends for more on the ground info. Worst case scenario is that your forget something and then have to support a local surf shop–which isn’t that bad at all. Safe travels amigos.