And Now, A Few Words From Carissa Moore

Carissa Moore // 18 // Honolulu, HI:

I surfed Jaws for the first time in January and I really liked it. It's an adrenaline rush you can get nowhere else. I came home all jazzed up, I was like, "Dad, I want to do that again. I want to ride some bigger waves!" and my dad was like, "Probably stick to the tour for a few more years, then you can get into the big-wave stuff."

I got there on the biggest day and I actually wasn't planning on surfing. Then the swell wasn't as big as predicted and I was sitting on the boat, and I was like, "This is really lame if I just sit here and don't even try." And Myles [Padaca, coach] wasn't there — he was going to try and fly over the next day and tow me in on a few — but I ended up towing in with a couple of the boys that were there. They offered and were super cool.

It's weird because we don't have any bigger, powerful waves on tour right now. It's all beachbreaks. So it is hard to find that balance, because I should be practicing and cross-training in smaller stuff to prepare for the events.

As for Pipe, I've been trying to get out there more and more. I always go out with Myles or Pancho [Sullivan]. I pretty much don't go out without somebody — I'm a baby in that way. It's just good to have someone who knows the other people in the lineup and who has respect already.

It's funny, I definitely feel strong and comfortable at home, and I love big-wave surfing and competing on the North Shore, but the last couple of years that I've competed there — for example at Haleiwa and at Sunset — I haven't placed that well.

I think I want to try to enroll in some online classes in the next year or two. I really would like to study education, because after surfing I would love to be a teacher. I'd probably teach kindergarten or elementary school because I just love younger kids. I love being around that type of energy. Sharing knowledge with them would be super sweet.

Photo by Steve Sherman