The buzz about the climatological phenomenon has been nonstop in recent weeks and months, with some going so far as to claim that this season, 2026 through 2027, could be a potentially historic El Niño period. While some meteorologists remain more conservative, others have been tossing around terms like “super” and “Godzilla” are being tossed around.

But what exactly is a “super” or “Godzilla” El Niño? Well, hit play below to learn.

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First off, here’s a little refresher on El Niño more generally:

“El Niño is when winds weaken that blow east to west, and that allows this warm water from the western Pacific to slosh back into the central and eastern Pacific, warming the globe, causing huge changes in weather El Niño,” Alec Luhn, an environmental reporter for the New Scientist explained.

But what about the super version? Semantically, “Godzilla” must mean “big,” right?

“A super El Niño is when that temperature anomaly in the eastern and central Pacific gets to be above two degrees Celsius,” Luhn continued. “It’s pretty rare. It’s only happened three times [1982-83 , 1997-98, 2015-16] that we know from the record.”

Related: ‘Strongest El Niño in 140 Years’ Is Coming This Year, Scientists Predict

And how likely is this super version of the climate event for the 2026-27 season?

“The waters in the central and eastern Pacific are warming faster than we’ve ever seen them,” Luhn said. “And the winds have weakened, allowing that water to start sloshing back into the eastern Pacific. Climate models are starting to predict a pretty good possibility that a strong, or super, El Niño will develop towards the end of this year. But it is still early days.”

But there are still skeptics out there, or those who are taking a more conservative look at what’s to potentially come later this season. Like Mark Sponsler of StormSurf:

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“For now, beware of websites and influencers trying to harvest your clicks by selling you overblown and sensationalized data,” Sponsler posted. “We have a ways to go before any valid outcome can be known. BEWARE- Don't believe the hype...at least not yet.”

So, super El Niño, regular El Niño, or nothing at all? Stay tuned to find out.

Related: Record-Breaking Marine Heatwave ‘The Blob’ Returns to West Coast

I had no idea how she would turn out. She was barely eight weeks old when I brought her home — small enough to hold in one hand, already following me from room to room like she'd been doing it her whole life. She never ran off. Never needed much convincing about anything. Just showed up and decided I was her person, which, honestly, is one of the best things that’s ever happened to me.

She looks like a Vizsla at first glance, she’s got that same red coloring and looks like she’s built for speed, but I think she's closer to a Doberman and Rhodesian Ridgeback mix. About 65 pounds of pure loyalty. Chill at home, absolutely feral on the beach in the best possible way. She goes harder on the trail than most people I know, and when we hit the sand she runs like she's been saving it up all week.

I won't generalize and say all dogs look like their owners, but I'll admit we kind of do. Not only that, she may love the beach even more than I do. We've done two full runs down the length of Baja and back. She's spent two winters with me on the North Shore. On the big days at Pipeline, I'm on the beach shooting photos and she's running the crowd like the whole thing was organized in her honor — which, as far as she's concerned, it probably was. We've run free at Blacks, done long stretches of Big Sur coastline, and logged more miles in a truck together than I could count. She's living her best life and I like to think I had something to do with that.

Which brings me to the part I actually think about a lot as a traveling surfer with a dog: what are you feeding her when the nearest decent pet store is four hours away, or three days down a dirt road?

The Right Fuel For The Road

That's where ORIJEN™ FRESHPREY  recipes became a legitimate part of our kit. The short version is that these packs are built on what the makers of ORIJEN™ calls WholePrey Nutrition — the idea that dogs thrive on diets rich in high-quality animal ingredients, the way they're actually wired to eat. The first five ingredients always include fresh or raw animal proteins, which means no unnecessary fillers, no wheat, no corn, no plant protein concentrates trying to pass themselves off as the real thing.

What makes FRESHPREY recipes different from the other premium options I've tried is the process. Every meal is gently cooked using sous-vide — a low-and-slow steam cooking method similar to what high-end restaurants use to protect the integrity of what they're cooking. Nutrients stay intact. The flavor stays real. Maya's nose makes it very clear when she approves of something, and she approves of this.

The Perfect Travel Solution For Your Pup

For travel specifically, the pack format is ideal. They go straight in the cooler alongside everything else. Depending on the day, I'll use one pack as a full meal or split it across two or three meals as a topper on her dry food — which stretches each pack and keeps things interesting for her on longer trips. When you're deep in Baja or somewhere the supply chain doesn't exactly prioritize premium pet nutrition, knowing you've got good food sorted for your dog is one less thing to stress about.

Maya deserves the best. She's earned it over four years of being the most consistent travel companion, adventure partner, and honestly just the best dog I could have possibly hoped for given my lifestyle.

Feed your dog well. Rescue if you can. And if your dog starts thinking Pipeline crowds are there for her, just let her have it.

Hashima Island was once a hotbed for industry. During the Meiji Restoration, or the rapid industrialization of Japan in the 1800s, Hashima Island was known for its undersea coal mines. And so, people got to work mining. By 1959, there was a peak population of 5,259 people; then, by 1974, the coal reserves were depleted. And everyone left the island.

Now, it’s a remnant of the past, a forsaken land used for sightseeing and, fun fact, a few scenes in the James Bond film Skyfall. Hit play below to learn more about Hashima.

In fact, due to all the forced labor during WWII on the island from thousands of Korean and Chinese workers, Hashima garnered sinister nicknames like “Hell Island” and “Prison Island.” Upwards of 1,300 laborers on the island perished due to accidents, exhaustion, malnutrition, and disease, according to historians.

And because of all that death, some think the island is haunted.

Related: Inside America’s 'Secret' Island Deep in the Remote Pacific Ocean (Video)

“Today, Hashima stands as a haunting reminder of industrial ambition and human suffering,” News18 reports. “Visitors encounter crumbling concrete blocks, rusted objects, and structures battered by natural disasters. Locals and tourists alike speak of ghostly presences, believed to be the spirits of workers who lost their lives there.”

As for the scene in 2012’s Skyfall, Hashima serves as the secret, private island hideout of Bond’s nemesis for that installation of the franchise: Raoul Silva (played by Javier Bardem). It has a distinctly creepy feel to it, perfect for a Bond villain.

Despite its abandonment and dark history, Hashima is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, since the island, “illustrates the process by which feudal Japan sought technology transfer from Europe and America from the middle of the 19th century and how this technology was adapted to the country’s needs and social traditions. The site testifies to what is considered to be the first successful transfer of Western industrialization to a non-Western nation."

Related: Inside Earth’s Most Remote Island: ‘Almost Untouched by Humans’

In February, Rob Kelly planned a trip to Japan to visit with his wetsuit sponsor, BeWet. Kelly has been on the BeWet program for almost two years now – ultra performance, custom fitted wetsuits based in Japan.

“What I was really shocked by was the warmth of the suit. I ended up wearing that 4/3 all winter long. I actually have a 5mil with tags still on it because the 4/3 more than did the trick. Wetsuit technology has probably helped the performance level in the Northeast more than any other surf technology and these suits are taking that level a new step further. I’ve always been a bit of a wetsuit nerd and stoked to get a behind the scenes look at where, in my opinion now, the very best wetsuits in the world are being built,” said Kelly.

