Sharing my journey – I went for my first surf a couple days ago. It was the funnest thing in the world. Funny thing is… i couldn't get to my feet. So I just layed there. It was about knee high and the drop was.. well there was none but it felt like I was dropping into 10ft teahupoo. I finished the wave and I was so stoked I let out a hoot and claimed it and high fived kita. 5 mins later I was on the beach and started to think about what I actually did and started comparing it to what I used to be like or what everybody else was doing out there… and started to question why cant i….this I found started to ruin my experience and change how I really felt. It made me realise that ……self improvement is necessary but to focus on camparison of what used to be, what others can do or why you're not good enough is detrimental to the now; negative emotion in your self will hinder improvement and happiness. Simple statement …. challenging to practice

A photo posted by Owen Wright (@owright) on

As seen above in the Instagram post above, Owen Wright just had his first surf since sustaining a severe concussion at Pipeline last winter. Head injuries are not to be taken the least bit lightly and the road to recovery seems like it could end up being long and sometimes bumpy for Owen. But Owen’s inherent determination coupled with the positivity displayed above leads us to believe that the big man will come back strong and healthy someday. Not a matter of if, only a matter of when.