Since then, the island was home to only Hawaiian natives, and by 1916, Aubrey Robinson, a descendent of the original buyer, closed the land off entirely to visitors.

For over 100 years, Ni’ihau – which is only 17 miles off the coast of Kauai – has been a hermetic member of the Hawaiian chain. That is, until now.

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Per Backpacking:

“Now, carefully controlled day tours — typically via helicopter — are being offered in limited numbers. These visits focus on nature, wildlife and cultural respect, rather than commercial development. Overnight stays and independent travel remain prohibited.”

With Ni’ihau and other land on Kauai, the Robinson’s are the largest land owners in Hawaii. More than Oracle’s Larry Ellison and Meta’s Mark Zuckerberg.

Related: Mark Zuckerberg’s $500M Superyacht Cruises Hawaii (Video)

As for the tours, it appears they have been going for a handful of years to the “Forbidden Island.” One tour group, which has reviews dating back a handful of years, offers:

“1/2 day tours to Niihau Island. Trip includes helicopter flight from the west side of Kauai to Niihau island, an aerial tour of the island, and about 3 hours on the beach to swim, snorkel and beachcomb.”

And this experience is truly a look into the past, with strict restrictions still held by the Robinson family. For instance, per a report from Business Insider:

“The ‘Forbidden Island’ has no WiFi, running water, or electricity outside of solar panels — locals wash their clothes in streams and light their homes with kerosene lamps. There are no cars and just one truck. Most travel is done by horse or bicycle. It remains the only placeon Earth where the Native Hawaiian language is still the primary language spoken.

“Vices like drinking and drug-use are punishable by permanent exile. Visitors, even family members of those living there, are allowed on only at the Robinsons' permission.”

So, if you go, better be on your best behavior.

Related: Tourists Blasted for Harassing Sea Turtle in Hawaii (Video)

That’s because, the ribbon-like species is a deep-sea dweller, occupying one of the least explored regions of the ocean, the mesopelagic zone, around 1,000 meters deep.

But recently, in Cabo San Lucas in Baja, Mexico, not one, but two, oarfish washed ashore as a group of tourists were strolling the beach. Rare, indeed. See below.

The video description reads:

“A beach day in Cabo took an unexpected turn when two sisters spotted something strange flashing in the distance. At first they thought it couldn’t be real.

“As they got closer, they realized the creatures struggling in the shallow water were oarfish, a rare deep-sea species that almost never appears near the surface. One of the sisters quickly jumped in to help, working with people on the beach to push the fish back toward deeper water.

“But the moment got even stranger. Just as they finished helping the first one, they spotted another oarfish near the shore. Seeing even one is extremely rare. Seeing two in the same place is almost unheard of.

“Afterward, they learned there have only been a handful of sightings along that coastline over the past few hundred years. While some people call them ‘doomsday fish,’ scientists say there’s no evidence they’re linked to earthquakes or tsunamis.”

Related: 10ft “Doomsday Fish” Washes Ashore, Cursing San Diego Surf Town

The oarfish has long been a sign of natural disasters, sparking fears in those who spot them washing ashore. For example, according to Ocean Conservancy:

“The legend is that if you see an oarfish, it is a warning sign from higher powers that disasters such as earthquakes are soon to occur…before Japan’s 2011 earthquake (one of the most catastrophic in history) a total of 20 oarfish washed ashore.”

Yet, no earthquake or tsunami followed this sighting in Cabo; just a good story.

Related: The Biggest Tsunami Ever Recorded: Inside the 1,720-Foot Wave (Video)

Nazaré, Portugal has seen some moments. Some scary, victory at sea moments. Not many picture-perfect, black-diamond liquid mountain days. But still, some action. And recently, there was a pulse of swell, with many international big wave surfers descending upon the tiny Portuguese fishing village, which hosts the world’s biggest waves.

During the session, Spanish surfer Alberto Truncer dropped into a bomb, towed in by Dino Carmo, and then got swallowed in one of the most dramatic wipeouts of all time. Check it out below.

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“One of the gnarliest things I’ve seen at Nazaré just went down today,” longtime Nazaré photographer Helio Antonio captioned. “@alberto_truncerr got absolutely obliterated…then rescued on the infamous rocks by the legend himself, @dinocarmo.”

Quickly, the clip began making the rounds. Many of the world’s best big wave chargers commented; many with the mouth-open, appalled emoji.

Related: 95-Foot Wave Surfed at Nazaré; New World Record? (Video)

Following the wipeout, Truncer spoke with Diario Sur:

“It was pitch black. It knocked me to the bottom, even though it's quite deep, and I hit the sand. It's one of the worst wipeouts I've ever had. The lip of the wave actually hit me right on top of me, at the most critical point of the wave. When I was down there, I opened my eyes and I think two waves crashed over me without me coming up for air.”

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Truncer yanked his inflation vest. But by the time he reached the surface, he was nearing the treacherous rocks on the inside. Luckily, a jet ski picked him up just in time.

"I got out of the tumble,” Truncer continued, “but I didn't panic because I'd been through it before. I was prepared for it. I turned around and saw the cliff; I was close to the rocks. The jet ski driver asked me if I wanted to get out or keep going. My brother was filming from another jet ski. I saw him crying and distraught. I rested for a while and rode a couple more waves. They weren't that big, but it got me over the ordeal."

Related: ‘Nightmare Fuel’: Lucas Chumbo’s Horrific Nazaré Wipeout (Video)

That brings us to organizing a last minute trip with Cam Richards and partner Sophie Turner who left the warm Florida sun to experience a road bike surf trip down the Southern Oregon Coast. “I have nothing else going on this week so why not go on an adventure!” Cam said after committing to the trip less than 12 hours before catching his flight to Portland. There was a promised grand adventure, that beauty would be found and hearts would be full. But the catch was to experience all this on a bike with old fashioned peddle power (with the help of a support van in case the atmospheric river in the forecast made things too dangerous). The stage was set and these two were ready to enjoy all the love Oregon had to offer.

You have to love rain, love being cold, love wind and love a raw coast to appreciate the pacific north west. There are a lot of headlands and beaches to explore and the slower pace of being on a bike made this surf trip more intimate. The beautiful thing about Cam is he is a well seasoned traveler who knows how to make the best of any situation. He’s also an exceptional surfer who can make any wave look fun. Sophie grew up in the harsh winters of England and is no stranger to changing weather. Oregon was made for these lovers. 

[All photos courtesy of Jeremiah Klein]

From Oregon with Love (Gallery)

Day 1: They made it to Pacific City just before sunset which was arguably the best day of surf as far as conditions and shape. That night the crew had a nice dinner at The Pelican and made a warm campfire at the cabin. This is the way you want to start off the trip. 

Day 2: The morning wind made the surf uninviting as the weather changed throughout the day with scattered showers and colder temperatures. They found a nice lookout to relax from our bike ride and admire the view before a squall pushed them into the van. They hit Tillamook to sample their amazing cheese curds and delicious ice-cream. Sometimes you have to be a tourist and exploit the fact that you aren’t lactose intolerant. They arrived in Newport that night to camp in a yurt after enjoying a delicious dinner at Clearwater before bed.

Day 3: They woke up to sideways rain and blown out surf. Decided to try and bike out of the campground but realized it was too sketchy on the open highway and drove the support van to Coos Bay. They made it to the South Oregon Coast! Found a protected cove to surf but were chased out by an angry sea lion. An ADU in the Oceanside RV park kept them safe from more weather and the North Bend Lanes kept the crew entertained at night. Cam and Sophie were gifted special bowling shirts. “Who bowls? I am!” Was the quote of the night which was said at least 52 times.

Day 4: The first storm finally passed and the sun came out in the morning for an hour. The river mouth in front of our accommodations was fun with offshore winds but felt scary to surf alone. Cam opted to surf with the few locals down the beach on stand up paddle boards. “You feel small in the line-up because everything is so wild and big up there.” said Cam on the beach surrounded by pine trees after that session. This is Oregon where big trees, big seals, big beards, big hot toddies at 7 Devils Waterfront Alehouse and big love for adventure is everywhere.

Day 5: Morning weather got sour again with rain and wind. Headed south on bikes and stopped at Cape Blanco. Cam surfed a log filled rocky beach break while Sophie enjoyed a picnic and the view. After another seal spotting the session ended and back on the bikes toward Port Orford. They stumbled upon a nice looking wave at Battle Rock that offered both Cam and Sophie some fun waves and warm sunshine. “The water in Oregon was pretty cold, it’s always a challenge surfing in the thick rubber but once you get used to it, it’s actually quite nice, and the booties can actually be a pretty nice grip! But those first couple sessions are always pretty rough!” Cam said as he enjoyed the warmth of the sun. That night they stayed in a Tree House next to a waterfall at Lily Glen near Gold Beach. A great dinner was found at Grounding Pizza place.

Day 6: Up north, Portland experienced power outages and flooding in Pacific City so the prediction for South Coast was going to be wet and wild later that day. The wind was strong and the rain was sideways at times making it difficult to bike ride but the south wind kept the brunt of the storm pushed north of us. As the day went on we got to explore some hiking trails and potential wind protected surf spots but ended up settling for clam chowder and an old school arcade with skee-ball and 90’s video games.

Day 7: It’s been a week and the legs are strong, heart full with adventure and romance meter filled up. Surf was fun and taking the slower route on the bike allowed us to be in the moment. The Oregon Coast is so beautiful to be experienced this way. It would have been a shame to miss all that being in the passenger seat of a car and distracted by the doom scrolling on the phone. From Oregon with love!

Whether it’s due to foilers taking over lineups, leaving traditional surfers left in the dust, or it’s the guillotine nature of the deathly foil wing, the surf novelty has seen no shortage of controversy. And yet, even some of the world’s best have caught the foil bug over the past few years, riding them on occasion, soaring above the water.

Below, you’ll find a video example of where the debate stems from – a foil surfer taking on friendly fire from another foiler, and nearly being chopped in half.

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The video comes from Oscar Triana, and appears to show a session at Chicama, Peru – often called the “world’s longest wave,” yet mostly a mushburger. Perfect for the foiling crowd. Triana experiences a collision with a fellow foiler, with the other’s board striking him with the blade in the gut. Miraculously, he came out unscathed.

“Close call in the wave party with my friend,” he wrote. “After having fun with 10 waves together I tried take his board but he saved it with his leash. All good, [not] any person, board or foil was damaged in this scene.”

Related: Foil Surfer Dies After Shark Attack ‘Mutilation’ in New Caledonia

Elsewhere, when reposted on the endlessly entertaining KookSlams account, the video garnered many comments on the merits of foiling. And also, a guillotine gif.

It wasn’t too long ago that, within Orange County, CA, surfers were petitioning to ban hydrofoils from specific surf spots, due to the dangers they pose. The plea, which stemmed from Seal Beach Jetty, included the following:

“When I see a foil board(er), I feel sick to my stomach. I feel super uncomfortable when a foil board comes close to me or any other vulnerable surfer. I would hate to have to deal with a foil slicing me open; a fatal accident due to lack of skill/control.”

Related: Mark Zuckerberg Hydrofoil Surfs XL Wave (Video)

Thoughts on foil surfers mingling with regular surfers?

By the time I was 26, the pain was still there and I never thought it would go away, I was always afraid to that I would injure it even worse. I consulted with several doctors over the years and they would just give me vague directions for physical therapy. A friend of mine who is an endurance athlete and ultra-runner was convinced I could get past it, it was just a matter of strengthening the right muscles. I was still skeptical.

It wasn't until I heard of Ben Patrick, more commonly known by his Instagram handle @kneesovertoesguy. Before him, I had seen many different mobility experts on social media but a pro snowboarder friend of mine swore by him--he helped him recover from far worse injuries than me.

Patrick's story is quite remarkable, he went from being a mediocre basketball played in college who was plagued by terrible injuries to an internet fitness sensation who has worked with everyone from professional athletes to school kids to senior citizens. His entire theory is built around the fact that we are almost always locked into doing one motion--say walking forward, not backward--and this keeps us lopsided and easily prone to injury.

Ben is the founder of Athletic Truth Group (ATG), an online and brick-and-mortar training system rooted in rehabilitative strength and joint health. After years of debilitating knee and shin pain (including multiple surgeries), he rebuilt his body and performance, going from a sub-20″ vertical to a documented 42″ leap.

Walking backwards

Now I realize that this may sound--and look--quite silly, but it works. It is a fundamental restorative exercise that is great for your lower body. For those who are very athletic and need more of a challenge, you can up-level this by walking backwards uphill. For those who are perhaps mobility impaired or elderly, you can make this easier by walking with someone guiding you. Check the video below for the full scoop.

Squats

Before you think you need a squat rack and tons of weights, here this out. Squatting is an incredible powerful restorative pose even when it is done without any weight. Yes, that's right--you don't need to hit the gym for this one but it still may be harder than you think.

As kids, we are great at this. We are nimble, flexible and light. We can plop down into a squat easily. The thing we don't realize is that as soon as that ability starts to go, we are setting ourselves up for future struggle. I personally couldn't get into a deep squat fluidly, I had to go down slow and carefully. Once there, I could only stay for about 30 seconds before it became too much. You'd be surprised how many adults can't get into a deep squat.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Ia3EYoDaxdQ?si=TO3wbTFjw2wrgFlG

Tibialis raises

Now this is the one that really helped me given my past injuries. This is one of the cornerstone exercises of the Knees Over Toes program and all you need is a wall. Start by leaning your back against the wall and placing your feet a bit out from the wall--the farther you go, the harder it is. Once you find the sweet spot for moderate difficulty, do 20 reps. Then flip around and do 20 single leg calf raises to balance it out while your circulation is pumping. These can be modified in various ways for increased difficulty or ease.

https://youtube.com/shorts/M0e70uJ3z0E?si=YoViZHlnGF1zv4d_

For me, this is what helped build the muscles in front of my knee which helped support it overall no matter what I was doing. Once I did this for a few weeks I could feel a pronounced difference in the water and was surfing without costant fear of injury. For what it's worth, I feel better in knees now than when I did 10 years ago.

Related: Hip Mobility: The Secret to Staying Deep in the Barrel

The latest on the latter is being touted as “Australia’s tallest building.” The proposal for the Gold Coast promises: “This 91-story landmark will feature a 285-room luxury hotel, 272 premium residences, an exclusive Beach Club, and over 3,400 sqm of retail and dining space, redefining beachfront luxury in the heart of Surfers Paradise.”

And some Australians on this hallowed ground – with its famed surf spots to the south, like Snapper Rocks – are opposing the building proposal.