He headed to the Land of the Rising Sun with photographer Pat Nolan and his filmer/ partner in Numbskulls, Ryan Smallcheck. After visiting the factory in Chiba, they were off to the Hokkaido zone, known as more for Japan’s snowboard powder paradise but also some frigid surf.

“Here we are on a search for waves in the remote snowy zones of Japan the main objective was to test and showcase the wetsuits in the most extreme coldwater conditions. But as luck would have it, the models for back home started blowing up and it was looking more and more likely that there was going to be a major winter storm back in New Jersey,” said Kelly.

The irony here wasn’t just that they were already on a snowy surf mission but New Jersey hadn’t had a true bombing nor’easter snowstorm swell in years.

“You’d never consider leaving a surf trip early just to go surf back home for a swell in Jersey, but this was shaping up to potentially be exactly what we were hoping to score in Northern Japan," Kelly described.

The BeWet folks understood the situation. The mission was always to showcase the wetsuits in the most extreme conditions.

“We pivoted from the original plan and Ryan and I changed our tickets to try and get home. The rest of the crew stayed in Japan to score the swell there,” he continued.

Kelly and Smallcheck rebooked their tickets, packed up and immediately left for the subway station to get to their initial flight back to Tokyo.

“The whole time I was seeing headlines from back home about a state of emergency, grounded flights, and travel bans. We made it to Tokyo, checked into our Newark flight just waiting anxiously at the gate while flights next to ours just kept getting canceled. Ours ended up being the very last flight that arrived in Newark before they shut the airport down.”

Getting back from around the world would have seemed the biggest hurdle, but as the nor’easter slammed into New Jersey that Sunday afternoon, the challenge had just begun. The normally 90-minute drive home down the Garden State Parkway turned into a five-hour journey through whiteout conditions.

And just as he was decompressing after 48 straight hours of travel, home with his wife and two sons safe, he heard a loud boom and the power went out.

“I walked outside to see  that one of the 30-foot pine trees that line my property had fallen over onto the room and knocked down the power line to the house. At this point it was already passed midnight and the storm was hitting full force. The buoys were pinging 15’ @ 11 secs which is a reading you don’t see often around here. Between the jet lag, excitement of the swell, and a couple more loud booms from more trees falling over, I realized the sleep that I desperately needed at this point was not going to happen.”

At the first hint of daybreak, he went out to find his wife’s car wedged between two fallen pines. While his vehicle was accessible, he couldn’t leave the family without a way out if the storm were to get any worse. He went about cutting the trees ... by hand.

With everything in ordered and situated at home, it was time for the final leg of the journey.

“I was delirious but with the adrenaline was still keeping me going. We drove to surf and arrived at the beach to see exactly what we hoped we’d see when we made the decision to leave Japan - big drifty lefts running down an empty, snow-covered beach. At that moment Ryan and I had a quick reflection on the absolute whirlwind the past 72 hours was. We couldn’t believe we had actually made it.”

What followed was the classic New Jersey blizzard session. Now running on days without sleep and arms sore from the sawing and shoveling, Kelly took to the task of 20-pus heavy duckdives in 38-degree water.

“It was big, raw, drifty and windy but straight offshore with perfectly shaped dark brown tubes contrasted by the white wall of snow blowing into the lineup. When you have snow that heavy and wind that strong, it makes for a unique challenge, like trying to snowboard without goggles,” Kelly remembers.

Joining in the drift were Sam Hammer, Robbie Goodwin, Danny Mears, Ben Gravy, Noah DeSimone and a few other local tube hounds. It was one of the most historic snowstorm sessions of all time with a performance level off the charts.

“These type of blizzard swells turn what would be a normal day anywhere else around world into a full-on survival session. I think that’s why we love it so much. It’s nice to get the heart pumping a little without having to leave the East Coast,” he admitted.

Nothing about the session was easy. But then again, easy never makes for a great story.

Related: Bezos Sails $500m Superyacht to Costa Rica To Save Sharks

It was 1945, and the USS Indianapolis was racing across the Pacific Ocean, carrying crucial components for the atomic bomb that would destroy Hiroshima, Japan in just two weeks’ time. After delivering the goods from San Francisco to Tinian, one of the Northern Mariana Islands, they headed for Guam, preparing for the Allied invasion of Japan.

But then, in the early hours of July 30th, while floating through the Pacific Ocean, the Indianapolis was spotted by a Japanese submarine. A missile hit the ship, and sent 900 men overboard, bobbing for their lives. Then came the sharks.

According to the Smithsonian:

“Sharks were drawn in by the sound of the explosions, the sinking of the ship, and the thrashing and blood in the water. Though many shark species live in the open waters of the Pacific, few are as aggressive toward humans as the oceanic whitetip. Experts generally agree that the Indianapolis sailors fell victim to oceanic whitetip sharks and possibly tiger sharks in what is considered the worst shark attack in history.”

It started with the sharks focusing on the already dead bodies floating in the water. Easy targets. But then, the sailors who were still alive began being targeted.

“Every now and then, like lightning, [a shark] would come straight up and take a sailor and take him straight down,” survivor Loel Dean Cox told BBC News. “One came up and took the sailor next to me. It was just somebody screaming, yelling or getting bit.”

Related: ‘Hundreds of Sharks’ Bombard Pro Surfer on Fishing Trip (Video)

The men sought safety in numbers. They even relinquished their meat rations, in hopes of detracting the sharks from chomping on their bodies. And when someone did die, they would sacrifice the body by pushing it away from the group for the sharks to eat.

Ultimately, they were stranded at sea for four days. In addition to the sharks, many died from drowning and hallucinations brought on by heat exposure and dehydration, which led them to drink saltwater. In the end, it’s unknown how many sailors died from sharks – estimates range from a few dozen to upwards of 150.

But once the remaining crew of the Indianapolis was rescued on August 3rd, of the original 1,196-man crew, only 316 were left. Per the Smithsonian:

“Today, the Indianapolis’ sinking is remembered as one of the deadliest naval disasters in American history.”

Related: Inside America’s 'Secret' Island Deep in the Remote Pacific Ocean (Video)

Reports vary, but the magnitude was somewhere between 7.4 and 7.7 on the Richter scale. It shook buildings, tore up roads, caused injuries, and spawned a tsunami warning for the region and across the Pacific Ocean – at one point, the threat was up to 10-foot waves.

And although the size of the resultant tsunami waves from Monday’s tremor were downgraded, there were still some more-than ripples that hit Japan’s shoreline. See below for what happened in Hokkaido following the quake.

Regarding the subsequent tsunami waves, The Japan Times reported:

“The quake triggered an 80-centimeter tsunami at Kuji Port in Iwate Prefecture, while Miyako Port, also in Iwate, saw a 40-cm tsunami. Waves were also forecast to arrive at other locations across a wide swath of the prefecture’s coast.

“In Hokkaido, the town of Urakawa observed 40-cm tsunami. At Aomori’s Hachinohe Port, a 30-cm tsunami was recorded, while the towns of Erimo and Ayukawa Port in Miyagi Prefecture saw 20-cm tsunami.”

Related: 7.4-Magnitude Earthquake Hits Japan, 10ft Tsunami Waves Possible

Looking at the footage above, the waves in Hokkaido look a bit bigger than 40 centimeters (1.3 feet). Maybe there was a bump of swell in the water at the time, which also propped up the waves. No damage from tsunami waves following this quake were reported.

