Eddie ESPN

Tonight at 8:00 pm eastern, 5:00 pacific, Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau premiers on ESPN. I was lucky enough to receive an early copy and will not provide any spoilers (Eddie dies in a mythical way at the end) but will say that it is totally worth watching. The non-surf world rarely gets surf right but, thankfully, this film was made in family. It was directed by Sam George. And I know that ol' Sam is, sometimes, the butt of jokes for his hyperbole and his gold hoop earring. But he should not be. His hair is amazing, he married Kiani from North Shore and he gave me my start in surf writing. Yes, Sam George commissioned my very first piece so many years ago. What a day that was! I was so young, so green, nowhere near the decadent monster I have become. But that is a story for another time. Today belongs to Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau. It is a fine film. The interviews are insightful, the archival footage compelling, the narrative well-done. It is Sam George's finest work since telling Chas Smith to go forth and conquer. Watch and you will agree. —Chas Smith