As much as big-wave riding is a part of surfing’s DNA, for Average Joe’s the sight of a life vest-donning hellman hurtling down the face of a massive wall of water atop a narrow, stretched out rhino chaser can be hard to identify with. As much as we may conflate our love of wave riding with our desire to charge, few of us are eager or willing to try and conquer the ocean’s most terrifying setups.

Count Tom Lowe among those few. Not only has the Cornish surfer demonstrated an eagerness to test his mettle in harrowing and inhospitable wave zones, he’s proven unwaveringly resilient. In the new short “Mordros”, Lowe recounts his pioneering efforts at a truly frightening stretch of Irish reef called Mullaghmore. Tribulations–including near-drownings and broken bones–led to triumph: the wave of Lowe’s life. 

Click play to get a glimpse inside the mind of a distinctively headstrong (and possibly crazy) surfer. 

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