Additionally, Japan remains on high-alert in the aftermath of Monday’s quake. The Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA) issued a “subsequent quake advisory,” which means, according to The Japan Times:

“Although the possibility of massive earthquakes of magnitude 8 or stronger striking is higher than usual, the odds are around 1%, or 10 times higher compared with 0.1% in regular times, the JMA said.”

Of course, Japan is an earthquake and tsunami hotspot, located on the highly seismically active “Ring of Fire.” Back in 2011, a 9.0 megathrust hit off the Oshika Peninsula, and sparked a devastating tsunami that resulted in the Fukushima nuclear disaster.

Nearly 20,000 people died during that event.

Related: Catastrophic Mega-Tsunami Will Devastate West Coast, Experts Warn

Indeed, the sharks of Costa Rica are in need of relief, and how better served than by none other than the tech mogul of all tech moguls and his journalist-cum-philanthropist partner in crime to arrive with multitudes of solidarity.

But, to save the sharks, they couldn’t stay on those diminutive vessels—Koru merely being the world’s largest sailing yacht, which arrived at Costa Rica’s Cocos Island a week ahead of the Bezoses, who flew in on their almost modest Gulfstream G650ER jet.

Of course, the relative newlyweds required more expansive accommodations to save the sharks, so they opted to find digs aboard their 247-foot “support” vessel, Abeona, which was waiting just offshore of Koru at her anchorage. Sadly, the Bezos’ 416-foot Oceanco, had to be left out on this voyage.

But whether we’re talking two superyachts or three: Is all this fanfare for sharks? And what of them?

“During the trip,” reports the tell-all, boot-licking lifestyle website Luxurylaunches.com, “Sánchez, who serves as vice chair of the Bezos Earth Fund, shed light on their efforts to expand marine protected areas around Cocos Island, supporting science, equipment, and training, while linking protected marine zones across Costa Rica, Ecuador, Panama, and Colombia. The Earth Fund’s direct implementation grant for Cocos stood at $640,000 in 2021.” Money talks, eh? And that’s about all they had to say about that.

Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), overseen by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) do wonders for the flora and fauna of the sea from the smallest of organisms to ecosystems—sharks included.

But does the high-profile couple’s arrival and week of presence show enough solidarity to save surfing’s great toothed friends and foes, Selachimorpha? Well, Cocos Island is, reportedly, among the world’s most important shark habitats, so here’s hoping. And Bezos’ 2020 infusion of $10b into the Bezos Earth Fund in support of scientists, NGOs, activists, and climate-change-fighting organizations is, perhaps, not all for naught.

Koru and Abeona were later reported as having been seen heading into the open Pacific.

At least the big-hearted humanitarians arrived by wind power—oh, wait… Well, surely the extra carbon footprint involved in the delivery of a twin-engine jet, a helicopter, and a 247-foot support vessel can’t have harmed our precious seas too much, right?

Related: 1 In 3 Sharks In The Bahamas Are On Drugs

Pure terror has been unleashed as monster waves unload on the shallow shelf.

And just like a car crash, it’s hard to look away. Most recently, a solid run of multiple swells at Cape Fear created chaos and carnage. There have been a few successful rides, and epic moments, amidst the madness. But let’s give the people what they want: the wipeout reel.

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The clip above features just that. A session that went down on April 13th, 2026, and primarily featuring wipeouts – just like the obligatory fails and bails sections of VHS surf film lore. Captioning the full YouTube clip (watch here) The Salty Frontier wrote:

“Easily some of the most insane waves I’ve ever witnessed. Crazy backwash and a great crew having a crack. Definitely more wipeouts than makes, but that’s what made it so good – thankfully most made it out unscathed.”

Keyword: “most.”

Related: 20ft Sydney Slab Chaos As Jet Ski Surfer Plows Through Packed Cape Fear Lineup (Video)

There weren’t any notable injuries reported during the recent run of swell at Cape Fear, but there was that one crazy moment when a surfer, towed in via jet ski, plowed through a crowded lineup of surfers sitting and waiting to paddle into a wave.

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Undoubtedly, during that incident, there were a couple bumps and bruises.

As Scott Gudahl, who captured that clip, wrote:

“The Cape goes next LEVEL. Only a few times a year do all the elements line up and bring this wave to life. Good to see everyone absolutely sending it and for the most part coming up unscathed with nothing but good stories to add to the memory bank. Here we have @jugjugheadhead absolutely sending it on the second wave.”

More Cape Fear craziness to come? Stay tuned.

Related: Chaos and Carnage: ‘Best Day Ever’ at Sydney’s Psycho Slab Wave (Video)

For Prince Harry, since he backed off from his role as the Duke of Sussex, and married the American actress Meghan Markle, he picked up a few new hobbies. One of which being surfing. And he has a particular spot he frequently indulges in this obsession.

Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, nestled about halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, is one of the world’s first and best manmade wave pools of the modern synthetic surfing boom. And it happens to be Prince Harry’s preferred spot of choice. He’s been witnessed riding artificial waves in the massive lagoon multiple times. And he has one of the best coaches in the game: Raimana van Bastolaer. Below, Raimana tells all.

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The Tahitian-born bodyboarder, big wave surfer, and now surf coach to the stars said:

“I thought I had to say, ‘yes, sir.’ Or, ‘yeah, Prince.’ You know whatever. And, ‘sorry, Prince.’ All these things. But he was totally opposite of this. Easy-going, humble, really humble. Really humble guy. Really respectful guy. Really good listener. He’s up for anything.”

Related: Prince Harry Drops $50k to Surf Kelly Slater’s Wave Pool (Video)

And after all those trips to the Surf Ranch, Raimana added:

“We became really close. We became friends. And I cannot wait for him to come to Tahiti.”

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It appears that the surfing fascination is something solely for Harry – meaning, Meghan doesn’t join him on his trips to the Surf Ranch. He’s also not very vocal about his surfing obsession, keeping it somewhat under wraps, with the clips coming from Raimana.

As for Meghan, Raimana is hopeful she gets hooked, too:

“Meghan never came. And I’m looking forward to her to come. Or I’m looking for Meghan to come to Tahiti. Once she rides the wave, she might have to come more often. She’ll be all over it. If you see this, look at this. [Turns his camera out his window.]”

Over the years, Harry has dropped a lot of money on Surf Ranch sessions (rumored to be $50,000 a pop). But hey, it’s paid off. He’s the only Royal ever to get legitimately barreled.

Related: Kelly Slater’s 2,000ft Austin Surf Park Claims ‘Better Than 99% of Ocean Waves’

No, not the mythical monsters à la Cthulhu, the Kraken, Scylla, or the Leviathan. There are real monsters hiding way, way down underneath the surface.

And in 2015, a team of NOAA scientists found one off Hawaii. It was the largest sea sponge on ever discovered (it holds the Guinness World Record, in fact), it was about a mile deep, and it measured somewhere around the size of a car. Check it out.

Although the discovery happened a handful of years ago, it was recently brought back into the limelight thanks to the folks at BBC Wildlife. They explained:

“When deep-sea researchers sent their underwater robot more than one mile deep in waters off Hawaiʻi, they were surprised to encounter a record-breaking creature that might be thousands of years old.

“During a 2015 expedition in the Pacific Ocean, they found an enormous glass sponge, which turned out to be a record breaker: the biggest sea sponge on the planet.”

