EDITOR’S NOTE: This interview takes place in the {{{Monterey}}} Community Hospital while Justen Allport was recovering from the injuries he received from a March 9th tow-in session at {{{Ghost}}} Trees.

Justen was just a little spaced out due to heavy hospital-induced narcoticusage. He is in pain, and said right now on a pain-scale to 10 he’sabout a 4. I’d be at about a 9.5. He is bandaged and sewn up all theway to his knee. His leg is snapped in 4 places. Too many stitches for asurfer to count. He was semi-dabbling on the internet and had some timeto talk with me. They did add a steel rod to his left leg yesterday,which he seems to be handling well.

SURFING: So, Justen, you pretty much know that you’re internationallyfamous now.

Justen Allport: (with a light semi-bashful laugh) OK… I mean…(kinda wipes his face like trying to think straight on 10 beers)

SURFING: From what I heard, you were getting spit out of a huge barrel.

Justen Allport: (again… semi-bashful laugh) Awww… that’s what I hear. Idon’t know if it was a barrel.

SURFING: Fifty people on the cliff said you were shacked? Were you or what?

Justen Allport: I don’t remember getting a barrel. I was seeing the lip throwingout above me, but it was more of a pocket ride…

SURFING: Well… the dimensions out there were hard to judge from thebeach. So, what was the last thing that went through your mind rightbefore you got hurt?

Justen Allport: I was just trying to make it. I don’t really remember much.

SURFING: What what was the wipeout like? Were you under long?

Justen Allport: I just remember hitting the water – I thought that I was in thechannel and then the wave kinda started pushing me from behind. I felland my foot was stuck in the strap. My body was pivoting all overunderwater and my board was just doing whatever it wanted with my footattached. Its a tow-board with a 30 pound weight. My foot finally gotout of the foot-stap and when I was kicking to the surface, I could feelmy left leg flopping the opposite way I kicked, like it wasn’t attached.

SURFING: Heavy. Then what happened?

Justen Allport: Skindog was right there on the Ski. I said a few times, “My leg is broken, my leg is broken!” I climbed on the sled and we jammed tosafer water. Skindog was going fast, and I was laying on the sled inback. I could feel my leg bouncing independently on the water like itwasn’t even attached. It was real painful. I told him to slow down, and Itried to cradle the one leg by slipping my other leg under it to supportit.

SURFING: What type of footstrap were you using?

Justen Allport: I was borrowing one of Skindog’s boards, and I wasn’t wearing anybooties. It made the straps a little too big… my foot popped out ofthem a few times and I almost ate shit. I was like, “Skinny, can wetighten these straps?” He offered me his other board, which had abungee cord that went around your heel. It worked great ’til I fell.

SURFING: How did you get to the hospital? Isn’t it a 30 minute jetskiride to the boat launch?

Justen Allport: Skindog took me into this cove where a few other Skis pulled upand helped us. There were a few local surfers on the beach, {{{Aspen}}} andJames Roberts. Aspen happened to have a stretcher of all things inhis van. It took 5 guys to get me from the Jet Ski-sled into Aspen’s van,who drove me up the hill to the hospital.

SURFING: Wow. It sounds like a good group to get rescued by.

Justen Allport: Yeah, I’m very thankful for those guys. People have been stopping by wishingme well. The local surfers are real nice here.

SURFING: Well, get better. There’s alot of people out there right now hopingyour OK.

Justen Allport: Thanks, mate. I just wanna go home to my wife now.

For a photo gallery of the latest waves from Ghost Trees, CLICK HERE

Also, please visit Wayne Kelly’s website by clicking here.