“Aloha, malihini. Welcome stranger, to the Hawaiian port of Honolulu, on the island of Oahu.” So begins your journey back in time to Waikiki Beach with “Riding The Crest,” a film produced by American filmmaker Frederic Ullman Jr. in the 1930s. It was a time when vocabulary used to describe islanders and watersports, like outrigger canoeing and surfing, were uninformed and casually racist at best (“The sports of the people reflect their temperament: simple, direct, and unencumbered by the frills and frivolities of more civilized contests”). Which makes the point when the narrator introduces “surfboarding” at the 3:04 mark a mix of culturally intriguing and contextually laughable (Definition: “The gentle art of striding a streamlined ironing board while a breaker pushes you from the bay to the beach in nothing flat.” Another line: “It takes more than skill to be a sportsman of the surf; it takes blood that tingles at the thunder of a rolling feather of foam”). At 5:44, a bikini-clad beginner takes a lesson on land from two very willing beachboys, then it’s back to the water for more ironing-board riding. Imagine watching this reel for the first time from the mainland, likely your introduction to surfing back then. The magic of a new world in the ocean, and harnessing the means to tame it, is easy to see.