Possibly the Most Important Surf Film of Our Lifetimes
This video came out a few weeks back, and I can’t believe it just now came across our screens. I don’t know what to say. Lifetime achievement awards for Most Novel Approach to Incredibly Fun Waves for Everyone Involved.
Imagine the commitment and courage and vision it takes to see a head-high wave peak up like that and think: Just gonna pop to my knees and shins on this soft top here. Here’s a little barrel section: time for a literal layback into the pocket. Ride backward, prone, trimming along a near-perfect point wall? That’s some avant-garde shit, right there. The shame of not thinking of it first.
And to pair it with some heavy-ass metal. It’s…it’s genius.