What did your traveling quiver looking like?
I brought four twin fins and a longboard: a 9’4" single-fin cruiser with a flat deck; a 5’9” diamond tail channel bottom; a 6’1” twin fin that Simon [Jones, of Morning of the Earth Surfboards] made for Bells and Winki and longer point breaks; a 5’7” glass-in twin fin that was super fun; and my main go-to board, which was a 5’7” channel bottom twin fin that I surfed nearly every day. I broke it in South Australia, unfortunately. Simon shipped over another one to Perth and we were able to pick it up on our way through. But I ended up breaking that one too on my first surf when we got to Red Bluff.
You’re becoming known for charging hollow waves on a twin fin. What draws you to riding a twinnie over a standard thruster?
I haven’t ridden a thruster in such a long time now. From when I first got on one, twinnies just gave me a different feeling that I really enjoyed and appreciated. The first twin fin I got was a novelty board I wanted to ride during the summer. But then Kirra was all time pumping and I had that in the car, so I surfed that and had some amazing waves. Not longer after that I went over to Fiji and I surfed the twin fin the whole time at Cloudbreak. After that I was fully converted. This trip, I rode twin fins the whole time, except for the few times I took out the longboard.
Did get away from the surf at all to see different parts of the country?
Yeah, we had so many good waves that we were almost keen to get away from the ocean for a few weeks. We ended up driving 10,000 kilometers in the last 14 days on the way home through the Kimberlys- which are crazy beautiful and gorgeous. It was great seeing the Gibb River Crossing with its dark red dirt and loads of kangaroos, crocodiles and everything else.
Did you hit any roadblocks along the way? I’m sure the car stalled out a couple times.
Yeah, there were a few hiccups. When we crossed the quarantine border from south Australia to WA, they took all of our food apart from some crackers. So we had to pick up supplies, but the nearest town was 700km away. We finally got there and we rolled into the petrol station and the car just made this horrible noise. Neither one of us is mechanically minded, but luckily there was a mechanic just down the road. So we pushed the car over there, but they didn’t have the part we need so we had to make it to Perth to buy the equipment. Actually the car broke down the day after we got home and had finished our trip [laughs]. It wouldn’t turn on
But when you’re on the road, nothing really becomes a chore. It just becomes everyday living. Throughout all that I wasn’t really bummed, because it was all part of the adventure in a way. When shit happened, we’d just laugh about it and scratch our heads, figuring it would end up being a funny story one day.