The crew discovered the gigantic sea sponge via a remotely operated vehicle (ROV), and it was located in the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument off the Hawaiian Islands in the Pacific Ocean at a depth of 2,117 meters.

Related: Haunting New Footage of Giant Squid Revealed in Japan (Video)

Per the crew at NOAA, who captured the footage of the mammoth sponge, they wrote:

“The sponge was identified as belonging to the hexactinellid family Rossellidae and subfamily Lanuginellinae and scientists determined to be over 3.5 m in length, 2.0 m in width and 1.5 m in width, thus exceeding the dimensions of the largest sponge previously known.”

Although the exact age of the sea sponge is difficult to determine, it’s estimated that this particular sponge has been growing on the seafloor for thousands of years. And during that time, through filter-feeding bacteria and plankton, the sponge has grown.

Like, a lot.

Narrating in the video, one of the researchers marvels:

“This is the largest thing I’ve ever seen underwater.”

Related: Vicious Sea Lions Chase Surfers from Water in New Zealand: ‘Locals Only!’ (Video)

The United States Fish and Wildlife Service recently announced that in October, 2025, its inspectors “seized roughly 50,000 dried shark fins across 20 shipments at multiple U.S. ports—totaling more than 1,600 pounds valued at over $1 million.”

“The coordinated enforcement action was part of Operation Thunder, a global effort to combat illegal wildlife trade,” writes USFWS in a social-media post announcing the spree of confiscations, which began in Anchorage, Alaska, but also took place in Louisville, Kentucky, and Cincinnati, Ohio.

“All fins were seized for multiple violations of wildlife laws—another strong step forward in stopping the illegal trade of threatened species,” USFWS said of the operation—a joint effort with various international partner organizations.

Related: ‘Hundreds of Sharks’ Bombard Pro Surfer on Fishing Trip (Video)

It’s estimated that somewhere between 73 and 100 million sharks are harvested each year, though that number is likely a good deal higher than reported. And while officials and biologists agree that the harvesting of sharks can be done relatively sustainably and within moderation, the black market remains highly problematic thanks to, among other things, the demand for shark fin soup.

Shark fins, as with other contraband, are packed into anything and everything imaginable. Being dried, they don’t require much if any more particular packaging than, say, pills, powders, herbs, or fungi.

The fins, which were packed into cardboard boxes labeled for car parts that were crudely and loosely packed, posted from Mexico and expected in Hong Kong by way of the aforementioned U.S. towns, were confiscated per a 2022 U.S. government ruling under the Shark Fin Sales Elimination Act, which prohibits domestic purchases, possession, sales, and transport of shark fins.While silky sharks (Carcharhinus falciformis) and bigeye threshers (Alopias superciliosus) are target species that are heavily affected, a recently published study in the academic journal Science Advances suggests that illegal shark harvesting has pushed one-third of all species toward extinction.

Related: 1 In 3 Sharks In The Bahamas Are On Drugs

The opening clip of Orienta sets the scene. As Miguel pulls into the first wave, it's full speed ahead on his trusty 5'8 twin fin eco board as he tucks under the hood of a throaty crystal cylinder. It looks like Barra but there's not a soul in sight.

Throughout the film, a fictional story weaves through the local scenery, characters, and culture. A chance meeting with an unconventional taxi driver leads Miguel in the right direction — but he must first find the donkeys. Only they can lead him to the promised land.

We caught up with Miguel who said, "We were searching for waves in Africa… and well, we surely found them. At one point, I was absolutely tripping with the waves in front of me and not seeing a single soul around. It was one of the most rewarding moments of my winter. We spent 12 days on location and after getting so blown out by sand and dust, we finally REALLY scored on one of the last days of the trip."

The fiction came together in their free time as they filmed and wandered the region while waiting for swell. It's proof that good things come to those who wait.

What makes Orienta special beyond the waves is the scenic texture around them. The dusty roads, the unlikely characters, the long blank stretches of waiting that are as much a part of a surf trip as the surfing itself. Miguel has always been a surfer who thinks about the whole experience, not just the clips, and it shows in the way the film is put together. The twin fin approach suits the waves and suits the mood. It leaves little doubt as to how it performs, his surfing is loose, intuitive, fluid.

It's a reminder that some of the best surf on the planet is still out there waiting, unmarked and uncontested, for anyone willing to follow the donkeys.

Related: Miguel Blanco & The Eco-Board Project Charge The World's Heaviest Waves (Video)

It hit on Monday at 4:53pm, local time, off the coast of Sanriku.

The United States Geological Survey (USGS) clocked the quake, and continues to provide further information as it the potential tsunami waves – some potentially as big as 10 feet – continue to develop.

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One hour after the tremor shook, waves 2.6-feet high were witnessed at the Kuji port in the Iwate Prefecture. Then, another smaller tsunami wave (1.3 feet) was detected at another, nearby port.

Soon after the earthquake erupted, officials issued a warning for potential 10-foot waves, but according to the U.S. Pacific Tsunami Warning Center, that threat “has now passed.”

The latest from the USGS shows no signs of potential tsunamis for Hawaii or the continental United States. For Hawaii, they wrote:

“BASED ON ALL AVAILABLE DATA A DESTRUCTIVE PACIFIC-WIDE TSUNAMI IS NOT EXPECTED AND THERE IS NO TSUNAMI THREAT TO HAWAII. REPEAT. A DESTRUCTIVE PACIFIC-WIDE TSUNAMI IS NOT EXPECTED AND THERE IS NO TSUNAMI THREAT TO HAWAII.”

Related: 100% Chance of Devastating Tsunami to Hit Mediterranean, Experts Warn

And for the U.S. West Coast:

“THERE IS NO LONGER A TSUNAMI THREAT FROM THIS EARTHQUAKE… MINOR SEA LEVEL FLUCTUATIONS MAY OCCUR IN SOME COASTAL AREAS NEAR THE EARTHQUAKE OVER THE NEXT FEW HOURS.”

While this quake, and subsequent tsunami, were minor, Japan officials remain on high alert. This could be a precursor for something bigger. According to the AP:

“The Cabinet Office and the Japan Meteorological Agency said there is 1% chance for a mega-quake occurring on the northern Japanese coast in the next week or so following the powerful quake earlier Monday near the Chishima trough.”

This is a developing story.

Related: Catastrophic Mega-Tsunami Will Devastate West Coast, Experts Warn

Why is that? I'm not the Almighty One, I cannot say definitively. All I can do is offer some musings…it's funny how riding out a tropical storm can make you sit and ponder just how — and why — we got here.

By 'here', I mean 2026 and the poly-crises we humans face: record high armed conflicts (Ukraine, Gaza, Iran, Sudan, Yemen), food insecurity, declining humanitarian funding, water shortages, housing shortages, and severe financial inequality. All of this is underwritten by a volatile climate and shadowed by an imminent AI revolution that could leave us all without jobs… or possibly even wiped out as a species entirely.

What a time to be alive. It helps to believe that, at some point in space-time, we chose this. It also helps, at least in some regard, to be a surfer.

Yeah, yeah, yeah: crowds suck, good waves are rare, or expensive to reach, and there can be an overall feeling of diminishing returns — but that is the wrong attitude. Surfing is not to be viewed as a publicly traded company — there is no such thing as unlimited growth — it is a practice. No one is forcing you to get better and, ultimately, nobody cares if you do. It is for you, and you alone, to revel in the triumphs and tribulations.

