Happiness only real when shared.
That’s a quote from the best-selling book Into The Wild. It’s also wrong — you really going to take philosophy lessons from someone who can’t even insert a simple verb into what should be a six word sentence? So yeah, bullshit. Especially when it comes to surfing.
Sure, surfing with friends — sharing that happiness with them — is great. You get to talk and laugh and sometimes, if you’re emotionally damaged, compliment that last air they did with just the perfect amount of insecure backhandedness — pretty high, for you. Isn’t that fun (for you)?
It is (for you). But there’s something about surfing alone (for me). Something very raw about it, something very real. One person, alone with their thoughts, and nature, alone with its never predictable desire. There are no distractions. And because there are no distractions, the level of connection between man and nature intensifies. If a bird sings, you’ll hear it. If a dolphin emerges, you’ll admire it. When a wave breaks, you become a part of it. It needs you and you need it — you will literally become a functional part of the sea.
Just kidding! Did you really just think you were a functional part of the sea? What an idiot! Surfing alone is only fun because you get to catch every wave. Here’s Griffin Colapinto, with a full portion of peak and nobody to share it with. It’s a very real form of happiness.