In The Eye Of Hurricane Irene

Pulling into a quick swell on the East Coast thanks to Irene

We didn’t think it was gonna happen. For three days the swell pulsed and waned, pulsed and waned, hovering in the waist-high range even as the storm seemed dead off the coast of Hatteras. Each morning surfers paddled out, picking off peaks, hoping for that first taste of tropical juice. On Wednesday afternoon, the first series of long lines seemed to announce Irene’s arrival as VB legend Bob Holland Sr. steered his 6’8″ across the beach at Barnes St. But the next monring, when Damien Hobgood made his first appearance, it was back to waist high and a lot of waiting, a lull that continued through Friday when he and his brother {{{CJ}}} journeyed further south for a session along more anonymous sandbars where the deeper water magnified the surf to head high. Then, on Saturday, it happened. As town trickled along, the first big sets struck Rodanthe Pier at 11:00 o’clock for an all-star crew that included the twins, Aamion Goodwin and, of course, the local favorites Noah Snyder, Jesse Hines, Jeff Myers and about the whole state of Virginia, half of Florida. Although it stayed fickle, only cooperating for a few hours at a time, the swell held all the way through Sunday, allowing still more visitors to get their fill and leave satiated as Monday the surf dropped back down to chest, then waist, then nothing. Irene’s gone now. But these photos serve as a reminder of what she left, and what the next season’s storm has in store.