Let's zoom out for a second and return to the bigger picture.

To trace the current situation back to its roots and, in the process, try and untangle the multiple threads of this crazy tapestry that is our current reality, we must go back to the Victorian Era. Beginning with the reign of Queen Victoria in 1837, lasting until 1901, it was defined by the Industrial Revolution and the expansion of the British Empire. To put it simply, it was a gnarly time.

Q: What about the native peoples around the world, their ancient traditions, and the harmony with which they lived amongst their environment?

A: Forget about them — have you even seen the Dow?!

Yes, it was then, in London, that the powers that be deemed that the modern man was far superior to all other peoples and that it was their duty to spread civilization to "savages" around the globe.

Now, it should be noted that London in the 1800s was, if anything, the most savage place on Earth. As the first city to reach a population of 1 million, and home to radical inequality that left the poor fighting for scraps and the wealthy living in mansions, it was home to terrible pollution due to the coal-fueled industry that was rapidly taking the world by storm.

It was also at this time that the value of the ocean and sunshine were recognized and realized by the elite — "sea bathing" and coastal holidays were prescribed as remedies for the general poor wellbeing of Londoners. Nothing like escaping the dread of the city for some fine ocean breeze and a hit of vitamin D.

Ironically, it was around this time that Calvinist missionaries from New England were attempting to erase surfing from the map. God bless the Hawaiians who demonstrated resistance and defiance and maintained their practice of He'e Nalu (surfing). Then, as now, they recognized that surfing is far more than a sport to be commercialized — it is a recognition of the ocean as a sacred space.

Unsurprisingly, not long after The Duke introduced surfing to the world, the industrial spin of surfing began and nearly reduced it to a pursuit reserved for privileged men alone. Those forces still exist, perpetuated by those who think that paradise is something that can be bought and sold. But nature keeps its own ledger. The arrogance of empire, the ignorance of industry, the assumption that the world exists to be exploited — all of it eventually meets a reckoning that no amount of money or power can buy its way out of.

The ocean doesn't know what you make, and it doesn't care. Neither should you. There's a lot wrong with the world, and most of it is above any one person's pay grade to fix. But awareness matters. Kindness matters. Gratitude matters. The ocean has a way of reminding you of all three — if you let it. The rest has a way of sorting itself out.

Related: Cutting Edge: Lucas Lecacheur’s Violent Eye and “Perfect Designs”

Doichin Doichinov has been surfing in his come country of Bulgaria for more than three decades, and is widely considered one of the first surfers in the area.

Located along the tideless Black Sea, Bulgaria's not usually a country you'd associate with surfing. And it might not enter most people's bucket lists, and that's ok. Because what it does have is a tight-knit surf community who ditch the inland grind for the coast whenever a swell's on. Aiming towards the southern border of Turkey, where there may just be a few gems around.

“It's all wind swell,” said Doichin. “We see a nine second period and that excites us, that's when we know it's going to be a great session. I guess, you could say, I unfortunately learned to surf in Bulgaria.”

Back in the 90s, Bulgaria was a different country than what it is today. After 1989, the country's economy collapsed and during 1996 and 1997 hyperinflation means that citizen's savings were completely wiped out – with poverty rampant.

Related: 5 Budget Surf Trips That Won't Break the Bank (Much)

“Surfing was a way around that, life was tough – but we'd all chip in and head to the coast, just a few friends who wanted to get into surfing. Back then, and what we know, is maybe this was just like any other surf country,” said Doichin. “These was no internet then, ex-socialistic communistic TV – and surfing became an adventure during the summer.”

Doichin and his crew found that after the first of May, there were rarely any waves until July and August rolled around. “Just by watching it, we could see the north eastern currents and winds come in and they bring in the waves,” he said. “We learned that if the wind is stable for four days and more than 12 hours, it can create good surf.”

By 1998, surfers from Bulgaria were travelling to other parts of the world, and brought back boards into the country. With some learning to surf in Mexcio and the US.

These boards caught the eye of the now Bulgarian surfboard shaper, Antony Gogov who went on to become the country's first ever shaper. “I came into surfing from snowboarding,” said Tony, who also discovered some of Bulgaria's favourite pointbreaks in the south of the country.

“But really a few of our friends went away to Mexico, came back and tried to convince the rest of us that the waves on the Black sea were good for surfing. Several of my friends believed them and started surfing, I was still sceptical. It took me maybe a year to be convinced. So when I started surfing there were already around ten people that had surfed for at least a year.”

That was in 1999 and Bulgaria remained off the traveling circuit for decades. As places like Tahiti, Fiji gained in popularity, and the consistency of Western European coastlines overshadowed the need to go deeper into the Old Continent, it was clear the Black Sea would remain off the grid for a while. “In a good year, I manage around 50 days of surfing, and in a bad year only 10-15 days,” said Tony.

Tony refined his shaping career through trial and error and watching DVDs. “There were guys who made one or two boards in their backyard for personal use before I started shaping and I took some advice from one of them. I also watched the John Carper DVDs – Shaping  101 and Glassing 101. My first board was an abomination, my second was a little bit better and so on.

“I make around 20 boards per year now. I think the most I have  ever made in a year is 30. A board takes me a week. I make everything from start to finish -- shaping, artwork, glassing, sanding, fin boxes, the works.”

Bulgaria's not an easy place to surf with sea temps dropping down to 35F through January and March. “We get good waves then,” said Tony. “But it's very cold. Late spring and summer we can go a whole month without  a single day of waves.”

There's also not as much salinity in the Black sea. “The boards don't float as well as they do in saltier water,” said Doichin. “But what we're really looking for is when the wind blows from the west overnight, then the south east in the afternoon, we call it scirocco wind.”

Eventually came the internet, and with it, surf forecasting websites. By that time, it was mostly confirming what the crew already knew. “After five, six, or seven years of constant observations, we managed to find out how to find a swell before all that. It was a really, really nice time,” said Tony.

Doichin is now the the distributor of O'Neill wetsuits in Bulgaria. “We may be one of their smaller accounts,” he said. “But we all love surfing. There's some localism and there's now maybe 100-to-130 good surfers around the country. But if I had to sum it up, Bulgrarian surfing is a lot of driving, a lot of calls, and sometimes, just no waves. Maybe that's what the rest of the world is like too.”

“Around 25-years-ago, when you told people that you surfed in the Black Sea, nine out of ten people would look at you like you're crazy,” added Tony. “These days, Bulgaria's surfing population is growing and growing. More and more people surf so more people see surfing from the beach and know that it exists.”

Related: Are Cold Water Waves Heavier Then Warm Water Waves?

And that’s particularly true when it comes to motoring through the surf zone. Time and time again, we see boats attempting to plow through waves, and oftentimes, getting launched into the air, as they hit the incoming aquatic launch ramps.

Like, for instance, the video below. It shows a day from the Noosa River in Queensland, Australia, near some of the world’s most renowned surf spots, like Snapper Rocks, a few hours’ drive to the south. Anyway, these boats were battling waves up to six-feet, as they made their way out to sea, and in some cases, they got pitched out of the water.

Check out the 4:11-minute mark; that boat gets absolutely airborne.