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In the wake of the Trump Tower Gold Coast announcement, which will be helmed by Eric Trump, a Change.org petition was created, and since garnered over 100,000 signatures. The petition states:

“The Gold Coast is known for its natural beauty, inclusivity, and community-focused development. Any major project proposed for our city should reflect these values.

“There is growing concern about proposals to build a Trump-branded tower in Surfers Paradise. Beyond issues of over-development, environmental impact, and pressure on local infrastructure, many residents are deeply uncomfortable with the Trump brand and what it represents.”

Related: Surf Fight Erupts at World’s Most Crowded Wave (Video)

The project is reported to cost a whopping $1.5 billion. In addition to the hotel and luxury apartment space, the tower is proposed to feature a 360-degree crown, flashing the Trump name 335 meters in the sky.

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According to reports, whether or not the project will go forward is still, like the light up top floor of the tower, up in the air. The developer of the project – Altus Property Group’s David Young – has gone bankrupt twice. Trump has filed six times.

The developers say the project will break ground by August, and be finished by the end of the decade. Stay tuned.

Related: ‘Surfer’s Dream’: Sand Dredging Creates Ultimate Novelty Wave (Video)

Vertigo Sports, a wakeboard park company turned wave pool manufacturer, has two of their pools already operating in the western regions of the country – one in Rostov Oblast (a district bordering Ukraine) and another in Leningrad Oblast (up by Finland).

For more on the company, and to see the tech in action, watch below.

“Our system uses pneumatic chamber-caissons,” Pavel Churin recently told WavePoolMag. “It does not rely on mechanical levers. The chambers sit above the water surface and are connected to the pool through submerged intake openings.”

Of the two pools, the first opened in 2024, with the second following in 2025. According to the website, the first pool, More Volnuetsa, offers a wave breaking to the right, across an 85-meter (278-feet) pool, and 1.5-meter (4.9-feet) waves; the second pool, Water and Surf, features a left breaking wave in a 120-meter (393-feet) pool and heights up to 1.7 meters (5.5 feet).

And it’s clear that Vertigo has high hopes for their technology, specifically when it comes to Russian surfers competing at the highest level.

“Since 2020, surfing has been included in the list of Olympic sports. Artificial waves open revolutionary opportunities for the development of surfing in Russia and countries without access to the ocean,” the website states. “This is a key technology for creating a regular training process for athletes.”

Related: Surfers Outraged at New Olympic Qualification Path: ‘Complete Disrespect’

Recently, as you probably heard, the Olympic surfing qualification pathway underwent a controversial change, per the International Surfing Association. For upcoming games, like LA 2028, fewer surfers will come from the World Surf League’s Championship Tour, and more will come from the ISA World Surfing Games.

For Russia, however, the ISA has a current ban on Russia, due to the Ukrainian conflict.

“In line with the International Olympic Committee’s (IOC) recommendations, the ISA’s sanctions mean no athletes and officials from Russia will be invited to participate or attend ISA events until further notice,” a statement reads.

Maybe one day? An Olympic surfer from Russia? Stay tuned.

Related: 8ft Waves at Home? Welcome to the Era of Private Wave Pools

The event is free and open to the public, with heats beginning at 7 a.m. (weather and waves permitting). Oceanside has previously hosted the event in 2008, 2017, and 2025, making it a familiar venue for the kneelo community.

Kneeboarders are a rather obscure part of the larger surf community, it's not often that you see one in the lineup, but that doesn't mean they can't charge, get barreled and generate buckets of spray. Kneeboarding also plays a crucial part of surf history, before the shortboard revolution unfolded, George Greenough inspired surfers with the radical lines he could draw while on surfing on his kneeboard which was much shorter than the surfboards of the time. Similarly with Steve Lis, who's observation of kneeboarders in La Jolla inspired his design of the twin fin fish that's still one of the most beloved surfboard templates of the day.

“Kneeboarders share a community unlike any other in the surfing world,” said Jack Beresford, KSUSA President. “We compete hard, but these events are just as much a family reunion and celebration of the sport.”

The Don Harris Trophy

All eyes will be on Kevin Skvarna of San Juan Capistrano, who enters as the heavy favorite after winning the last three consecutive Open division titles. At just 28, Skvarna brings a wealth of experience from years competing on the world pro longboard tour — and he'll be hungry for a fourth straight crown.

Skvarna is an absolute weapon but the field of challengers is stacked with talent including:

• Chris Beresford & Jack Beresford (San Diego) — both former champions
• Sam Coyne (San Diego) — a distinguished international competitor chasing his first US title
• Chris Buscemi (Oceanside) — 2025 AAA Division winner and a regular on Oceanside's hollow beach breaks
• Adam Shapiro (Washington) — a South Africa-born veteran who finished 2nd in the Open division in 2025

Defending the Junior Title is Cormac Cove O'Brien, who recently blew up the internet with his switch stance tube riding at home in the South Bay. Former women's champions, Rachel Lord of Ventura, and Patti Hook of North Carolina, will battle it out for this year's title.

Related: Wave of the Day: Cormac O'Brien Switch Stance in the South Bay

The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, one of surfing’s most prestigious events, often called the Super Bowl of the sport, will officially not run during the 2025/26 season.

Consistent 40-foot-plus waves – the requisite to run the event – unfortunately did not hit Hawaii and the contest venue, Waimea Bay, during this season’s window, which ran from December 7th, 2025 and will finish on March 6th, 2026.

Eddie Aikau Foundation President, Linda Ipsen, said in a statement:

“The Board of Directors for the Eddie Aikau Foundation would like to express our appreciation for the time and effort that you gave to coverage of the EDDIE Opening Ceremony held on 12/5/25, which was a great success due to the stories that you shared. We were hoping for the 3-peat, but we'll have to wait for the next winter surf season on the North Shore.

“We are grateful for your continued support during this 90-day waiting period and being ready to GO with only a 2-3 day notice.

“Whether the EDDIE goes, or not, you have been a key factor in helping us to celebrate and honor Eddie Aikau's life and legacy.”

Related: Jamie O’Brien Surfs ‘60ft’ Waimea Bay at The Eddie (Video)

In December of 2024, the event was won by North Shore of Oahu native, Landon McNamara; and the year prior, local lifeguard Luke Shepardson took home the win.

Prior to 2023, the event last ran in 2016, with John John Florence winning – the same year the Hawaii-born surfer won his first of three world titles.

The event has long been an homage to legendary surfer, waterman, and the first lifeguard at Waimea Bay, Eddie Aikau. Tragically, the Hawaiian icon lost his life when a sailing voyage went awry in 1978, and Eddie paddled his surfboard into a storm for help. They never found his body; Eddie was 31 years old. And ever since, The Eddie has honored his legacy.

Until next season.

Related: A Celebration of Life & Legacy: Scenes from The Eddie Opening Ceremony (Photos)

Sure, I’m biased. I grew up in “Newy,” but I couldn’t think of a better place to bookend the Changas than with the Bioglan Newcastle Surf Fest. After all, this is a surfmad town that has hosted a professional surfing event every year since 1961. In 1985, the BHP International was the richest surfing event in the world (total prizemoney $100,000), and was televised live on national TV. And while the swapping of a (now dismantled) steelmaker for a vitamins and supplements company signifies how much the world has changed, the frenzied thirst of the Novocastrians for elite surfing has never wavered.

You might remember how the first event of the year scored epic waves. A six-to-eight-foot south swell, fanned by light offshores, saw Merewether doing its best J-Bay impersonation. We are also still, technically, in cyclone season. If a low pressure pops up in the Coral Sea, a powerful north-east swell could see the beachies of Dixon Park trying its Pipe impersonation. Statistically, it will probably receive something somewhere in the middle. But with 13 CT spots across the Men's and Women’s still up for grabs, tension is guaranteed in almost every heat.

Kauli Vaast Is on the Cusp

The Tahitian Gold Medalist has been more erratic than a crack head trying to work out global tariffs. He started with a runner-up finish at Newcastle, and won in Portugal, but has lost in the first round in the other three events. That still has him in second, and those throwaways mean he’ll add to his tally with each heat win. Merewether suits his backhand, which is main weapon, but the beachies work for his tuberiding and air game too. Barring some misadventure in a Newcastle nightclub, we’ll have the Tahitian on the CT at Bells. Where his talent belongs.

The Aussies on the Charge

In the Men’s, Australians currently occupy five of the top 10 ranking spots and seven of the top 12. Callum Robson, fresh off a Pipe win, sits on 11th. The other Pipe Finalist, Morgan Cibilic, grew up at Merewether and has 700 points as a counting score. George Pittar sits in relatively safely at third, and the experience of Liam O’Brien and Jacob Wilcox (at 9 and 10) should be enough to get them over the line. That just leaves the surprise packet of Oscar Berry. The powerhouse rookie will be feeling the pressure, but he has been one of the most consistent CS surfers all year. Either way, expect the Aussies to be taking at least half of the new CT spots on offer. And when they do, expect a massive night at the Beaches Hotel.

Euro Force for the Women

There’s less room to move in the Women’s. Yolanda Hopkins, Tya Zebrowski, Sally Fitzgibbons and defending event champion Kika Veselko have already locked in their CT lanyards for 2026, leaving just three spots available. It’s possible that if the Basque duo of Nadia Erostarbe and 18-year-old Annette Gonzalez Extabarri hold their current places (5th and 7th), Europe could be filling five of the seven CT spots available, and signify the continent being a major force in women’s surfing.

Related: Blue-Collar Journeymen Make Huge Rankings Leap at Firing Pipeline

Hometown Hero

“I'd just like to make a couple of heats. I haven’t made one since Newcastle,” Ryan Callinan told SURFER. After dropping off the CT after an injury-plagued year in 2025, R-Cal looked back to his best with a semi-final finish at home. Since then, in each event in South Africa, California, Portugal, Brazil and Hawaii, he’s lost in the first round. It’s been a big, but tough year. He lost his longtime sponsor, Billabong, gained a new baby daughter, signed with Rivvia and has been on the biggest losing streaks of his career. Yet, if you watch him surf, or see his clips (the latest filmed at home below), he remains one of the most explosive, progressive and powerful surfers on the planet. “I feel good in my body, and I’m surfing the way I want to surf. If it was pumping at Merewether, I'd feeling really good and really confident,” he said. Even a win might not secure a CT spot, but you’d have to put him in as one of the most dangerous surfers in the field.  

What’s Up With The Seppos?

After newly qualified Eli Hanneman, you have to drop down to 14 on the rankings to Dimitri Poulos to see the Stars and Stripes. Although Levi Slawson, Kade Matson and Tara Wanatabe are all in the top 20, they’ll need a massive result to make the grade. In the women’s, Alyssa Spencer is the only American with any real chance of clawing her way back on the CT. While the upper reaches of elite league are well-stocked with mainland American talent, based on this year's CS, the talent pool lacks the depth needed to restock any losses.

Rookies to Watch

21-year-old South African Luke Thompson has had a breakthrough year. His win in Ballito has seen him hold down a top 5 spot, but apart from a Quarterfinal in Ericeira, he’s failed to capitalise. He’ll be nervous, but has the technique and physique to seal the deal. In the women’s, Anat Lelior is as close to qualification as she has been since she started on the QS in 2019. The powerful goofy footer sits at 9th, just two places off becoming Israel’s first ever CT competitor. Just ahead of her is Brazilian Laura Raupp, who also would be the first Brazilian-based surfer to make the CT since Silvana Lima.

Related: Gallery: Gabriela Bryan Wins Lexus Pipe Challenger

So, online trolls created one. They told the totally fabricated tale of one John H. Backflip, who performed the maneuver for King Edward II on Christmas Day in 1316. Backflip was later exiled. By whom, you ask? William Frontflip, of course.

As for backflips in surfing, their origins can be traced through a careful history of slowly inverting air reverses, combined with the once-popular rodeo clown maneuver. But straight-up backflips are still pretty rare – and especially ones like the below.

Here, Hawaii’s Jackson Bunch punts, as the title suggests, what might quite possibly be: “The biggest backflip surfing has ever seen!!”

The video comes from the brothers Colapinto – Griffin and Crosby – and features a highlight reel from the North Shore of Oahu’s aquatic skatepark, Rocky Point. Captioning the clip, the Cola Bros write: “Always a great time in Hawaii. We got lucky and scored firing Rocky Point with no one out. We also got to witness our friend Jackson Bunch throw the biggest backflip we've ever seen.”

Related: Italo Ferreira Backflips at New Brazil Wave Pool (Video)

As for Bunch, he didn’t have much to say about the nearly landed backflip. Just, “I need to make it next time.” We sure hope he does, too.

The flip itself is quite big. The biggest, though? Who knows. For reference, and a little history, here’s backflip forefather, Flynn Novak, busting the maneuver (which he called the “Flynnstone Flip”) 16 years ago at the very same spot.

Last season, Bunch was a rookie on the Championship Tour. Before his inaugural crack on the big stage, SURFER caught up with the high-flying Hawaiian:

“Going into these contests coming up I don’t want to stress myself out too much,” Bunch said. “I want to enjoy it and take everything seriously, but not hold onto any of the losses because it’s going to be a really big learning experience for me.”

“To start a new journey at home in Hawaii is super special and Pipe is such an amazing wave with so much Hawaiian history. I’m just excited to represent Hawaii as best I can and do what I do at Pipeline.”

Related: Hydrofoil Surfer Lands First-Ever Double Backflip (Watch)

More importantly, what do we think about backflips in surfing?

Since then, understandably, some folks have been a little bit on edge.

Many have been tuned to the Dorsal shark reporting app, keeping an eye on toothy activity. And on Sunday, a peculiar shark sighting was reported on the app. It came from Kellyville, a suburb about 20 kilometers, or 12 miles, from the ocean.

Local police posted a screenshot of the app sighting, along with a blurred image of the shark, appearing on a brick road, clearly out of the water. A puzzling situation, that’s for sure. Captioning the post, local police wrote:

“Interesting call this morning about a shark sighting - 20km inland at Fairway Drive Kellyville. Not sure how this shark ended up here?”

The strange shark sighting also comes as fresh warnings have been issued with rainy weather on the forecast. Minister for Agriculture and Regional NSW, Tara Moriarty, said:

"If your local beach is closed due to the weather, shark sightings, or poor water quality, we ask beach goers, swimmers and surfers to not enter the water for their own safety.

"If you're on the coastline, by the harbor or on waterways, it's important to understand how the environment can influence shark behavior and to then take the necessary steps to reduce your risk of a shark interaction."

Related: Shark Attack Survivor with Amputated Leg Returns to Surfing (Video)

Surfers and swimmers are being urged to avoid waters with low visibility, which can lead to bull shark attacks, like the recent rash of maulings.

