All photos by Peter Taras
This just happened.....
Actually, no it did not. Well, at least not in Southern California. Meaning, roping North West swells parading to the beat of a hungry surf starved army’s drum. I’m no meteorologist, but this weather pattern is fucked. It’s like Portland down here, except with less hair dye, grunge (except Andrew Doheny), affordable rent, etc. Oh, woe is me! Is this El Nino? La Nina? Pineapple or Arctic Express? All I know is that the jet stream continues to rip through our state, leaving us on edge, itching for a barrel or two. We sit shivering in parking lots staring wide-eyed at crappy surf conditions, wondering what Filipe would do out there, and maybe, for just 3 seconds, we could channel our inner Hurley surf school mantra. It’s colder than a witches tit. We are such pussies.
Have you been living the Netflix life? I have. How about that WestWorld series?!
Are you cheating on surfing with other board sports? Dare I say, batting for the snow team?
This has me surf-crazed, which makes me think about my approach for the next swell. What if I binge? What if I just surf for 48 hours straight and get all the good surf out of my system. That is…if the surf stays good for that long? Possible maybe, with some good motivation, and some tools that I wouldn’t associate myself with on the normal day to day:
-4/3 wetsuit with booties.
-3 sessions a day. Each one 2 hours long.
-A nice, floaty, high volume board to save paddle strength. (Matt Biolos, you owe me my Jewish brethren)
-Warm clothes by whichever company wants to send me a care package. I’ll tag you on Tinder.
-Kolohe Andino’s sprinter van with inspirational quotes, heavy shredding pics, and photos of Chris Burkard jumping into frozen lakes hung all around me.
Some of you might be able to make this happen with far less. Some of you might just surf all day anyways. But the motto is this: “Surf your ass off”. Because the way this winter has been shaping up, who knows how long these flat spells will last. Oh, and in the meantime, check out this gallery I shot from the last couple of years when the surf was actually good. Remember that? -Peter Taras