Related: Boat Gets Launched by ‘Fierce Storm’ Waves in Indonesia (Video)

Shared by Around Noosa – a channel dedicated to “boating and surfing in Noosa, one of Australia's most popular holiday destinations” – the YouTube caption reads:

“Another corker day here in Noosa with blue skies and a light 3 to 5 knot WNW breeze blowing at the river mouth. The swell was up a bit on the bar and a tad more gnarly than yesterday. Some real crunchers coming through out the back every so often.

“Timing was everything this morning and a number of boaties got it wrong. BOM [Bureau of Meteorology] forecast is for northerly winds 15 to 20 knots. Seas: Below 1 meter [3 .28 feet], increasing to 1 to 1.5 meters [4 .92 feet] by early evening.

Swell: Easterly 1.5 meters inshore, increasing to 1.5 to 2 meters [6 .5 feet] offshore. Caution: Surf conditions may be more powerful than they appear and are expected to be hazardous for coastal activities such as crossing bars by boat and rock fishing. Filmed between 5.55am and 6.50am which was about three hours before a 0.94m low tide.”

Looks like most of the boats in this video make it out, past the surf zone, safely. And that’s more than we can say about the recent boating wipeout in Newport Beach.

That one was pretty heavy.

Related: Boat Implodes on Sandbar in Wild Newport Beach Wipeout (Video)

They don’t get as much praise as they should, saving countless lives every day all over the world. And one place where lifeguards are extremely vital – and some of the best watermen on earth – is in Hawaii, where the waves are strong, and the tourists are reckless.

But recently, three lifeguards stationed near Honolulu on Oahu were caught drinking alcohol on the job. As a result, they were suspended without pay.

Per Hawaii News Now:

“Three city lifeguards have been suspended without pay for drinking on the job last Friday during a severe weather day.

“The city says the incident happened around 4 p.m. last Friday, and the lifeguards were on duty at the time. The lifeguards under suspicion of drinking alcohol were in a storage room on the Magic Island side of Ala Moana Beach Park, according to the mayor’s spokesman.

“The lifeguard towers were shuttered that day due to hazardous conditions from the Kona low storm, but beaches were open. Personnel were directed to seek safe shelter and be available for emergencies.”

Related: ‘End of the World’ Cliff Jump Turns Deadly in Hawaii as Rescue Fails (Video)

Nine lifeguards were breathalyzed; three tested positive for alcohol.

According to Racquel Achiu, a commissioner on the Ocean Safety Commission:

“It’s hugely disappointing. Naturally. We have so many great things to look forward to as a new department. It’s unfortunate that chances like that are taken because we are a public safety department.

“Based on the situation like I said I know that [Honolulu Ocean Safety Department Chief Kurt] Chief Lager has a lot of integrity and a lot of confidence in his job and I stand with him on that and I’m sure every measure will be placed to ensure the department’s integrity is intact.”

The lifeguard department has a zero-tolerance policy for alcohol. That means, the lifeguards who tested positive for boozing on the job could lose their jobs.

Mayor Blangiardi’s communications director, Scott Humber, said in a statement:

“We take this matter seriously. The actions of a few do not reflect the standards and professionalism of the Honolulu Ocean Safety Department as a whole. Our personnel are entrusted with the safety of the public, and we hold them to a high standard of conduct at all times.”

Once again, lifeguards are heroes. They deserve esteem, and they do their jobs humbly, rescuing untold numbers of individuals on the daily. We have the upmost respect for them.

As for the three who were caught drinking, the incident is still under investigation.

Related: Hero Rescues Father, Daughter from Near-Death Drowning (Video)

But this one is off-limits, verboten. For decades, visitors have been motoring out to nearby Catalina Island, enjoying the quaint town of Avalon, searching for the elusive buffalo, snorkeling and scuba diving in the rich marine seascapes, and more. San Clemente Island, however, is different. It’s owned by the U.S. Navy, and civilians are prohibited.

In the video below, find out the secrets of San Clemente Island, what’s actually going on there, and the reason why it’s forbidden to anyone outside the U.S. Navy.

The YouTuber explains:

“Off the coast of California, 50 miles from Orange County, there's an island you cannot visit. The Navy has been dropping bombs on it for nearly a century. And it is now home to species found nowhere else on the planet — five of which were just removed from the Endangered Species List.

“The reason they recovered? The bombs.

“San Clemente Island is the only place in the continental United States where the Navy conducts simultaneous ship-to-shore, air-to-ground, and live-fire ground training. It's covered in unexploded munitions. Ships shell the coastline. Planes strafe the ridges. Navy SEALs run drills in the canyons.

“And between the craters, tucked into the scrubland the missiles haven't touched, live plants and animals that exist nowhere else on Earth. The San Clemente Loggerhead Shrike — a predator the size of your fist that impales its prey on thorns. The San Clemente Bell's sparrow. Four endemic plants so rare that one of them, when it was listed as endangered, had a single known individual left alive.”

Related: 500-Year-Old Fort in Middle of the Ocean Still Stands: ‘Nobody Can Destroy It’ (Video)

So, strangely, amidst the active military operations and unexploded bombs, there’s a thriving wildlife population, one that’s unique specifically to this island.

Too bad nobody will ever witness these one-of-a-kind, seen nowhere else on earth, animals and plants…unless they join the Navy. We want you!

Related: U.S. YouTuber Faces 5 Years in Prison for Illegal Mission to ‘World’s Most Isolated’ Tribe (Video)

But like every ocean over the world, it comes with a few different moods. The swell season, off season and shoulder season. And when one half of the world on for the swell season, the other is doing the complete opposite. It means the swell season's always one somewhere if you're willing to travel. But we know this. Every surfer knows this. If you are looking traveling abroad to score, here's your best bets for each continent and the surf zones you are likely get it good.

Africa

Africa is the only continent that spans all four hemispheres, the east and west, north and south. For the purposes of surfing, and when to go, let's look at the northern and southern hemisphere, as these two will have the most impact on surf conditions. For example, surf-rich cultural hubs like Morocco have a completely different season than the likes of South Africa.

From September through to late February and into early March are the prime times to visit northern Africa. This is because swells created in the Atlantic can move across the ocean towards the Caribbean, hug the east coast of the US before boomeranging back towards Europe. Long-period energy from these swells fan down, often reaching the points of Morocco and other countries in the top of the continent. There are localized storm too, of course, but to make the most of it, you would be looking at this long period juice. Swells with a more northerly angle will also help set Morocco off, south swells are rare during this time of year, but not unheard of. As the summer months move in, more southerly swells can filter up out of the southern Atlantic for smaller, less intimidating waves.

The opposite is true for the south of the continent. During the northern hemisphere's summer, aka the southern hemisphere's winter, is when spots like J-Bay really come to life. Swells can originate as far west as the Southern Pacific, squeezing under Chile and Antartica on an easterly track. They can then reach the southern tip of Africa, delivering days of swell for before moving onto the Indian Ocean. If the storm is big enough, this will carry on to Australia and Indonesia. Spots like Namibia's Skeleton Bay come alive on a south swell – well, SW to W really – with a more westerly angle better able to connect up the kilometer-long rides that the joint's known for.