During the series of attacks, sadly, 12-year-old Nico Antic died from his injuries. Additionally, 27-year-old surfer Andre de Ruyter lost his leg during an attack.

As for the shark found in Kellyville, that one remains a mystery.

Related: Chris Hemsworth Surfs Through Shark ‘Feeding Frenzy’ in Australia (Video)

Along with the Azores, the Canaries are sometimes called, “the Hawaii of Europe.”

But unlike their counterparts in the Pacific, the Canaries are raw and rugged, a bit colder, less tropical, and a hotspot for wintertime Atlantic Ocean swell activity. Their volcanic nature makes for dramatic rock formations, which on occasion, can crumble – like the scene in the clip below, showing a gigantic rock slide into the ocean on La Gomera.

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The clip is a few years old; it happened back in 2020. But it was recently reposted by the account above, which, as translated, captioned the video:

“Mega rock movement occurred in 2020 on the island of La Gomera, one of the islands of the Canary Islands, Spain. The event hit a small road where campers were parked but there were no casualties. The event shows the importance of assessing the geological hazards of all fixed and temporary infrastructures, as in the case of the camping parking site, which was clearly a very high hazard site due to the natural conditions of the slope and rocky massif and extremely vulnerable to vehicles and people.”

Here's another angle:

As mentioned, no casualties during the event, despite cars parked directly beneath the slide. Also, judging by the footage, there was a small refractory wave from the landslide, as sometimes happens, like during the historic 1,720-foot wave at Lituya Bay, Alaska.

Related: Freakishly Huge Wave Slams Seawall in Canary Islands (Video)

More recently, the Canary Islands have been in the news with regards to big wave activity, and sadly, casualties. Late last year, a rogue wave slammed a natural pool on the island of Tenerife; four people were swept from the pool out to sea, and drowned.

And since then, there’s been multiple dangerous wave sightings and encounters.

Not to mention, from a surfing lens, the localism aspect – seen here and here.

Related: 30ft Wave Swallows ‘Reckless’ Tourists in Canary Islands (Video)

Sam Bradford, however, has been kayaking the whitewater rapids of the river since he was 10 years old, and surfing it for the past three or so years.

He is in a world of his own, perhaps the world’s foremost authority on Zambezi River surfing, a member of an exclusive club with very few (if any) other members. And below, Bradford takes us through what it’s like surfing the mighty Zambezi, the dangers that come with it, and his commitment and love for the African novelty river wave.

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“This is the price you pay to surf arguably the sickest river wave in the world,” Bradford narrates. “On average, I’m surfing for five-to-eight minutes at a time. As you peel out of the wave, absolutely exhausted, you get sucked into a whirlpool. It’s just incredible how powerful the river is. Eventually, it will open up, and you’ll pop back up to the surface.”

“I thought I had a second to catch my breath, but I instantly found myself getting swallowed by another one. Trying to stay calm, and praying my leash does not snap. As I was about to run out of air, I eventually came back to the surface, and took a massive breath. And then you walk back to the top, and do it all over again.”

Related: Portugal River Wave Sweeps Surfers Out to Sea During ‘Devastating Crisis’ (Video)

The main wave that surfers ride on the Zambezi is simply called Rapid #11. It’s perhaps one of the few river waves in the entire world that actually barrels. According to a Zambezi kayaking tour operation, number 11 is like this:

“The ocean tubing wave, twice a year during small windows (early July-mid Jan). For around 10-14 days this beauty works. It is the mother of all river waves, and the site for moves of the future! During low water the rapid allows two lines both avoiding a heinous hole. Watch out for the evil eddy line & whirlpool.”

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And strangely, it’s not the drowning and the whirlpools and the raging river that’s the scariest part of the entire experience. As Bradford recently told ZigZag Mag:

“The main danger, and this sounds crazy, is that there’s actually a crocodile living in the eddy near the wave. I try not to think about it… nothing’s stopping me from surfing that wave.”

At least he doesn’t have to deal with crowds?

Related: Cargo Ship Creates ‘Insane’ Wave from Huge Boat Wake (Video)

Don't get me wrong, I have a love for classic cars and I think a lot of newer cars are actually, for lack of a better word, lame.

That being said, the Volkswagen ID.4 was the first one I saw that genuinely piqued my interest. I was drawn to the clean lines and simplicity that made it all very easy on the eyes. It doesn't look weirdly futuristic, it looks like a perfect bridge to a more modern automobile. Bonus points that it's a German car but made in the USA at the Volkswagen factory in Tennessee.

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I think there's a lot of genuine awesomeness to electric vehicles but that's not the entire story. Honestly, I find most of them to be over-engineered--like, why do they beep so much. Furthermore, I think some are downright ugly--I'm looking at you Hyundai Ioniq. Tesla may have lead the field for a longtime but nowadays it's hard to even look at one without instantly thinking of the deranged founder of the company that seems hellbent on global domination. Don't even get me started on the Cyber Trucks...

For me, the thought of an electric vehicle such as the Volkswagen ID.4 is perfect as a daily driver, something to complement an older gas-powered beach cruiser or adventure rig. From the point of view of a small family, having two distinctly different vehicles can be great to cover all the bases. Even from the point of view as a single person, in this case me, the ID.4 is pretty attractive to consider, especially given how affordable they are as used vehicles.

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While a new 2026 ID.4 starts around $40k--too much for a surf journalist salary--used ones can be had for about half that price depending on the year and mileage. There are great deals on new ones, especially for leasing, but still not exactly what I can afford. Originally I was pretty skeptical about buying a used EV, but the post above explains why they're an "absolute bargain".

Electric vehicles are great around town because they're efficiency is best in stop-and-go driving. Whether that's commuting to work, running errands, or going to the beach for a quick surf, the short trips can add up to solid savings. The fuel performance isn't as great with highway driving but the ID.4 can sure get up and go quite quickly. Putting the pedal to the metal will get you to 60mph in 5 seconds. Unlike a lightweight hybrid vehicle, like a Prius for instance, the ID.4 feels very solid on the road. For what it's worth, I felt very safe when driving amongst bigger vehicles.

The range isn't amazing, roughly 300 miles per charge depending on driving conditions, but overall not bad. Charging up does take longer than filling up with gas and chargers aren't found quite as easily as a gas stations--both things to consider when planning a road trip in an EV. Early complaints with the ID.4 involved software issues which have since been addressed.

Another important factor is the price of gas, currently it's low enough to the point that most people shrugged off EVs--especially in states outside of California. In coastal areas, with high costs of living, the economics of an EV start to make more sense if you're trying to save money however you can. Given the current war in the Middle East, gas prices could fluctuate and increase in the coming weeks.

In conclusion, spending only one week with a vehicle is hard to gauge all of the merits and flaws but I thoroughly enjoyed my time with the ID.4. Aside from software complaints and only decent range, it is still a great EV to consider.

Mantega, who was of German descent yet grew up in Brazil, has been surfing with a friend when the incident occurred. He went missing for a few minutes, according to local reports. The friend pulled Mantega from the water, and he was pronounced dead.

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Speaking with SURFER, Mantega’s sister-in-law Josephin Thome explained:

“He was surfing with a friend when he encountered difficulties in the water and was pulled out by his friend. Despite resuscitation efforts by his friend and another surfer, he was pronounced dead at the scene. He died while surfing, he died while doing what he loved the most in a beautiful place.”

His wife, Sophia, said:

“He was like every surfer, a wild man, an adventurer who loved nature. He made people feel good everywhere he went because he was so kind, charming & funny. I always felt so grateful that my daughter has a father who is the kind of man who cries from happiness. Few of his mantras that we can all use now is ‘Vida boa’ [good life] and ‘Sem medo’[no fear]."

Sophia added: “He loved being a Dad and he was so good at it.”

Related: Portugal River Wave Sweeps Surfers Out to Sea During ‘Devastating Crisis’ (Video)

Mantega leaves behind not only his wife, Sophia, but they’re one-and-a-half-year-old daughter, Violetta. And following his passing, a GoFundMe as well as a Paypal fundraiser were created to support the family Mantega leaves behind. They read:

“It is with broken hearts that we share the news that Martin, known to many as Mantega, has left us far too soon due to an accident.

“He passed away doing what he loved — in a moment of happiness, surrounded by dreams for the future. This is how we will remember him: smiling, fearless, and full of life.”

Rest in peace, Martin “Mantega” Cirko.

Related: Monster Waves Blast 130ft Cliff in Portugal During Storm Ingrid (Video)

Areas outside of Iran that were impacted include touristic hotspots and major travel hubs such as Dubai and Abu Dhabi, both in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), and Doha, Qatar. The retaliatory attacks led to the closure of seven airports including Dubai--the world's busiest international airport--which was reportedly struck by an Iranian drone.

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We now know that this first phase of the war is being called Operation Epic Fury and that Iran's Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei has been killed. What we do not know is how long this conflict will continue to disrupt the lives of millions of people throughout the region and beyond.

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It seems silly to think about surf travel in a time like this but many people may face disruptions if they're planning on traveling within the near future to destinations that require connecting in places like Dubai or Doha.

Other reports indicate that in addition to military targets like the US Navy's 5th Fleet Headquarters in Bahrain, civilian areas were also targeted. So far reports include strikes at the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest skyscraper, and the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, the world's most luxurious hotel where suites can cost up to $24,000 a night. Reports also indicate that the Fairmont Hotel has also been attacked.

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In Abu Dhabi, home to the world's most advanced wave pool, Surf Abu Dhabi, the Zayed International Airport was struck by an Iranian drone attack resulting in at least one death and multiple injuries. The Etihad Towers, home to the Israeli Embassy, were also targeted.

Although many affluent areas of the Middle East utilize missile defense systems to intercept hostile attacks, the systems are not perfect and can be penetrated. Emergency messaging systems are warning residents to shelter in place while the strikes continue to unfold.

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In addition to the disruption of air travel, shipping routes and ports are being targeted and could result in many difficulties for international business. Although there are claims being made that this will not be another 'forever war' it is far too soon to tell exactly how this will impact people around the world.

Related: Is It Safe to Travel to Mexico Right Now? Here’s What to Know

It was July of 2022, and a mythical beast came to life. Freight Trains, a reeling and extremely rare wave at Maalaea Harbor, came to life in historic fashion.

And while many Maui surfers were getting the waves of their lives – exceptionally long tubes at a wave that scarcely breaks – other parts of the island saw surf, too. Perhaps not as perfect; yet still, just as rare. Like the shorebreak session that went down at Kaanapali Beach. Check out the highlights below.

BEEFS T.V. recently unleashed the vault, showing that session from 2022, featuring Maui’s own Clay Marzo taking on the thumping, sand-bottomed barrels of Kaanapali. According to BEEFS, it was, “some of the biggest and gnarliest shorebreak waves in years.”

Tourists onshore gathered to watch; whitewater washed into beachfront buildings.

Related: Watch: This Hawaii Shorebreak Wave Is a ‘Deathtrap’ for Tourists

But really, the swell will go down in history for what happened at Maalaea Harbor. Code Red Two, it was dubbed. And below, follow along as Kai Lenny surfs the mythical wave, something so special and seldom seen, it’s worth revisiting.

Red Bull captioned:

“On July 17, a few days after the Code Red Two swell thumped into Teahupo’o in Tahiti, it continued across the South Pacific and turned north, stealing through the tiny gap between the coast of Maui and the uninhabited islet of Kayo-olawe at the exact perfect angle needed to turn the Ma'alaea Harbor into the world’s fastest wave. So rare is this gem that Maui’s Kai Lenny, rider of the world’s wildest waves, had never surfed it before.”

And Kai added:

“I think this goes down as one of the all-time greatest days on Maui, at least in my lifetime. The waves were all-time, all day long, I can’t believe what just happened."

Related: 50ft Wave at Jaws Detonates on Kai Lenny’s Head (Video)

The circumstances surrounding an El Niño are many. It is sparked with a chain reaction of events that feed into each other. To understand El Niño, it's important to know about the ENSO cycle. This is the El Niño-Southern Oscillation cycle, which is where the sea surface temperatures in the South Pacific are either cooling (known as La Niña) or warming up (which is El Niño). There's also a middle-phase known as ENSO neutral, where the water is neither warming or cooling. At the moment, the ENSO cycle is in the La Niña phase. This rotation of warm and cool waters is not something you can time but generally fluctuates every few-to-seven years.

Generally speaking, El Niño means bigger more consistent swells for the US and La Niña means less consistent surf. During La Niña years, there is more high-pressure in the atmosphere that can block storms from reaching the coastline. For Austalia though, La Niña can see more easterly swell fill in, which could lead to better surf.

Related: Guide To The World's Biggest Waves

What Causes El Niño

“The first indicators of an El Niño season are the weakening of the trade winds in the South Pacific,” said surf forecaster Tony Butt. “When they weaken, it allows the water to warm up, creating a warm pool of water. This then starts to drift across the Pacific and eventually up towards Japan.

“This warm water significantly alters the jetstream, and impacts circulation patterns. Essentially, it can pull the jetstream south, which will then alter storm tracks in the Pacific.”

With the jetstream shifted, it can mke a path for storms to head towards the US and Hawaii. During El Niño years, these storms can become more powerful and intense – and can sometimes over-power coastlines.

“Right now, it's probably a bit too early to call with any definitive answer,” said Tony. “This is because, the weakening trade winds – the first indicator of El Niño – usually occurs in the spring-time, around April. Once we see that weakening, it will take months for this to actually happen, likely in place for the 2026 winter, if it's going to happen at all.”

Is It Happening This Year?

There are other under-lying factors here too that could help spot an El Niño season even before the trade-winds begin to slow down.

Earlier this month, NOAA published their latest ENSO-status, which takes a look at the transitional phase of the cycle as it is right now. According to them, if the cycle continues as is, we're in for a 50-60% chance of an El Niño season, though emphasised it's still too early to say with confidence what will happen.

“A transition from La Niña to ENSO-neutral is expected in February-April 2026 (60% chance), with ENSO-neutral likely persisting through the Northern Hemisphere summer (56% chance in June-August 2026),” the report reads.

“The equatorial subsurface temperature index (average from 180°-100°W) significantly increased, reflecting the strengthening and expansion of above-average subsurface temperatures across the Pacific Ocean.

“Atmospheric anomalies weakened due to subseasonal variability, but still reflected aspects of La Niña. Low-level westerly wind anomalies were present over the western equatorial Pacific, and upper-level westerly wind anomalies continued across the east-central equatorial Pacific. Suppressed convection was weakly evident near the Date Line and over the equatorial Maritime Continent, with enhanced convection located off the equator.

