"I have been driving up and down this stretch of coastline for decades now and when you get moments like this, you realize how fickle a wave can be," says Josh Mulcoy, slotted here along the cold fringes of the Pacific Northwest. "Even when the forecast looks good, I never believe it until I am actually on the beach and it's firing. This was the best I have seen this spot and there was no one around, which was a bit shocking. It seems like it has become way more popular for surfers to adventure to cold places. I still remember when I first started going to Alaska and the ticket agent asking me, 'Why would you go to Alaska to go surf? Why not Hawaii or Southern California?' You don't get those questions anymore; I think people are accustomed to surfers going just about anywhere in the world now."
[This originally appeared as the "Perfect Day" feature in our "Nothing is Normal" issue, now available on newsstands or wherever you subscribe to SURFER magazine.]