Antarctica

The question of whether there's surf in Antarctica has been answered over and over. The focus isn't on whether there are waves, but more should you travel there to surf there? Antarctica can be one of the most volatile places on earth – expeditions often hang on the knife edge of 50/50 conditions. Anyone can go there, you can fly into King George Island from the southern tip of Chile, it is just one of those places where you've got to seriously weigh up cost, time, effort and how likely you are to get skunked.

But get it right, and the rewards may be worth it. The best time of year to go, on a surf exploration mission, would be around the southern hemisphere's swell season, running roughly from late March through to early September. This is when swells are most prominent out of the South Pacific, and able to generate surfable conditions for the continent – that's the working theory anyway. But that doesn't write-off the likes of December and January, which typically sees warmer air temperatures and 24-hour daylight to push exploration as much as you'd like.

If you're interested in surfing Antarctica, there are numerous specialized surf expedition groups that are put on to help you score. It would be best to seek these out rather than head to the frozen south on your own.

Asia

Around 90 percent of Asia is located in the northern hemisphere, but the other 10 percent, in the southern hemisphere, is home to some of surfing's most brilliant zones. There are 42 countries across the continent, with 4.55 billion people. Countries like Russia, China, Japan, Oman, Maldives and Sri Lanka are all located in the northern hemisphere – and sit in that swell window from September through to March. Though for Sri Lanka, it is really a tale of two coasts. The best time to visit the southwest coast, like Weligama would be in this swell window. However, on the east coast, like Arugam Bay, the prime swell season is actually June through to Augsut. This is due to the monsoon season out of the Indian Ocean, generating powerful swells for that side of the island.

And then there's the southern hemisphere part of Asia – which encompasses a large part of the Indonesian archipelago. The swell season really begins in Bali from April through to October, during the country's dry season. It's during these months when you can expect to see the likes of Uluwatu come to life. That doesn't mean it's entirely exclusive to the southern hemisphere though. You may recall one of the historic runs of swell for Indonesia was in May 2018, which sent Nias, in the northern hemisphere, into overdrive. Much like Sri Lanka, there are parts of Indonesia in the northern hemisphere which are powered by swells out of the south. Even the shoulder season across Indonesia can be brilliant, with way less crowds.

Related: The 7 Surf Movies Hollywood Actually Got Right

Australasia

This continent is home to Australia, Tasmania, the islands of New Guinea, New Zealand, the Coral Sea Islands more. It's location means surf zones across the continent comes alive thanks to the Indian and Pacific Oceans. The cyclone season also runs from November through to April, meaning you can get some excellent quality surf out of these months – and also means the tail-end of the summer can be dazzling.

Spots like Margaret River thrive from April into October as the Indian Ocean gets kicking. Towards the northern past of Australia, the dry season is usually best, from May to October. On the east coast, it's much the same with spots across Sydney really ramping up from March to August. It's the same story for Tasmania, located below Australia, as it too laps up swells from an active Southern Ocean.

It's similar for New Zealand. With March through to August offering consistent waves on the country's west coast. Over on the east coast, you're better off waiting for cyclone season to deliver swells for this part of the world.

Europe

There are 44 countries in Europe, each one with its own distinct personality – and if they're on the coastline, can be completely different in terms of surf feel too. Best time to visit the Old Continent's western flank is from September and into April. The later you leave it, the less swell there will be, but the warmer the water, so pick your chalice. In Ireland, if you're going for XL waves, look at the deepest part of winter, towards November and then into January.

The UK is much the same. However, large swathes of the country is made up of beachbreaks, which can be overpowered during the swell season leading to numerous close-outs across the country. The pointbreaks and reefs can be crowded on these days as there's often nowhere else to surf, unless you go well off the beaten path.

France and Portugal, it's the same season. But both have very distinct waves. A beachbreak barrel in France is not the same as the likes of Supertubos, even though they mechanically look the same. You're most likely to see Portugal's mega wave Nazare spring to life from November into January and while big wave chargers will be throwing themselves into 80 foot plus waves, French locals will be doing step-offs into double overhead caverns on the same swell at the same time.

There's more to Europe than the western coastline though, spots inland along the Black, North and Baltic Seas all have their moments during the season. Though the Black and Baltic seas are ruled by wind swell, the North Sea can lap up surf generated from storms out in the North Atlantic, which pass over Scotland and down the backbone of the UK.

North America

Do you know how many surf spots are in North America? It's a tricky one to quantify, but if we had to pluck a number out of thin air, it's got to be around 1,000 – for the ones listed, probably around the 500-mark but for spots undiscovered, unnamed or not on surf forecasting sites, let's double that and see how we go.

The West coast of the US is open to swells from November through to March. But also, south swells out of the South Pacific can offer up great surf during the summer months too. Much like Nazare in Portugal, California's big wave Mavericks has its peak season from December into January, with January considered the top month to surf out there. Over on the east coast of the US, September through to November is a great time to be a surfer, with consistent swells and warm water. This surf zone comes alive in the winter too, as powerful nor'easters track in. The US east coast is also impacted by the Atlantic hurricane season, running from June 1st to November 30th, which is prime time for powerful surf to make its way up the right coast.

Much the same for Canada, where the swell season will run during the fall and into winter months. On the west coast, the Pacific is the main swell driver for the country, while on the east coast, the North Atlantic can spin off swells along the likes of Nova Scotia's dazzling pointbreaks.

While geographically Mexico is central America it is actually a part of the North American Continent. Mexico loves south swells, so during the Pacific's peak season (northern hemisphere's summer) is prime for sending these long-period waves up to the country and other parts of central America. Barbados is another country in the North America continent, in the northern and western continents. Again, late October and into March are brilliant for the likes of Soup Bowl, in the North Atlantic's winter months.

South America

South America houses some of the greatest surf spots around, including Peru's Chicama, one of the longest waves on the planet and the likes of Punta de Lobos in Chile, one of the best big wave spots in the world.

Around 90 percent of South America is in the southern hemisphere, with the western side of the continent fed by the Pacific Ocean and the eastern side is fed by the Atlantic Ocean. The best time to surf the Pacific side would be May to August, as the Pacific begins to really ramp up, sending swells all along this side of the Continent. Over the opposite side, there's Brazil, which is best to surf from April through to October, especially in he southern part of the country like Filipe Toledo's home town of Ubatuba. There are so many different waves and surf spots across South America, from the horror slabs of Brazil to the points of Ecuador and beyond – it's a veritable surfing haven and well worth the trip if you're looking for warm water and a range of conditions and set-ups.

Related: 10 Game-Changing Surf Gear Upgrades for Spring

The boat was clearly too close to the shoreline; something that’s typically enforced.

And there were people onboard at the time of the incident, but no there have been no reports of injuries as of yet. Anyway, watch the chaos and carnage unfold below.

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The Newport Beach Ocean Lifeguard Association posted the clip of the boat getting absolutely wrecked with the simple comment: “Definitely can’t park here.”

Others, like Bill Sharp of the Big Wave Challenge fame, chimed in with comments like:

“Don’t hate on me, but I’m gonna say that was potentially avoidable.

“Stuck the floater,” typed another witty commenter.

Another angle of the boat crash was posted local Orange County surf photographer, @Dingosaidso. In his caption, he described:

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“Sailboat crashes into the sand in Newport Beach right by the Balboa Pier! How come boats don’t have anchors on them anymore????? Doesn’t take long for the small waves to rip the boat to shreds, imagine what it would be like if we had some swell.”