“The North American Multi-Model Ensemble (NMME) average, including the NCEP CFSv2, the onset of ENSO-neutral in February-April 2026. The team consensus also reflects this outcome, with ENSO-neutral persisting through the Northern Hemisphere summer 2026. For the late summer and beyond, there is a 50-60% chance of El Niño forming, though model uncertainty remains considerable and forecasts made this time of year tend to have lower accuracy.”

As for past El Niño events, NOAA noted the 1997/1998 season as one of the strongest in history: “Two major El Niño events, 1982/1983 and 1997/1998, have both proven to be record breaking years in producing some of the strongest North Pacific fall and winter storms that have brought the largest and most consistent surf to the U.S. West Coast,” they said. “The most important forcing mechanism is wind, and the second is fetch (representing the continuous, unimpeded distance over which the wind is felt by the ocean) Fetch is a function of distance, but it’s also a function of a storm’s horizontal coverage area and translational velocity.

“These strong El Niño events provided the subtropical fuel needed to create a steady source of baroclinic instability (i.e., when strong horizontal temperature gradients intersect with strong pressure gradients), which facilitates persistent convective energy (i.e., exchange of warm and cold air masses that lead to winds, clouds, and weather) over much of the Central and North Pacific.

“Both these past and present El Niño events have contributed to convective energy that has been observed to propagate all the way into the interior of the U.S. and as far as the US East Coast, particularly affecting regions along the coastlines of the Gulf of Mexico. Greater baroclinic instability coupled with persistent convective energy during a strong winter El Niño means both a higher frequency and a higher intensity of storms, thus translating to a relatively rare and epic time where one can observe some of the largest and most consistent surf observed in the North Pacific region.”

Notable Rides During the Last El Niño

During the last El Niño, the swell of the decade roared into Maverick's on December 28, 2023. There were a few notable rides, but San Diego's Jojo Roper was one of the stand-outs. Jojo towed into a thick-lipped Mav's bomb, outside of the usual take-off zone and scored one of the most intense barrels out there that day.

The month before, in November of the same year, teen Steve Roberson opened the winter season with a wild Jaws ride with zero hesitation. This young gun has spent his early years studying Jaws, before finally deciding it was his time to head out there.

You may recall Molly Picklum's Pipeline performance in February 2024, one of the most incredible performances out there. But it was Caity Simmers' now famous quote: “Pipeline's for the fucking girls,” that went down in quotable history.

We'll be updating this piece as the climate drivers continue to evolve. Stay tuned!

Related: 12 Unbelievable Storms That Changed Weather History Forever

The teen boys – ages 15 and 17 – were arrested following the attack. And the victim, 54, was reportedly in “serious but stable condition” with wounds to his upper body.

Local news reported on the situation, noting that the boys were on e-biked, along with footage of the victim in the aftermath. See below for the coverage.

According to a report the New South Wales Police:

“Two teenage boys have been arrested after a stabbing in Sydney’s Eastern Suburbs.

“About 9.15pm today (Friday 27 February 2026), emergency services were called to Glasgow Avenue, Bondi Beach, following reports of a stabbing.

“Officers attached to Eastern Suburbs Police Area Command attended and found a 54-year-old man with a stab wound his upper body.

“Police were told the man had an altercation with two unknown boys, before the man was stabbed with a machete.”

This, of course, follows a string of tragic incidents to strike the Sydney area.

Related: Rest in Peace: Nico Antic, 12, Dies After Sydney, Australia Shark Attack

Most recently, there was a spate of shark attacks – four in the course of 48 hours – with one surfer losing his leg, and a 12-year-old boy dying from his wounds.

And before that, in December of last year, there was a mass shooting at Bondi Beach, with 16 people killed and more than 40 injured during a Hanukkah celebration.

Regarding the latest incident of violence in Sydney, the police continued:

“He [the victim] was treated by NSW Ambulance paramedics before being taken to St Vincent Hospital in a serious but stable condition.

“A crime scene has been established and investigations commenced.

“Following inquiries, two boys – aged 15 and 17 – were arrested at Beach Road, before being taken to Surry Hills Police Station where police are continuing their inquiries.

“Investigations are continuing.”

Prayers for Sydney.

Related: Surf Lifesavers Hailed as Heroes in Bondi Beach Attack

Torrential downpours have caused flooding in the streets of popular tourist and surfing destinations like Kuta, Seminyak, Sanur, and beyond.

More than just rain and flooding, however, the deluge has caused evacuations, fallen trees, landslides, and…gigantic snakes taking to the soggy streets. See below for the latter, as a 16-foot python was captured on camera cruising down the road.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/nvocgzHWQmU

Reposting a collection of snake sightings on X, it was reported:

“In Bali, at the height of the rainy season, huge pythons have been seen swimming through the streets Tourists are sharing videos showing snakes literally gliding across flooded courtyards and roads. Heavy rains continued for nearly three days without stopping, with water levels rising high enough to flood villas, swimming pools, and parked motorbikes.”

Related: Tourist Death Trap: Giant Wave Slams Bathers in Bali (Video)

The Burmese Python is a known snake of Indonesia, and according to NatGeo:

“Native to the jungles and grassy marshes of Southeast Asia, Burmese pythons are among the largest snakes on Earth. They are capable of reaching 23 feet or more in length and weighing up to 200 pounds with a girth as big as a telephone pole… They are also excellent swimmers, and can stay submerged for up to 30 minutes before surfacing for air.”

🐍In Bali, at the height of the rainy season, huge pythons have been seen swimming through the streets

Tourists are sharing videos showing snakes literally gliding across flooded courtyards and roads. Heavy rains continued for nearly three days without stopping, with water… pic.twitter.com/yB533Cfe1x

— NEXTA (@nexta_tv) February 25, 2026

Typically, the dry season (April-October) is primetime for surfing on the Bukit Peninsula. That’s when the famed waves like Uluwatu and Padang Padang really come to life. And when the crowds of tourists from Australia, the USA, and beyond flock the lineups. The wet season (November-March) is when other parts of the island – and other waves, like Keramas and Nusa Dua – primarily start doing their thing.

But really, there’s waves pretty much year-round in Bali. Just watch out for snakes.

Related: Top Surf Destinations For the Month of March

As Miki Dora once said: “I get stale if I ride one board.” Enter this space-saving, no-nonsense approach to having a few boards that will cover most occasions. Surfboard brands like JS and Pyzel even group their boards together to make it easy, Pyzel's Ghost, Gremlin and Phantom models are a prime example, the Ghost for hollow waves, Gremlin as your groveler and Phantom as your go-to, daily driver. JS has the Sub Xero (groveler), Xero Fusion (performance-based) and Xero Gravity (all-rounder) – in an attempt to work the theory that three boards are all you need.

What the three board quiver doesn't necessarily cover is if you're into some alt shapes, like an asym – that's a very different story, though you could still apply the same working theory. If you're a big wave surfer, you're going to have a few different guns knocking around and something to keep you sharp in the down-time. Either way, as a general rule of thumb, you want something to pick up and use in anything, a small wave board and a board when the waves are more powerful. Let's have a look at what the attributes of these are.

Daily Driver

The Toyota Corolla of your surfboard quiver – safe, reliable, gets the job done while putting a little smile on your face (have you driven a Corolla? Zero points for aesthetic, maximum points for knowing exactly what is it). Your daily driver is the board you sling under your arm to surf out-front. Or pop it in a board bag to travel to wherever. When looking for your daily driver, you're going to want to think about a board that can handle a range of conditions – from waist-high slop, up to head high.

These boards usually have a fuller outline – that's a wider center point and thicker rails – than your usual high performance shortboard, assuming you surf a usual high performance surfboard. This is a board that will get going in weak conditions, but isn't as chunky as the groveler, which is a specific type of board for mushy, crumbly slop. Examples of daily drivers are: JS Xero Gravity, Pyzel Phantom, CI Happy Everyday, Lost Subdriver.

Longboard or Groveler

Your small wave machine – a Toyota Prius, if you will. When the surf runs knee-high, weak and generally crappy, grab this board and go to town. Depending on what you surf will be your next choice of board. If you surf shortboards, day-in, day-out, this is where you enter the groveler – your safe haven when waves become a dribbly mess.

The characteristics of a groveler are often shorter, wider, thicker than your daily driver in order to get moving in the worst conditions. If you're into logging, you'll likely already be set for smaller waves. Most shortboarders prefer having a groveler to keep that performance elements of surfing when the waves aren't great. Examples of grovelers are: Pyzel Gremlin, Lost Puddle Jumper, CI Pod Mod, Firewire Ibolic Neutrino, Hayden Shapes Nova.

Related: How To Choose Surf Wax

Step-Up

Not quite a Ferrari in your quiver, more a Ford Mustang – but with an eco-boost engine. The step-up is for when waves get steeper, hollower and you need more oomph to your paddle. The differences between picking this up to paddle out, and your daily driver are simple: are the waves in the overhead plus range? Great, pick up your step-up. Yet, the step-up has seen somewhat of a decline in recent years. This could be due to the fact that daily driver boards are packed with so much tech nowadays that they can handle scenarios where you'd usually require a step-up.

Or it could be that the waves don't actually get that good frequently in your part of the world, to make up for the cash investment. But like most tools of any trade, there's the right one for the job and a step-up can become an essential part of your quiver. Especially if you want to feel the confidence boost a good wave board gives you in larger surf. If you've never ridden one before, the difference is immediate. Longer rail-line, sometimes thicker under the chest, which allows you to scratch into waves with a bit of meat on the bones. Step-ups are a great way to round out your quiver, especially if you're surfing in powerful waves. Examples of step-ups are: Firewire Spaceship, DHD Sweet Spot, Pukas Space Oddity, Lost Step Driver, CI Pro Step UP.

Bonus! Hybrid Shortboard and Step-Ups

If you're not quite ready to dip into a step-up, consider a hybrid shape to bridge the gap between a shortboard and step-up. These boards, billed as do it all shapes, offer a bunch of volume under the chest to increase paddle power and have a sleeker outline than a daily driver. The rocker is usually flatter too, allowing for some great down the line speed. Add this to your quiver to surf day-to-day waves and when it gets a bit more punchy out back. Examples are: Lost Crowd Killer, CI Faded Step-Up, Firewire Hydronaut, DHD Black Diamond.

Related: Which To Choose: PU Vs EPS Surfboards?

And so, as expected there are frequent quarrels amongst the crowd at Snapper.

It’s just part of life, like death and taxes and getting snaked at Snapper. But how one deals with all the drop-ins, that’s a different story. Do you stand back and take it? Do you yell and scream at the offending surfer? Or do you do what up-and-coming Queensland native Harry Martin did below, when he finally lost it with the constant snaking?

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“Snapper scraps,” @reeframed, who captured the clip, captioned it. “Bit of this going on the past couple days.”

Jacob “Zeke” Szekely, of course, chimed in on the clip, approving of Martin’s behavior. He wrote: “Hell yea, I love the action.”

For more on Harry Martin, he was recently picked up by hemp clothing brand Afends. Here’s his bio:

“Meet Harry Martin, 19 years old and born and bred in Burleigh. He’s one of those heads who always has a board in the car and no set plan, just chasing feeling over trophies. Clean lines, good energy, and waves that get you hyped, that’s what he’s about. Whether it’s a random slab off the highway or a dusty point a few hours too far, he’s usually on the road with a tight crew and that “see what we find” mindset. We’re stoked to officially welcome Harry to the Afends team.”

Related: Jamie O’Brien Pipeline Fight: ‘I’ll Pound You on the Beach!’ (Video)

Keep an eye out for this guy.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen surf rage at Snapper, not even close. A few years back, surf filmer Seb Chadwick chronicled a run of swell at the Superbank, along with the crazy amount of surf rage that came along with it. Chadwick stated:

“Welcome to the Superbank, a stretch of sand at the bottom of Queensland that is the training ground for some of Australia’s best male and female surfers. Hit with big cyclone swells in December through February, its March to May that sees constant swell that brings the Superbank to life for days at a time.

“This year, we were blessed with an incredibly good amount of swell leading up to the Gold Coast Pro. As the swell turned on, the pros turned up. If you weren’t a high-level surfer, then getting a wave wasn’t going to be easy.”

More Snapper scraps to come? The World Surf League is headed back to the Goldie for the third stop of the upcoming 2026 CT in May. Stay tuned.

Related: Watch: Surf Fights at Snapper Rocks

It will be manageable one minute, and the next, you’re practically drowning.

But for North Shore natives – like Koa Rothman and John John Florence – they’re used to this variability. And recently, although the waves haven’t necessarily been ideal in Hawaii, Koa and John paddled out in victory at sea conditions, attempting to find a few diamonds in the rough. And even for these two, the session was a tough one.

“John sent me a photo that looks like it was four feet,” Koa explains before paddling out. “And I get here, and it’s like 10 feet breaking on dry reef. It’s going to turn into a sick session. We waited all day for the swell to come down. It’s going to be fun.”

“Biggest swell of the year!” John adds.

Safe to say, this wasn’t one of those dreamy sessions somewhere between Log Cabins Rocky Point. The boys struggle through this one, rarely finding something makeable amidst the chaos. But they give it a go nonetheless.

Related: North Shore Flash Floods Turn Oahu Lineups Unrecognizable (Video)

As Nathan Florence recently noted, while documenting the extremely rainy month they’ve been having on the North Shore, “this February has probably been the worst February for waves that I’ve ever seen. Super weird winter. Probably what we deserve after last year’s February, which was like 25 or 30 days of nonstop crazy Pipeline. Not only has it been pretty bad conditions, but it’s been a massive rainy season.”

The ocean giveth and taketh.

Meanwhile, as the waves have been pretty mediocre recently on the North Shore, John has been spending time with his young son, Darwin. The two even caught some waves together, as seen from Alex, mama Florence, here. And that’s pretty rad.

Related: John John Florence Withdraws from the 2026 WSL Season

But the greatest surfer of all time was almost taken out of the New Zealand Open – a golf tournament in which Slater is currently competing as a Pro-Am Ambassador – before it even began, due to sleep-walking stumble down some stairs.

“I almost died,” Slater told the Otago Daily Times about the incident.

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"I woke up and basically sleepwalked to the other room,” he continued. “I didn’t know where I was, eyes closed, feeling the wall, and then I fell down the stairs. You know when you jolt awake with adrenaline? I’m so lucky."

The scare comes after Slater, 54, and his longtime girlfriend Kalani Miller recently announced the impending arrival of their second child together. The couple will be welcoming a girl this spring, who will join their son, 19-month-old Tao.

Related: Kelly Slater Is Going to Be a Dad (Again!) at 54 Years Old

Speaking about his growing brood, who joined him to the NZ Open, Slater told 1News:

“We got in, like, three nights ago, and it was straight into golf. We’ve just been in the local area here. Obviously, I was busy the last few days with everything going on at the tournament. They [Kalani and Tao] are getting a little time in. Our little guy is getting to jump in the pool. They have a heated pool and a little playground. He’s having a blast.”

