"At home, we're always having to adapt to mother nature, be it hurricanes or volcanoes," says 21-year-old Big Island native Shayden Pacarro, pictured here in a Tahitian cavern. "So I just try to remember that every wave is a blessing, and this one was such a beautiful wave. I went to Tahiti for my birthday and ended up staying there for a month, and this wave [pictured] was the third swell of my trip. All the locals were getting amazing waves that day, and I remember catching a couple that were just a little too deep and I had to paddle around the lagoon a few times. I told myself to relax and catch the right wave and I ended up lucking out. The next day I was planning on flying back to Hawaii, so this was actually one of the last waves I caught there."
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