This is the view that came with the room…free of charge
It keeps getting better. Light winds and steady swell. Bend after bend of glassy, empty possibilities. We stop and squeeze through holes in concrete walls where tiny communities live within the unfinished mortar and rebar. We expect problems — you know, like the stink-eye and fingers pointing us back to where we came from. But all we get are big smiles and points in the other direction.
"Bonjour," they say. "Good wave today."
Yep. Good wave today. And yesterday. And tomorrow, I'm sure too. And here's the kicker: With so many kinks in the coastline, this place is a mobile wave pool. When the swells are still spinning high in the Atlantic all you do is head out and find a nook with some northern exposure. As the swell tacks downward, go and check that spot that was flat yesterday, 'cause it's probably super fun today. This all can be done along a few miles of coastline. I mean, we've barley burned a half tank of gas in the rental.
And yesterday, we didn't even need to turn the truck on. Just out front of the hotel that pretty firing point break that I mentioned needed a different direction in the last update, yeah, it started firing. Thing is, it morphed into a right bowl and, just down the way a bit, a left wedge. Alek and Johnny went to work on the rights while Nate popped off of left after left. Nate Lawrence was running back and forth, trying not to miss the action and I was chasing him around, filming over his shoulders.
All the while, people keep showing up to watch. Some surf every day and are stoked to have us in town. Others are people here on business just wandering outside to catch a glimpse of our production. Those that surf tell us about other spots we've yet to check out. There is, I'm sure, no way that we can possibly surf everything…you'll need a month for that.
But it won't take long to at least check it out. Stay tuned.
Johnny Craft, bomb of the afternoon