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As for surfing in New Zealand, the World Surf League recently announced a swap, losing Jeffreys Bay, South Africa in place of the famed lefthander at Raglan on the Championship Tour. Will Slater be in attendance, even just as a spectator?

“Yeah, I’m not,” Slater told the newscasters, citing that he may be a little busy around the event window (May 15th-25th). “I’m having another child in early May, so…I think that’s a little more important in my world.”

Stay tuned here for Slater’s standing at the NZ Open.

Related: Where Does Kelly Slater Go When He Wants To Escape?

They were once believed to be legend; but scientists, and the use of modern technology, have proven their reality. In a new report from EcoNews, they show satellites over the Pacific Ocean detected, “average waves exceeded 19 meters (62 feet) and that some individual crests likely reached or surpassed 35 meters (115 feet).”

And that happened in December of 2024, the same swell that ignited Waimea Bay for the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, and the “day of the decade” at Maverick’s.

New satellite observations have recorded ocean wave heights of almost 20 metres – the highest measurement obtained by satellite altimetry since 1991 🌊

The findings have been validated using the Sea State dataset from ESA’s Climate Change Initiative. They reveal that long ocean… pic.twitter.com/C81GeOtaM4

— ESA Climate Office (@esaclimate) October 13, 2025

Per a press release regarding the findings from the European Space Agency:

“During recent storms, satellites recorded ocean waves averaging nearly 20 meters high – the largest ever measured from space. Moreover, satellite data now reveal that ocean swells act as storm ‘messengers’: even though a storm may never make landfall, its swell can travel vast distances and bring destructive energy to distant coastlines.”

Related: 80-Foot Rogue Waves Are Predictable...But Are they Rideable?

The largest waves were detected over the Pacific Ocean on December 21st, 2024. When it comes to surfing, and how those waves appeared once they hit land, the Eddie Aikau ran on December 22nd of that year, with Landon McNamara winning the iconic event. Then, a day later, the same swell slammed California, and Alo Slebir rode what many believed to be the biggest wave of all time. It officially clocked in a couple feet shy of the record.

Yet still, that swell was one for the books. Perhaps these scientists can be recruited for swell forecasting in some capacity? Cortes Bank strike? Maybe one day.

The search for the 100-foot wave has achieved mythical status in surfing, much like the existence of rogue waves once was amongst sailors. But now, armed with this new data via satellites, the 100-foot wave (and then some) is out there.

And so, one would think, it’s just a matter of time before it’s surfed.

Related: The Biggest Tsunami Ever Recorded: Inside the 1,720-Foot Wave (Video)

You’ve heard the statistics, like recently from actor Chris Hemsworth, who mused: “I heard one that more people die in America by shaking a vending machine, trying to get chocolate or whatever, out of it.” Valid? Perhaps.

Whether that’s true or not, who knows. But sharks and humans interacting, particularly in a violent way, is extremely infrequent. And when it does happen, it’s usually from the big three – great whites, bulls, and tigers. Hammerhead sharks, on the other hand, that’s tremendously uncommon. And yet, check out this foil surfer’s encounter below.

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The video comes from Adam Baber, foil surfing with one of those electric pulleys, in some undisclosed location. It shows the shark getting in Baber’s path, maybe bumping his board, then knocking him off his board. What follows is a terrifying situation in which the shark circles Baber, and a few moments of uncertainty as the shark debates its next move.

“Today a Hammerhead attacked my foil, knocked me off my board and then circled back on me eventually and thankfully changing his mind,” Baber wrote. “Sorry for my screaming I thought I was done for.”

Whether or not this would be considered an “attack” is up for debate, as many pointed out in the comments. Still, a scary experience nonetheless.

Related: Chris Hemsworth Surfs Through Shark ‘Feeding Frenzy’ in Australia (Video)

As for the statistics on hammerhead sharks, the International Shark Attack File reports there have been 18 unprovoked attacks and zero deaths from the species. Compare that to great whites, which have 292 attacks and 59 deaths.

According to National Geographic, here’s a snippet about their behavior:

“Most hammerhead species are fairly small and are considered harmless to humans. However, the great hammerhead's enormous size and fierceness make it potentially dangerous, though few attacks have been recorded.”

Related: Foil Surfer Dies After Shark Attack ‘Mutilation’ in New Caledonia

Hours of exposure in the sun, often in tropical locales, leads to wear and tear on the epidermis. I, myself, was diagnosed with Stage IV melanoma in 2021, which had spread to my lymph nodes. A year of immunotherapy, and a few surgeries later, I’m cancer free.

But that experience led to a lasting effort to protect my skin. A nice tan is cool and sexy, yet cancer is not. Hence, why a handful of surfers and influencers have entered the lucrative skincare industry, and one new brand is doing things a little bit different.

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Sunkissed by Heaven, a skincare brand created by influencer Jay Alvarrez and professional surfer Alex Smith, features a line of sunscreen “made only from edible ingredients.” The main ingredient? The incredibly buzzy cow fat phenom, beef tallow.

Not something you’d find in your typical SPF, let alone rub on your skin. But according to the brand, the bovine extract “strengthens the skin barrier.”

Related: Surfers Fight Social Media Influencer, Cops Called (Video)

Here’s the brand’s mission statement: “Born from a lifestyle of chasing the sun around the world, Sunkissed by Heaven is a creation by Jay Alvarrez — a vision for a new kind of skincare that works naturally, supporting inner resilience, and beauty from the inside out.”

And from Alvarrez himself: "I've always lived in the sun, and I wanted to create something raw, simple, and to the point without the chemicals or confusing additives. Sunkissed was made to be effortless and effective.”

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Beef tallow is currently enjoying a resurgence amongst wellness influencers, particularly when it comes to cooking. You can pick up a jar – along with a $19 single strawberry (no, that’s not an exaggeration) – at Erewhon on Abbot Kinney for $21.99.

As for skincare? It looks like there are uses there, too. According to the Mayo Clinic:

“Beef tallow also is regaining popularity for its versatility; in addition to being used in cooking, it also can be used on your skin!

“Since the composition of beef tallow is similar to natural oils produced by skin, it can be used as a moisturizer and is gentle on sensitive skin. CLA has anti-inflammatory benefits that help lock in moisture and reduce oxidation, which, along with the fat-soluble vitamins in beef tallow, may improve skin’s elasticity and overall healthy appearance when applied topically.”

Would you slather beef fat on your face? Shop here.

Unintentional Seussian slip right there, but that’s the way it goes with the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational – often called simply “The Eddie,” or more colloquially, “the world’s most prestigious contest,” or the “Super Bowl of surfing.”

It’s an event steeped in history, honoring the late, legendary Hawaiian waterman Eddie Aikau. Adding to its prestige, the contest has only run 11 times since in 40 years. Why? The requisite 40-foot waves at Waimea Bay. But last season, the swell showed up; and the North Shore of Oahu’s own Jamie O’Brien competed in the event, juicing the algorithm a bit with his video recap of the event, calling the swell in the 60-foot range.

“The Eddie Aikau is the Super Bowl [told ya] of surfing,” JOB narrates his vlog. “It is this day that comes out of nowhere once every few years. A big wave event that only runs when the wave faces reach 40-feet high. Eddie Aikau is a legend. He is an iconic waterman. He is everything every kid growing up in Hawaii is seeking to be. Eddie was a big wave pioneer and the first lifeguard on the North Shore of Oahu, who save hundreds of lives. The best big wave surfers on the planet come to Waimea Bay to honor Eddie’s legacy.”

If you’ve been lucky enough to be on Oahu when the Eddie runs, then you know how special – practically mystical – the event is. Both to locals, and outsiders.

“When The Eddie is on,” JOB continues, “everybody stops what they’re doing in Hawaii. Everyone drives over to Waimea Bay.”

Related: Landon McNamara Talks Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational Win

And the last time the event ran was on December 22nd, 2024; local boy Landon McNamara took home the win. His name was etched in the holy tablet of select-few surfers who have won the contest, forever celebrating his feat in the annals of surf history.

Fun fact: more people have stepped foot on the moon, than won The Eddie.

“To have my name amongst all those legends, that’s the best part of it all,” McNamara told SURFER after the win. “Especially having my name next to my best friend Luke [Shepardson]. These are the best surfers in the world. These are the surfers I look up to. They’re doing the most advanced things in big waves across the world. And now, two local boys who have put in the time and effort at this specific spot, that paid off.”

As for this year, there’s still time; the window runs through March 6th.

Fingers (and toes) crossed.

Related: 100 Years Ago: Blast from the Past at Waimea Bay (Photos)

So, from a photographic perspective, black and white isn’t likely your first choice but nevertheless I was stoked to demo the Leica M11 Monochrome over two weeks on Oahu’s North Shore. This February wasn’t exactly a good month for surf with strong NE winds and lots of rain.

The Leica M series isn’t really what you’d use to shoot surfing from the beach, you’d want something you could attach a long lens—like 400mm or more—to post up and snipe shots of the action. Given that there wasn’t much surf to shoot anyways, the M11 Monochrom felt like a great companion for the moody rainy days and downtime around the island. I used a 28mm f/2 Summicron which allowed me to be close to the action and still capture a lot in the frame.

As it happens when you’re having fun (and enjoying a new camera) the time flew by quickly but not before I could capture an array of moments that revolve around the surf-centric lifestyle of the North Shore. In my opinion, board building lends itself greatly to black and white images. Shaping rooms provide unique lighting and angles of subjects who are candidly consumed with their craft. 

The shaping room at the Center of Radical Education (CORE) plays host to a rotating bevy of world-class shapers who get to mow foam in the hallowed ground of Dick Brewer’s old shaping bay. In the past year the room has hosted shapers such as Josh Peterson, Ashton Pickle, Barrett Miller, Ryan Lovelace, and Jim Yarborough.

CORE also doubles as a creative studio and event space with the past month hosting “Friday Night Films”, organized by legendary lensman Eric Ippel to bring out the best photographers and filmmakers who are on the North Shore. 

Leica M3

While the M11 is Leica's latest in the famed M-series, the M3 is another camera I put to use around the North Shore. Shooting film, although expensive, provides another medium to experiment with capturing light and composing images.

Made from 1954-1966 it's an absolute classic and works amazingly even 60 years later.

Related: 3 Continents & Countless Smiles: Why The Leica Q3 Has Been My Camera of Choice

We’re not quite there, yet, but the wave pool business appears to be booming. Every other day, it seems, there’s a new pool being planned somewhere on the map.

So, in sticking with the skatepark analogy, it would make sense that wave pools would also become a private, at-home amenity, if things progress as they are, one day down the line. Like a backyard halfpipe…but make it surfing. Right?

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SurfLoch, a longtime player in the wave pool space, has announced a compact version of their pneumatic wave-making technology, specifically designed for private residences, boutique resorts, or space-constrained locations. The new model? GT100.

Per a press release: “SurfLoch, the pioneer in artificial wave engineering, announces GT100, the latest wave pool model in its quiver. GT100 delivers a compact design that preserves SurfLoch’s hallmark ocean wave authenticity while empowering developers to bring world class surfing into smaller footprints. GT100 was engineered for space-conscious ventures such as personal homes, and exclusive hotel partners.”

Related: What Is the ‘Wavebender’? Innovative New Surf Park Tech Unveiled

Here are the specs on the new pool:

• Fits in an Olympic 50 m pool (50m x 25m | 164 ft x 82 ft) and up

• Dedicated left and right primary waves

• Up to 2.5m (8ft) performance waves

• Ride times up to ten seconds

• Barrel and air sections – wave shapes can include hollow barrels, carving faces and ramping sections.

• Beginner-friendly zones alongside high-performance lines – allowing multiple skill levels to surf simultaneously and safely.

• Efficient, scalable power delivery – SurfLoch’s patented pneumatic driven caissons require no moving parts in the water and minimize energy consumption.

• Compressed footprint - Industry-leading and patented wave damping system and flexible beach designs enable accommodations to any site constraint, including add-ons to a preexisting pool (50m+).

• Optional secondary reef - Increased capacity for simultaneous advanced and beginner sessions; increased income at no extra energy cost.

As for the cost? Inquire here: sales@surfloch.com.

It also comes after SurfLoch announced another new technology, the WaveBender, which promises “ocean-like power and a uniquely sculptured wave face that bends toward the surfer creating a surfer’s dream wave.”

So, what do we think? Personal wave pools – just like at-home skateparks – in the near-future for those who can afford 'em? Stand by...going to check my bank statement.

Related: Surfing in Saudi Arabia? Manmade Wave Pool Emerges Like a Desert Mirage (Video)

There have been a few moments – a handful of windows with epic surf – but otherwise nothing too noteworthy…especially when compared to the nonstop swell last season.

And one thing recently, which has struck surfing’s most iconic coastline, is historic rains and flooding. Per Nathan Florence’s latest vlog, the North Shore took a beating as a result of the deluge, resulting in some unrecognizable scenes.

“Every once in a while, we get some crazy rains in Hawaii,” Nate narrates. “Not surprising because it’s a tropical place. But this February has probably been the worst February for waves that I’ve ever seen. Tons of east/northeast swell, and tons of trade winds coming from the east. And not the good type of trades, like, the light east winds and Pipe is all good with those west swells.”

Spots like Waimea Bay, where there’s a well-trodden waterway, were obviously prime targets for the flooding – like from Clark Little’s image below:

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Nate continues, that, while occasionally these strange conditions can create fun waves, this year has been different. Especially, as mentioned, compared to last year:

“So, the sand has been pushed back to where it was pre-winter. And that type of swell – while super fun to surf little waves – it’s no good for big Pipe and Backdoor. There have been days at the Outer Reefs, Jaws broke maybe once this year…super weird winter. Probably what we deserve after last year’s February, which was like 25 or 30 days of nonstop crazy Pipeline. Not only has it been pretty bad conditions, but it’s been a massive rainy season.”

Related: Waimea Bay Totally ‘Destroyed’ By Raging River Wave (Video)

Regarding the rains, and a little history lesson, he added:

“We get a lot of flash flooding. All the old rivers – a lot of our water got diverted a long time ago to feed the plantations and sugar cane – when it rains hard enough, those old rivers and streams start flowing again. And when they flow, it takes all that red dirt and debris and flushes it into the water. I’m hoping it doesn’t happen. It’s going to be poo brown water.”

Spoiler: it did happen.

