Sure sure, wave pools. But what if you could recreate the frankenstein wedge that Lee Wilson and Jay Davies found somewhere in Indo? If a perfect barrel doesn’t excite you anymore, maybe mechanical backwash will?
“This wave was such a trip,” said Lee when we asked him about surfing it. “We rocked up and I was so iffy about it. We mind-surfed a few waves, and then we were out there. I've never surfed a wave like this in my life. We were surfing a right-hander with another right-hander coming at us directly from the shore. The whole structure of it all was so abstract. Jay got a real quick reading on it, especially for punts. I tried one punt and one punt only — I got so whiplashed. I ended up practicing my turns and hunting the barrel for the rest of the day. Oh, and I watched Jay do the biggest airs I've ever seen in real life.”