Surely you remember this clip of Owl Chapman from Surfers: The Movie, a 1990 documentary featuring some surf luminaries opining about, well, anything.
The highlight of the whole film is Chapman’s bit here. One of the best clips from any surf movie ever, Chapman just telling everybody to chill out a little bit, and to share a wave.
It’s a nugget of surf history gold, dug up and polished just for you, dear reader, on this, Owl’s 68th birthday.
Pull up a chair and soak in his wisdom.