Related: Surfing ‘50ft Biggest Swell of the Year’ Outer Reefs in Hawaii (Video)

The famed beach has been the source of controversy, over the years, due to human interaction with the famed sea lions, which perennially occupy the sand. People get too close, take selfies, disturb the natural habitat, etc. Thus, enforcement is required.

And this family went too far.

"The two children, a boy and a girl, they were throwing handfuls of debris, stones, dirt, sand, at the sea lions, and he forcefully, a couple of times, told them to stop, and they just didn't stop," photographer Jim Grant told CBS. "You can't just come here and do whatever you want. It's not the wild wild west, where you – this isn't your personal petting zoo. It's not SeaWorld. These are wild animals, and so they have a duty to the public as well, to try to keep them safe.”

Signage around the beach indicates a 20-foot distance requirement between humans and the marine mammals. Yet, that rule is often broken.

Reportedly, no citation was issued during the recent incident with the family from China.

Related: 12-Foot Bombs Detonate on San Diego’s Premier Surf Spot (Video)

“This is a friendly reminder that the sea lions are wild,” a San Diego City Park Ranger can be seen informing the crowds via megaphone.

The incident comes hot off the heels of La Jolla Cove landing in the number one spot for the United States on the list of world’s best beaches for 2026, via TripAdvisor. And this designation is sure to only increase the number of visitors to the beach annually.

Per TripAdivsor:

“At this beach surrounded by sandstone cliffs on the San Diego coast, the water is calm enough for travelers to enjoy diving and snorkeling. Walk along the rocky shore to spot large colonies of sea lions lounging in their natural habitat and looking after their pups, and have a picnic while soaking up the views of the ocean from the cliffs at sunset. If you visit at low tide, you’ll get to swim in the crystal clear tidal pools as well. You can also visit Sunny Jim's Sea Cave which is accessible via a tunnel. Visit early in the morning to find a parking space more easily.”

Related: ‘Arrest These Idiots’: Tide Pool Carnage Sparks Outrage in San Diego (Video)

Winter Storm Hernando – a so-called “bomb cyclone” – struck the eastern seaboard, bringing snow, flight cancelations, power outages, and more from New York City to Boston and beyond.

And while most people hunkered down for the storm, a handful of East Coast surfers shoveled out their driveways, and skidded to the beach.

Surfers like Ben Gravy, above, who scored at home in New Jersey amidst a snowstorm. At one point during the session, there was over two feet of snow on the sand. Yet, with cranking barrels courtesy of the 19ft at 11 seconds swell, they continued surfing.

“Winter Storm Hernando kind of came out of nowhere,” Gravy wrote. “We expected snow & we expected waves, but we had no way of knowing that we were going to wake up to a 19ft @ 11 second buoy reading & these type of extreme bomb cyclone conditions. Happy to make it through this one safe & sound with a few solid waves under our belts as the icing on the, very frozen, cake.”

Related: Surfers Ride Frozen Waves in New York: ‘Like Slushies from 7-Eleven’ (Video)

Elsewhere, in New York, local news caught up with a surfer after braving the stormy ocean. As expected, the reporter was shocked someone would surf in such conditions.

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“It was a dream out there!” the surfer said. “This is what we live for. The waves were three-to-four-feet with a nice offshore wind, so when the wind is blowing in that direction, it causes waves to curl. And you get those beautiful cylinders that you see on TV.”

The reporter was stunned: “A nor’easter is good for surfing? Who would’ve thought?”

And the surfer confirmed: “Yeah, a nor’easter is what we dream of. Usually, the waves can get up to six-to-eight-feet in the Rockaways. When it’s that big over there, they usually wrap around into Coney Island. We had a blast.”

Related: Surfer Rides Ice Chunk During East Coast Bomb Cyclone (Video)

While India is not likely to replace the Maldives as a bucket list surf destination, it is far more likely to produce phenomenal surfing talent. If the below film is any indication, the groms of Mangalore are hungry and driven and hope to someday surf like John John Florence. To support the future of Indian surfing, donate here.

India is first time going to compete in Asian Games in the upcoming one. And the Asian surfing championship last year was held in Mahabalipuram, India. The Surfing Swami Foundation and Karnataka Surf Association are working together to support the groms in their path to progression and development.

The film was sent to me by a friend on Instagram, Shahjahan Shah, who is helping to support the local children get their hands (and feet) on better equipment so they can progress. Shahjahan works in the Indian the prolific and famed Indian film industry, aka Bollywood, and discovered surfing while on location in the area for a production. Once he learned, he was hooked.

Like a true positive vibe warrior and all-around stoke lord, he quickly got involved by putting his skills to use to help others. "This tiny documentary speaks the story of these kids who are talented enough but with lack of appropriate surf equipments and surf boards. The surf association of Karnataka, India is working hard on getting them the right amount of funding to support them. Kindly please reach out if you would like to know anything more."

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Some may scoff at the idea of India of ever becoming a surf powerhouse, I would say it is only a matter of time. As more equipment flows in from travelers that are generous enough to leave boards behind, the kids will progress rapidly. Once the domestic surfboard industry develops further, well, then it will really be off the races.

It won't be long until India enters the chat.

Related: Visual Vacation: The Long Strange Trip of Chandler Borries

And during his press tour, which looks more like podcast appearances these days, one thing has repeatedly come up for the Australian actor: surfing.

In his latest audio interview, on the wildly-popular Smartless podcast, Hemsworth talked about surfing, specifically at home in Australia, and with regards to sharks.

Around the 50:27-minute mark, co-host Jason Bateman asked: “I’m in awe of your general manhood, and exposure to the elements, and things like that. So, down there in Australia, you’ve got the snakes, you got the spiders, you got the sharks…when you’re surfing, have you ever seen a dorsal fin?”

To which Hemsworth responded: “Oh yeah. When I first moved to Byron Bay, there was a string of shark attacks – two deaths, and one guy survived – in the space of two weeks. One out in front of my house, one 10 minutes south of me, and one five minutes north. I was like, ‘Where have I moved to? What have I done?’ This is crazy.’”

Recently, as was well-documented, there was a shark attack rampage in Sydney, Australia. That’s about a day’s drive to the south of Byron Bay. The spate of attacks included four in 48 hours, with one surfer losing a leg, and a young boy, his life.

Related: Shark Attack Survivor Loses Leg, Comes off Life Support: ‘Long Journey Ahead’

In spite of all this, Bateman wondered: “But you’re still paddling out?”

Hemsworth responded: “Yeah, when there were other people in the water. So, your chances are a little better. There was a period where there would be choppers going up and down the coastline. Just shark spotting. They’d have a siren on…it was like a feeding frenzy. The police would come down, and tell you to get out of the water. And everyone would be like, ‘I’m not getting out.’ Then each guy starts paddling in, and everyone’s like, ‘alright fine.’”

Bateman: “And these are the big daddies, right?”

Hemsworth: “Yeah, bull sharks and great whites are the most predominant.”

And yet, Hemsworth still noted the relative rarity of shark attacks, citing common statistical tidbits about sharks and other tragedies, while also adding a new one:

“I surf every day. You hear the statistics. It’s like getting hit by lightning. Or driving a car is worse. I heard one that more people die in America by shaking a vending machine, trying to get chocolate or whatever, out of it. I’m not sure if it’s true.”

Related: Chris Hemsworth Talks Surfing ‘Happy Place’ on Theo Von (Video)

No, not a new cast list for a surfing-style Love Island, but all these surfers do share a common thread. They have all had serious concussion issues throughout their career. It’s a relatively long list. It may also be the tip of the iceberg. Despite the relatively high profile of most of these surfers, surfing still has a hidden headache.

“The worst was when I didn’t feel like a surfer. Surfing wasn't a goal. My only goal was at some stage in the future to sit and have a coffee with a friend with no pain,” said Natxo Gonzalez. “That was the extent of my ambition.”

The Basque big-wave surfer suffered two concussions - the first at Puerto Escondido, then another six months later at giant Nazare in 2023. He kept surfing, with his career on the line, even winning big wave slab events. Until the pain got too much. He had five months in bed, suffering an endless migraine and was unable to turn the lights on, let alone go to the supermarket. 

Natxo’s injuries didn’t come from hitting his head. Most, like Owen Wright’s, stem from the “whiplash” movement as the head is jerked back and forth during a wipeout or from getting hit by waves. Also known as DAI (Diffuse Axonal Injury), it is caused when rotational or acceleration-deceleration forces shear and tear the brain's white matter nerve fibers, or axons. It can happen in high-speed car accidents, falls, or in shaken baby syndrome. It can also, we are finding out, in heavy wipeouts. 

And while the increased use of helmets will reduce impacts to the head, either from boards or hitting the reef, evidence on their ability to prevent concussions of this kind is limited.

Despite being one of surfing’s elite big wave surfers, Natxo had no one to turn to or very little information on the subject of his concussion. That is even though in the last few years, several professional surfers have gone through a similar period of pain, isolation and depression. 

Albee Layer has probably been the most consistent and honest in showing how a concussion can affect a life, and potentially end a big-wave career. Last year, he dropped In Depth, which explained how a concussion during the 2019 Jaws contest led to depression. “I was not myself a lot of the time. Depression, I had full mental breakdowns at times. It got to the point where I wanted to hurt myself. It was bad,” Surfer reported last year.

During these difficult years, Albee got treatment and sought help from other people who’d gone through head injuries, including former big-wave world record holder Shawn Dollar. The Santa Cruz surfer shared a mantra that helped Albee gain some self-awareness and put his issues into context: “It’s an injury, it isn’t you.”

"The hardest part is that no one understands it,” said Stirling Spencer in his criminally underrated film, Are You Serious? “ If people understood, I could've healed in probably two years. It's been five years, and I'm probably 50 per cent."

Related: What's The Right Surf Helmet For You?

In that film, Spencer Traumatic shows how he was eventually diagnosed with Brain Injury (TBI) and post-concussion syndrome, after being hit in the head by the fin of a surfboard. What followed the incident was a spiral into suicidal depression, before he found a doctor, Dr. J. Douglas Brown, who helped his recovery and effectively saved his life. 

Natxo was facing a similar traumatic journey. A local doctor had advised that his surfing career was effectively over, and he couldn’t find any solutions. It was after watching Spencer’s film that he fought for better answers. He made a call to his sponsor, Red Bull and came clean on the extent of his injurym which he’d been hiding. They backed him, and more importantly, put him in touch with specialists who offered both a diagnosis and a way out. His recent performances at Mullaghmore and Morocco this winter have shown that he is back to full capacity. 

“I still believe many surfers are having micro impacts and concussions every surf,” he said, “and so that over time that has to have a massive impact.” The clinical studies and reporting of the issue are, however, thin on the ground. 

Related: World Champion Surfer Undergoes Brain Surgery After Surfboard Fractures Skull

In 2024, a study titled Concussion Incidence, Mechanism, and Perspectives Among Elite Australian Surfers, was done at Surfing Australia’s High Performance Centre. It found 13 of the 40 participants had a history of diagnosed concussion, and 95% reporting potential symptoms after wipeouts, with "contact versus the water surface" identified as the primary mechanism. 

Many surfers reported symptoms consistent with concussion but were not formally diagnosed, suggesting a gap in awareness and medical attention. The study recommended specific cervical and vestibular testing, which are more detailed concussion tests, as a means of injury prevention.

In the USA, a 20-year analysis of surfing head and neck injuries at Emergency Departments showed that while there was a decrease in overall injuries, the concussion rates remained steady at 5% of admissions, and rose to 8% for those under 20s. 

Again, the studies are useful, but would only be capturing a small percentage of concussions incurred while surfing. Surfers who have copped a few holddowns at Blacks, or spent a winter packing closeouts at Puerto Escondido, rarely report to a medical facility, even if they suspect they had a concussion. 

The number of surfers out there who are suffering, or who have suffered, the effects of concussion and brain injuries is absolutely mind-boggling. Big wave and elite surfers might well be over-represented, but even a tiny slice of the world’s surfing population having a concussion adds up to huge numbers dealing with the issue. 

Surfing has a headache. It’s not going away anytime soon. 

The Scandinavian country trounced traditional winter-sports nations with far larger populations, such as China (1.4bn), Germany (84m), Italy (59m) and Canada (40m).

The question is how?  And a supplementary question: what’s it got to do with surfing? “The answer isn't genetics, altitude, or cold weather. It's philosophy. And it starts not with elite athletes, but with eight-year-olds,” said Justin Fleming, an elite athlete performance coach.

Now, at this stage, you might be thinking that success has come through talent identification, elite funding pathways and access to high-performance coaching from as early as possible. In surfing, we’ve probably all seen the mini-groms doing heat drills, getting videotaped by parents and coaches, all dreaming of a far-off-in-the-distance CT career.

“Norway made a different choice,” continued Fleming. “Before age 13, scorekeeping isn't just discouraged — it's prohibited. Trophies, when they're given at all, go to every participant. The national philosophy for youth sport has a name: Idrettsglede — the joy of sport.”

Idrettsglede is the cornerstone of Norway’s youth sports ecosystem, called the Children’s Rights in Sport. First introduced in 1987, it established fundamental rights and specific provisions that regulate competition for all children in Norway.

Related: Surfers Outraged at New Olympic Qualification Path: ‘Complete Disrespect’

In addition to the no trophies and scoring, there are no national competitions, meaning kids play only local leagues, no online publishing of results and/or athlete rankings and children are free to switch teams or clubs mid-season with no penalty.

In the USA, it’s a very different picture. The youth sports industry is a multibillion-dollar industry, as private equity firms have bought up leagues and tournaments, creating a hyper-competitive pay-to-play model, intent on creating a pipeline directly from youth sports to professional sports. The machinery of elite sport now reaches into elementary school. A child who doesn't commit to a single sport by middle school is already, in some circles, considered behind.

“For the money, kids get pro-level coaching, careful dietary monitoring from nutritionists, and mental performance labs that look like they were built to train astronauts, not volleyball players,” wrote Vice, in a recent investigation. “It’s all a part of the new American dream. You can’t just play the game to have fun with friends.”

Looking at surfing as an example, the 2025 NSSA National Championships saw surfers from all over the country travel to Huntington. The youngest division was the Under 10s for boys and girls. Now boys winner, Hawaiian Jojo Cinco, is an incredible talent who clearly loves surfing and is backed by supportive parents and the North Shore community.

Related: USA Surfing Just Named a New Commissioner, And Kelly Slater Approves

And the NSSA model has been integral to every USA champion from Kelly Slater, Carissa Moore and John Florence. If Cinco were Norwegian, though, he’d only be competing with friends at home and purely for fun until he was 13. From that stage, he could decide with his parents if he wanted to go down a more specialised, high-performance pathway. He may be the exception, but how many talented surfers either get burned out by competition or have parents who can’t afford the investment and, once lost to the system, can’t get back in?.

“We can either instil a love of sport in our youth, or we can turn sport into a burden where kids are exhausted, stressed, and scared,” wrote Steve Magness, an innovative coach to some of the top distance runners in the world. “We’ve seen this go both ways, and the results couldn’t be more different. One leads to happy, healthy, and better young athletes. The other leads to burnout, family tension, mental health challenges, and quitting.”

The stats back it up. Studies show that 93% percent of Norwegian children participate in youth sports. In the United States, that number is closer to half — and falling. By age 13, 70% of American kids have quit organized sport entirely.

“The most common reason they give isn't injury, cost, or time. It's that it stopped being fun. We are, quite literally, coaching children out of the game,” wrote Fleming.

Now, the Norway model isn’t exactly easy to replicate. In 2025, Norway’s sovereign wealth fund (generated by profits from its nationalised oil exports) was valued at over $2 trillion, translating to roughly $340,000 per citizen. This money is invested in various assets, and the annual returns are used to support Norway’s social model — healthcare, education, pensions, and a large investment in youth sports. Having this amount of cash, spread about a small population, is an advantage.

However, if other countries, and individual sports like surfing, can’t replicate the Norway model, they should at least learn from it. The Winter Olympics Medal Table is just the latest data set that shows the science is clear.

If we can delay specialization, encourage multi-sport participation, lower costs, and keep the emphasis off results at young ages, it will produce healthier kids and, over time, better athletes. This applies to all sports, including surfing.

Let the kids be kids. And let 'em go surfing for fun. Doesn’t seem that difficult.  

Hey Dibi… I have two kids in their twenties. My daughter, who is the eldest, had a few tough years, but now has a good job and we speak comfortably about everything a couple of times a week. My son, who’s 24 is another story. We used to surf together and have some great times, he quit surfing in his late teens and now we rarely talk on the phone, and it seems like he can’t wait to hang up. I spoke to my ex, and she said she rarely hears from him either. I’ve got some vacation time coming up, do you think I should try and plan a surf trip with him? - Indo Dad
Hey Indo Dad… Sounds like he may have other interests if he hasn’t surfed in more than a handful of years. Perhaps finding out what those interests are is a good place to start recreating a new relationship. Twenties can be a difficult time figuring out who you are as an adult and pushing you away may be a way for him to feel independent. A surf trip may sound fun to you but the idea of spending that much time together for him where’s he’s presently at maybe too much. Why don’t you plan a day trip doing something you both enjoy but he can go home when it’s over and not feel like it’s a forced “good time”. Give him some space to grow and be willing to learn about his interests so you can share a common language and get reacquainted with the man your son is becoming.

Hey Dibi… What happens to surf identity when everyone becomes a “surf influencer” - Asking For A Friend
Hey Asking For A Friend… I didn’t know surf had an “identity” … Individual surfers do and that’s changed over the decades like everything else. If you go back to the early days of 100+ pound wood boards and no leashes the physical requirements of surfing were completely different and the field of people who could enjoy it were a very select group of watermen. As we’ve marched through time and people pay for an hour’s session in a wave pool where paddling and even swimming are optional you have a different type of surf enthusiast. I think one of the coolest things about surfing is people can enjoy it for what it is to them, a completely unique personal experience. As far as a surf influencer, I’m not clear on what you’re referring to, there’s been movies, magazines, contests, books, music all promoting the glory of surfing and now with modern technology individuals are sharing their own stories, it’s all part of the progression. Can we be nostalgic for what seemed like a simpler time, of course, but it seems to be full speed ahead, so enjoy the Ride!

Related: Hey Dibi: How Do You Start A Surf School?

Hey Dibi… Has surf culture lost its rebellion, or just evolved? - Surf Punk
Hey Surf Punk… Kinda’ hard to see the rebellion when there’s a million Ebikes parked at every break, with every kid shooting content on thousand dollar I Phones, custom made boards and the latest  3 mil winter flexible suits. The parking lots are filled with Sprinters, Land Rovers, Tesla’s and a smattering of other expensive drives. It doesn’t quite give off that punk vibe that was prevalent in the early days when surfing was in its infancy. But nothing stays static and certainly with the huge growth in the last three decades surfing has changed from a lifestyle to a sport and lost some of the grit that was part of its growing pains.

Hey Dibi… When does style become more important than substance in surfing? - Play It Smooth
Hey Play It Smooth… I’m a bit unclear on your use of the word “substance” … I’m assuming you are referring to “technical expertise” … if not you can DM me again. Here’s what I have to say.  When we think back to the images from the archives of surf media  that have captivated the publics attention and grown the surfing population to what it is globally today, they are all of people who were beyond technically proficient they  were the few  who had that something nebulous that can’t be taught, copied, or adequately explained by themselves or anyone else. It’s STYLE, it comes from within them as effortlessly as breathing and makes the images timeless. There are only a few in every generation, but they are the ones that stay in the mind’s eye to remind why surfing will always be more than a just a sport.

Related: Hey Dibi: Is There Life After Surfing?

“Our primary finding,” says URI Professor of Oceanography Isaac Ginis, “is that hurricane-generated ocean currents can substantially reduce both the height and the dominant period of hurricane waves. The magnitude of wave reduction depends strongly on how accurately ocean currents are predicted.”

In other words, the only way to get a clear and accurate forecast of wave heights is to couple wave-ocean models. Without it, oceanographers (and surf forecasters) can’t possibly account for the buffering that takes place in ocean currents, where conveyor belts of water can run at several knots, severely altering a swell almost like a reef, a mangrove, or a low-lying barrier island.

Related: Rare ‘Super’ El Niño Is Coming This Year, Expert Says (Video)

According to Ginis, who conducted the research alongside URI GSO student (now Ph.D.) Dr. Angelos Papandreou and professor Tetsu Hara, waves are most strongly reduced by currents that the storm meets on their front-right quadrant—often dubbed “the dirty side” by meteorologists—where wind, waves, and currents tend to be strongest.

“On the front-right side of a hurricane, storm-driven currents move in the same direction as the waves. This causes the waves to travel more quickly through the high-wind region. Because the waves spend less time being energized by the wind, they do not grow as large as they otherwise would.”

This, of course, has implications for how forecasts might be read along different coasts, which, depending on storm direction and how “the dirty side” interacts with currents ahead of making land, might experience vastly different wave height reductions.

“This work has strong potential for operational use because we use the same wave and ocean models—WAVEWATCH III and MOM6—that are already part of the National Weather Service’s HAFS hurricane forecast system,” Ginis argued in a URI post spotlighting the report. “Our findings could be incorporated without major changes to existing forecasting tools. Our group has a long history of working with NOAA scientists, and results from our previous studies have already been implemented in operational hurricane models.”

Ginis et al.’s hopes are that the team’s research, which was funded by the National Oceanographic Partnership Program/Office of Naval Research, will be put to use by weather services to better predict waves during hurricanes for myriad reasons—including, for good or ill, a better surf report for one and all.

Across the province, more than 1,200 homes have been destroyed, with widespread collapse of trees and power lines as winds of up to 215 km/h (134 mph) were recorded in Inhambane. Prior to making landfall in Mozambique, Gezani had already left destruction in its wake in Madagascar, where it decimated the port city of Toamasina, killing 59 people.

Mozambican professional surfer Sung Min “Mini” Cho, who hails from Tofo, said the atmosphere in Tofo was surprisingly positive following the storm: “After [Cyclone] Dineo everyone knew what the worst looks and feels like, and this wasn’t that, which was good for the spirits,” he said. “The heart of Tofo wasn’t as heavily affected as the rural areas - lots of locals lost houses, roofs and belongings.” Tropical Cyclone Dineo hit Tofo in February 2017, the first major cyclone to make landfall in the Inhambane province in a decade. That cyclone affected 650 000 people, killing seven.

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Mozambique is at particular risk from the effects of climate change, with an already volatile subtropical climate worsened by increased frequency and intensity of extreme weather events. The southern part of the country, which includes Inhambane, was already grappling with the effects of severe flooding in January that displaced more than 100 000 people. The Southern African region experienced its average annual rainfall in 10 days, something World Weather Attribution (WWA) described as "unprecedented". Tropical Cyclone Gezani has compounded this damage and expanded the zone in need of repair.

The floods caused the collapse of the main highway connecting the Mozambican capital, Maputo, with the north of the country, halting tourism and restricting the delivery of crucial supplies and driving up the cost of food, fuel and gas. With more than 90% of homes in Mozambique made from a natural material called adobe, and with already limited infrastructure to respond to weather events, Mozambicans are left vulnerable in the face of a changing climate. Despite contributing very little to global climate emissions, Mozambicans continue to bear the brunt of the worsening climate situation. “Poor housing quality and inadequate infrastructure significantly increased exposure and vulnerability to flooding,” the authors of a WWA report into the flooding told Mongabay.

Related: World’s Top Tube-Riding Surf Contest Goes Global

While surf tourism in Mozambique has grown in recent years, frequent weather events and bouts of political instability have made the sustainability of the surf tourism economy difficult. In 2024, political protests following a national election led to a temporary drop in tourism as areas became inaccessible due to the unrest. While Inhambane was largely shut down to tourists, a swell hit that delivered all-time surf for the locals.

Now, as cyclone recovery efforts continue, lingering swell has lit up the much-loved local point in Tofo, bringing surfers back to the Indian Ocean.

“It’s been a tough start to the year for Mozambique with all these natural disasters,” Mini said. “We’re ok and we’re building back up,” he added.

That, however, is all about to change.

A brand-new surf lagoon, much like a mirage in the desert, has emerged in Saudi Arabia. Endless Surf, the manmade wave-making company behind Germany’s 02 SurfTown Muc, has provided a first-look at their latest development at the Red Sea entertainment and adventure venue, known as Adrena. Check out the sneak peek below.

“Located on the pristine shores of western Saudi Arabia, ADRENA sits just a short drive from Red Sea International Airport and the acclaimed Shura Island, home to a growing collection of luxury resorts,” a press release announced. “The Endless Surf lagoon introduces an authentic saltwater wave pool experience to a venue designed around adrenaline and active lifestyle pursuits. Alongside this signature surf attraction, ADRENA blends a dynamic mix of land and water-based experiences set against a striking coastal backdrop.”

Related: Saudi Arabia Unveils 215-Meter 'Insane New Surf Park' Powered by Endless Surf (Video)

Some specs on the pool: It features Endless Surf’s latest ES36 technology; the pool measures 215 meters (700 feet) long; it can produce waves up to 2.1 meters (6.8 feet); there are all different types of waves, catering to all skill levels of surfers; it will utilize saltwater from the Red Sea, offering a sustainable, real-life ocean feeling; and more.

In addition to the surf lagoon, Adrena comes with all the bells and whistles, specifically catering to the adrenaline junkie crowd, including: “a wakeboarding lake, a skate and BMX park, a FlowSurf stationary wave, snorkel trails, cliff jumping, 10-meter slip ‘n’ fly slides, a multilevel Aquaplay structure, zip lines, rock climbing challenges, obstacle courses, and dedicated areas for beach sports and relaxation.”

This also comes as other synthetic surf parks are emerging in the Middle East – there’s the Kelly Slater Wave Company’s Surf Abu Dhabi, and a Bahrain pool in the works. As for Endless Surf, they’ve got a few others coming down the pipeline, too; one in Rio de Janiero, Brazil, another in Florida, one coming to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, and more.

Adrena officially opens to the public on March 1st.

Related: World’s Biggest Endless Surf Wave Pool Coming to Brazil

The resulting fracas was retaliatory, a backlash between gang members and authorities.

But much of the activity was in popular tourist hotspots – like Puerto Vallarta – where many foreigners vacation. There were also images of burned-out vehicles, acting as blockades, in other frequently visited areas, like Baja. The U.S. State Department has issued travel advisories for certain regions, but what’s it like on the ground?

Baja surf photographer Jesús “Chuy” Salazar gave this advice:

“The recommendation, as for now, is to stay put. It is a major thing here, all schools closed out. My insight is that roads that take you either to the airport or to the border are the ones that were targeted for media attention. That’s my guess. As for now, I recommend to stay home.

“If people do decide to come my, advice would be to reach their destination without stopping, drive during day time, and always stay alert.”

Related: Mexico Erupts into Chaos as Cartel Leader ‘El Mencho’ Killed

Sage wisdom while traveling in most places, not just Mexico, and during any time.

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For another perspective, we hit up a Canadian surfer, traveling in his van through Mexico, and currently stationed to the south of Puerto Vallarta. Here’s his report:

“All good here in La Saladita. Last night, we weren’t sure how the situation would be. Zihuatanejo, which is the nearest city, there were some cars being burned…but nothing compared to Guadalajara and PVR [Puerto Vallarta]. All the businesses were closed early and everybody was just staying inside.

“Seems like today it’s calmer. La Saladita is business as usual and everyone is out surfing. Most of the crazy shit going down was central Mexico near Guadalajara, the state of Jalisco and surrounding states.

"I think most cities are closed. I just talked to a friend in Puebla and she said everything is closed. People are just not taking the risk and staying inside. Here is fine but it’s getting here or to any surf town. Major highways can be unpredictable and that’s where things are happening.”

TL;DR:

Maybe reconsider any immediate travel to Mexico. In the future? Should be fine.

Related: Should I Cancel My Surf Trip To Mexico This Year?

Every year Mexico is one of the top travel destinations for Americans with over 36.8 million visitors in 2024 alone. While surfers only make up a fraction of this number, the love for Mexico runs deep within the American surf community.

With great surf spots dotting the thousands of miles of coastline from Baja Norte all the way down through Chiapas, at any given time there may tens of thousands of American surfers in Mexico. The recent outburst of violence in Puerto Vallarta over the weekend, which consistently ranked as one of safest places for Americans--likely has many people reconsidering their travel plans.

If you have immediate travel plans, especially with your family, it could be a good time to reconsider and let things cool down.

Related: Mexico Erupts into Chaos as Cartel Leader ‘El Mencho’ Killed

When will it be safe to travel to Mexico?

It's too soon to tell exactly when the current security issues will subside as contacts on the ground in Puerto Vallarta have reported that they are currently sheltering in place and flights have been paused. Within a few days, flights may resume, but would-be travelers, especially those with children, may choose to wait until things have calmed down further. If your plans are for later this year, you should hopefully be fine.

It is important to remember that episodes such as these are rare and that peace is essential to the massive tourism industry on which so many people rely. We advise paying close attention to U.S. State Department and U.S. Embassy warnings. If possible, consult with the hotels or resorts you're planning to stay at, as well as the airline you'll be flying with. Additionally, friends or contacts on the ground may provide the type of information that's hard to find online. Exercise an abundance of caution, and if something doesn't feel right, there's no shame in hitting pause on the trip until things cool down. Airlines are starting to refund tickets, and it's probably not long before resorts or Airbnb do the same.

Related: Big Wave Surfers Score 25-Foot Todos Santos: ‘As Good As It Gets’ (Photos)

If you're in Mexico already, there are a number of things you can and should do. A number of shelter-in-place orders have been issued. Heed those orders and don't be part of the problem. Don't play tourist or try to hit the street and capture content for Instagram. This is an incredibly dangerous situation, especially for U.S. Citizens. Limit your exposure to heavily populated or trafficked areas where things may pop off. Always be aware of your surroundings and try to blend in as much as possible.

If you must travel, only drive by day and head directly to where you are staying. There are reports of roadblocks throughout Mexico; approach these with extreme caution and avoid them if at all possible. When it comes to dudes with machine guns in green fatigues, it's not always easy to tell who the good guys are in Mexico, best to avoid those situations all together.

Finally, be smart. If you're currently south of the border, don't travel at night and minimize your movement in general, stay close to home and don't be going out and partying. This isn't the time for any of that nonsense. Be safe, be smart, and come back to surf another day.

Related: U.S. Issues Travel Warning for Popular Mexico Beach Towns

The unnamed 55-year-old man, who worked as a doctor, was wing foiling on February 22nd in the scenic bay of Anse Vata, near Pointe Magnin, in Nouméa.

He suffered fatal injuries to his arms and legs. Below, see a statement from the local government.

Local news reported:

“According to firefighters, he was spotted by an individual driving by boat and saw the mutilated body of the victim, who apparently had already passed away. It was the rescuers who brought the deceased's body back to the beach.

“More than a dozen police officers have been deployed to protect the area and support the family. Relatives of the victim were also at the scene. They have been taken care of.”

As of now, the species of shark involved has yet to be determined.

Related: Deadly Shark Attacks Spike at Beaches ‘Popular with Surfers’ (Report)

Regarding his injuries, another news site reported he had “significant injuries to his right leg as well as wounds to his left shin and right forearm,” as well as “bite marks” to his board. However, "the circumstances of this attack remain undetermined, in the absence of any direct witnesses.”

According to the International Shark Attack File, there have been 24 confirmed unprovoked shark attacks on New Caledonia since the year 1580. That’s not much, considering the top countries include the United States and Australia, with 1,698 and 744 respectively. Also, to put New Caledonia’s number into perspective, Iran has 23 – so, there’s that.

This does come, however, following a spate of shark attacks on the east coast of Australia. New Caledonia is about 1,200 miles away from Sydney, Australia – where four bull sharks happened in the span of 48 hours recently – as the crow flies.

Shark attacks remain rare, no matter where you are in the world.

Related: Bull Shark Mauls Dolphin in Sydney: ‘Is This Normal?’ (Video)

The breakfast buffet is stuff of legend amongst veteran Gliding attendees, truly the best in town, and that’s where I reconnected with Ambrose McNeill for the first time in nearly a decade. Ambrose’s story is its own epic poem, one that will be shared more in the lead up to his Single Fin Mingle this March 26-29 in Somner, New Zealand. 

It was through Ambrose that I met Bradley Mervyn King, a close friend of his from NZ, whom I found instantly fascinating. Standing well over 6 feet tall with fast guy shades and long, sandy blond hair flowing from underneath a hat that read HOWL, in reference to Allen Ginsburg’s seminal poem (for our younger readers), and jean shorts. Soft-spoken but with a distinct voice and accent and a way of moving, thinking, and being that had me thinking,  “Fuck yes, this guy’s got to be good.”

Little did I know how legendary of a lad I had just met as we strolled out from breakfast and past the medieval tower** that’s next to the hotel. Our small group set off on foot to cover the 10 minute walk to the ferry that crosses the harbor to Praia Cabedelo, where Gliding takes place. Along the walk I learned a bit more about my two new accomplices and caught up with Ambrose on his life and journey since we last met. 

Turns out Brad is a musician and is part of a popular kiwi band called The Butlers, check him out in the video below. Also, it turns out that Brad rode his bike to Portugal from London, I was so incredulous I had to double take, “You rode your bike here?!”

“Yeah, I rode my bike here.” 

I imagined he meant Lisbon, at best, but I had to ask, "From where?"

"London."

"Holy shit, for real! You must be a big cyclist then, yeah?"

He laughed. "Honestly, no. I just picked it up a couple weeks ago as a way to enjoy England without having to spend so much money in London--I was going broke."

Related: “Love Is Everywhere”: The Living Art of Gliding Barnacles

It wasn’t until after that festival that I began to dive into The Butlers and I was quickly hooked. I was making dinner and found myself dancing and bobbing along to the tunes. 

Call it indie rock or whatever you will but four-piece band from Somner, New Zealand has lyrics and rhythm that truly sound original on tracks like “Vodka’s What You're Drinking” and “No Good Nina”. In the mystic “Leopard of Sweet Dreams”, I almost found myself having psychedelic flashbacks, you know, good ones.

If it’s any indicator of their success in NZ, I heard two of their tracks play in the span of two hours while I hung in a hip Auckland bar awaiting my flight home. 

If you’re looking to spice up your playlists with some surf rock meets jazzy poetry, check out The Butlers on Spotify, Apple Music, or Youtube.

Related: A Surf Check for the Ages: Chasing Waves With Two of Europe’s Most Iconic Surf Photographers

Following the tactical operation, El Mencho was known as one of Mexico’s most-wanted criminals, with a $15 million bounty on his head from the United States, as a result of his gang’s alleged involved in trafficking drugs like fentanyl across the border.

And following the crime boss’ death, chaos erupted in tourist and surfing hotspots like Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. See some of the scenes below.

The United States and & Consulates in Mexico issued the following warning on X:

“Mexico: Due to ongoing security operations and related road blockages and criminal activity, U.S. citizens in the following locations should shelter in place until further notice: Jalisco State (including Puerto Vallarta, Chapala, and Guadalajara), Tamaulipas State (including Reynosa and other municipalities), areas of Michoacan State, Guerrero State, and Nuevo Leon State.”

Videos circulating on social media showed smoke billowing in the popular tourist beach town of Puerto Vallarta, burning vehicles serving as roadblocks, and frantic workers and passengers running through airports. Air Canada has canceled flights.

There have been reports of incidents elsewhere in Mexico, as well, including just over the border in Baja. Images of burned out cars, blocking roads have been shared by Baja Agave Expeditions with the following warning:

"I highly recommend not traveling today if you're in Baja California or BCS.

"I refuse to bury my head in the sand and pretend that nothing is happening, and have a responsibility to share this information with my audience."

Related: Mark Zuckerberg’s $300m Superyacht Spotted at ‘Mexico’s Surf Capital’

Jalisco Governor Pablo Lemus Navarro wrote:

“We recommend staying in your homes until the situation is under control. We are in full coordination with the federal government regarding the operation they carried out in Jalisco.”

Puerto Vallarta, although not exactly a surf town itself, more of a cruise ship stop, is in the vicinity of many popular waves. Spots like Punta Mita and Sayulita to the north; then, to the south, there’s a handful of other spots worth exploring. For many traveling surfers, Puerto Vallarta is the starting point of their wave-chasing journey in this slice of Mexico.

This is a developing story.

Related: U.S. Issues Travel Warning for Popular Mexico Beach Towns

Spring is still a great time to be a surfer, the days are getting longer, the water is heating back up, and we still get some of that swell, which makes a bee-line for shore, just not as brutish as the depths of winter.

Throughout March, there are lots of places that can tickle your surfing fancy, the southern hemisphere is starting to wake up as the emphasis for good surf shifts from this half to the other one. Here's the top bets of where to surf in March.

Taghazout, Morocco

The ancient kingdom or Morocco has long been a melding pot of trade-routes and beautifully chaotic souks. It's a sort of cross-roads for the world, and right in the heart of all that, is an absolutely stunning coastline which spans more than 3,000 kilometers. There are probably more world-class waves per surf zone that just about anywhere else on the planet across this west African country. March is a great month to visit Morocco as there's still swell in the North Atlantic, and the right-hand pointbreaks do not need a lot to get cooking. You can always head to Taghazout then head further north, or south, to find waves of equal standing as the fabled Anchor Point, with one tenth the crowd-size.

Chicama, Peru

One of the longest waves in the world, Chicama is a left-hand marvel that can run for a couple of kilometers. With the southern hemisphere starting to spin up in March, more south swells will start to filter up to Peru, setting off Chicama for an early-season swell run. Chicama actually works best on a south west swell, so you'll be wanting to keep an eye out for storms in the South Pacific, which have the potential to send mid-to-large sized swells to South America.

While March is before the deeper storms of winter in the southern hemisphere, it's still an active month for weather activity. Plus, you get the bonus of skipping the crowds of Chicama, who may be waiting to strike when the swell season gets spinning. During March, you will also get lighter winds – statistically anyway. Just make sure you surf in the morning before the wind comes up.

Southern Atolls, Maldives

The Maldives are usually sat on the top of any surfer's bucket list – and for great reason. Warm water, brilliant waves and the opportunity to get lost for a while amongst other sun-kissed travelers. But why go to the Maldives in March? Well, the Indian Ocean has begun to stir, driving swells across the bottom half of the world and fanning them out to large swathes of that part of the globe. These swells are not giant, like what you get in winter, but offer playful swell to the southern atolls of the Maldives. Waves like Castaways, Blue Bowls and Tiger Stripes will start to shine in March. Plus the water is 84F, you can surf from morning til dark and beat the hubbub of the later season.

East Coast, Australia

March marks the early start of the swell season for Australia's east coast. Spots like Snapper Rocks will start to spring to life, as most of the coastline laps up swells out of the southern ocean. During major cyclones, you can connect barrels from Snapper all the way to Kirra. But there's more to the east coast than the Goldie. Head a bit further north to the Sunshine Coast and Noosa heads. Drive south to the more mellow waves of Byron Bay – and then head further down to Victoria and the iconic Bells Beach. Wherever you chose to end up, March can be a fabulous month to experience what the east coast has for you. Expect all kinds of waves across this diverse coastline.

Bali, Indonesia

March acts as a weather transitional period for Bali, the wet season – which runs from October to March – is coming to an end, which means the rains will finally easy up after traditionaly heavy rainfall throughout January. As with most spots on this list, the southern half of the globe is about to get an adrenaline shot in March, ramping up for the start of the surf season. Spots like Keramas could see great consistency across the month – as swells begin to wrap around to the east side of Bali.

Because March is technically a shoulder month between seasons, the water may still be relatively quiet, compared to the height of the southern hemisphere swell season. Expect waves to be smaller and more manageable, without the chaos of the busty season. Bonus, there's a few festivals in March across Bali too, with the Balinese New Year taking part in the middle of the month and Nyepi Day the day after – which is an island-wide slow down encouraging moments of reflection. March can be a real mix of great surf and cultural exploration, if you choose to make the mission.

And recently, the official body handling the surfing portion of the Olympics – the International Surfing Association – released an updated path to qualification.

Safe to say, the surfers aren’t happy with it.

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There are a few changes of note, which are the cause for backlash. Specifically, the new road to qualification lessens the number of surfers from the 2028 World Surf League Championship Tour, putting more emphasis on the 2028 ISA World Surfing Games.

24 men, and 24 women will still qualify. The surfers per gender, per country, will also increase to three – rather than just two in the previous Olympic games. The surfing portion of the 2028 Summer Olympics will be held at Lower Trestles in San Clemente, CA.

But, when it comes to the World Surf League route to competition, there will only be 10 surfers (five men, five men) who qualify. Whereas before, at Paris 2024, it was 10 men and eight women from the Championship Tour. Thus, the outrage.

Related: Colin Jost Demoted from 2026 Olympics After Surfing Stint in Tahiti (Video)

“Consistency at the highest level is what defines competitive surfing. The @wsl Championship Tour is where that happens, and the @olympics qualification pathway should more strongly reflect that.” – Erin Brooks

“Complete disrespect on the way you guys conducted this, absolutely sad for our sport and future generations of surfers.” – Yago Dora

“Wow! And the worst is the way all of this situation was conducted by you guys!” – Filipe Toledo

“Completely disagree with this qualification system. The qualification system in the last 2 Olympics worked perfect. Having 10 surfers from the @wsl world tour was the best way to make sure the best surfers in the world made it to the Olympics. Now the 2027 WSL world champion isn't event guaranteed to compete in the Olympics To be clear, on behalf of the WSL surfers, we tried to communicate with the ISA to find the best solution for everyone but the ISA was not willing to work with any of the WSL surfers. I don't think this is the way to move forward and make our sport better not only for our generation but for future generations.” – Leo Fioravanti

"This is a joke." - Billy Kemper

Clearly, not a happy bunch.

As for the updated qualification system, read here, and see below:

1. 2028 WSL CT(10 total athletes)
   Top five (5) eligible athletes per gender as of the middle of June, 2028. Maximum one (1) per nation.
2. 2028 ISA WSG
   Top ten (10) eligible athletes per gender. Maximum one (1) per nation.
3. Continental Slots
   
   1. Asian Games 2026
      One (1) slot per gender. Highest-ranked eligible athletes.
   2. Pan American Games 2027
      One (1) slot per gender. Highest-ranked eligible athletes.
   3. European Surfing Championship 2027
      One (1) slot per gender. Highest-ranked eligible athletes.
   4. 2027 ISA WSG
      One (1) slot per gender for Africa and one (1) slot per gender for Oceania, awarded to the highest-ranked eligible athletes. The athlete must place within the top 25 overall.
4. 2026 & 2027 ISA WSG
   The highest-ranked team per gender will earn one (1) slot per gender for its nation.
5. Host Nation Places
   One (1) slot per gender will be guaranteed for the host nation of the USA unless already filled through the above hierarchies.
6. Universality Places
   One (1) slot per gender for underdeveloped nations. Eligible NOCs will need to apply. The nominated athlete must place within the top 40 at the 2027 or 2028 WSG.

Related: Caroline Marks on the (Literal) Weight of an Olympic Surfing Gold Medal

For his part, ISA President Fernando Aguerre had this to say:

“The updates to the qualification system reflect the ISA’s dedication to making sure the world’s best surfers have the best possible opportunity to earn their place at LA28. We have worked closely with the IOC, the athletes, and other stakeholders to deliver a clear and fair process.

“With LA28, with Lower Trestles, and with this qualification system, we are confident the best surfers from around the world will have the chance to earn their place, live their Olympic dreams, and deliver another unforgettable show.”

What do we think?