Related: Boat Gets Launched by ‘Fierce Storm’ Waves in Indonesia (Video)

This is clearly an act of negligence, resulting in potential injury to the passengers, and not to mention damage to the boat. Per California law:

“No person may operate a vessel at a speed greater than five (5) miles per hour within 100 feet of a swimmer or surfer or within 200 feet of a beach frequented by swimmers.”

But it sure does make for a funny clip. KookSlams, you up?

Related: Santa Cruz Surfers Rescue Capsized Boat: ‘It Was Chaos’ (Video)

A marine heatwave is wreaking havoc on the Pacific Ocean off California, with records continuing to be broken, reminiscent of the extreme (and ominously named) oceanic warming event of 2015, dubbed “The Blob.” And things might get worse.

Couple that with the incoming El Niño – which experts are potentially predicting to be a “super” or even “Godzilla” event – and we could be in for a heater (literally) this summer.

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Per the LA Times: “The ocean heat wave started forming at the end of last year but has worsened in recent weeks, according to readings from the Scripps Pier in La Jolla, which has broken more than 25 daily temperature records this year. The surface water temperature on Wednesday was 68.5 degrees — 7.7 degrees above average for the date. The sea bottom was 67.6 degrees, the hottest April 15 in about 100 years of records.”

Looking at the numbers, from Scripps, records are being broken on the daily. For instance, the most recent readings are as follows:

“How does April 17, 2026 compare to other years? April 17th, 2026 is tied for the hottest April 17th on record.”

Related: Record-Breaking Marine Heatwave ‘The Blob’ Returns to West Coast

So, all indications are that the water is going to continue to warm, and potentially reignite the menacing Blob from 2015. And what was that, exactly? Here’s NOAA:

“You had a number of things occurring that by themselves were just astounding,” said Nate Mantua, an atmospheric scientist at NOAA Fisheries’ Southwest Fisheries Science Center. “When you put it all together you could hardly believe it.”

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In addition to abnormalities with regards to marine wildlife – like, “subtropical species such as tuna and swordfish appeared hundreds of miles beyond their typical range” – the heatwave of 2015 was one for the books. And this next one could be bigger.

NOAA added:

“It was unlike any the West Coast had ever experienced before. Starting in the fall of 2013, a ridge of high pressure dampened the normal winter winds across the eastern Pacific Ocean. The sun warmed the sea surface into an ever-expanding hot spot that soon became known as ‘the Blob.’”

Stay tuned. Could be a lot of action this summer season on the West Coast.

Related: ‘Strongest El Niño in 140 Years’ Is Coming This Year, Scientists Predict

Coconut Island, or as it’s known natively Mokuola, was purchased by Holmes grandfather, Christian Holmes II, in the 1937 for $50,000. He then turned it into his own personal playground – equipped with beach expansions, a zoo with zebras and elephants, a bowling alley, and it became a hotspot for Hollywood elite of the time.

See below for more on the strange history from the infamous fraudster – the former CEO of Theranos, a scam medical innovation company, who is locked up for her crimes until 2031 – and her strange ties to this piece of Hawaiian history.

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“He expanded it 16 acres,” the narrator explains, "by dumping sand over the surrounding reef. He also built a bowling alley, a saltwater lagoon that lit up at night, a private zoo with zebras, camels, tigers, monkeys, and a baby elephant from Germany.

“Amelia Earhart, John Wayne, Shirley Temple, and the Rockefellers were all guests of the island. And in 1964, it was ever used as the ‘shipwreck island’ in the original Gilligan’s Island trailer. When Pearl Harbor was attacked, the island was taken over for military use. And Holmes died in 1944 at just 47 years old, paranoid and struggling from alcoholism.”

It's giving Daniel Day-Lewis in There Will Be Blood vibes.

Here for a good time, not a long time, Christian Holmes II might’ve said.

Related: 500-Year-Old Fort in Middle of the Ocean Still Stands: ‘Nobody Can Destroy It’ (Video)

Today, according to local news, Coconut Island is closed due to a bridge collapse, and in need of a $20 million repair. “Hawaii County now says even a temporary fix is two years away, and full reconstruction won’t even begin until 2029,” Beat of Hawaii reports.

But the Hawai’i Institute of Marine Biology from the the University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa uses the special island for research. As they put it:

“The Hawai‘i Institute of Marine Biology (HIMB) is a preeminent marine science institute located on Moku o Lo‘e (Coconut Island), surrounded by living coral reef. We leverage our unique Hawai‘i hub and year-round access to tropical ecosystems to transform local research into global ocean solutions. Across diverse labs, our ‘ohana (family) of over 200 faculty, staff, students, and volunteers studies diverse marine life and the vital connection from ridge to reef.”

Glad something good came out of it after its somewhat sordid history.

Related: Inside Earth’s Most Remote Island: ‘Almost Untouched by Humans’

But a rockabilly Frenchman walking around the Waialua Sugar Mill in a skin tight wife beater, jorts, and thigh-high black cowboy boots—well, let’s just say you’re gonna draw some attention. 

Lucas Lecacheur—known worldwide these days by Perfect Designs—rolled through Hawaii last year, as part of a months long world tour shaping his violently conceptual art pieces (and only slightly more user-friendly range of shapes under the Lux Label), and showing his gorgeously strange short films, with stops in Japan, California, Portugal for Gliding Barnacles and elsewhere. 

With a mix of post-punk/new wave/goth, and, say, a young Peter Schroff, over the last few years, Lucas has established himself as a rather polarizing figure in the surf world, especially among board builders—not necessarily the most open-minded bunch, historically. 

But once people have gotten past Lucas’ curious facade, they’ve encountered a sweet, thoughtful, gifted artist and craftsman who is genuinely interested in creating art that holds a mirror up to our little, often too-serious, subculture. 

During his stay, Lucas threw a party at The Center Of Radical Education, chatting with guests about his White Fin Project and book—a concept born from the idea that, by adding a fin onto pretty much anything, you’ve got a surfboard. 

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We chatted with Lucas about his trajectory, growing up in France to globetrotting the world freaking surfers out wherever he goes.

You grew up in Normandy, yeah? That coastline is pretty rugged and the scene is pretty core. What was your early surfing life like and how did you get into shaping your own boards? What were the outside influences shaping you creatively outside surfing? 

I was born in Paris but moved to Île de Ré when I was 8, a small island off the west coast of France. A pretty mellow and slow lifestyle: village life, riding bicycles. I had always dreamed of being a rockstar, and surfing and playing guitar were what I needed to keep the dream alive. But throughout my youth, I was always craving the city and the action.

As a surfer, I was a thruster kid, surfing regional competitions, although I mostly rode a twin fish. Right next to the island was the UWL Surfboard Factory, where I got my boards. Later on, they started inviting renowned shapers, and I got to meet Josh Martin, Neal Purchase, Thomas Bexon, etc. 

When I finally moved back to Paris at 19, I started a punk band called Bad Pelicans.
My bandmate Fernando and I shared a passion for surfing, and we always knew we were going to shape surfboards at some point, but we had the band and many musical side projects and played every week with different bands. We released a lot of music, took part in the underground Paris music scene, and went on tour whenever we could. Through those years, we shaped our vision, shared new concepts and ideas, and constantly tried new things.

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When COVID hit, Bad Pelicans was selling out bigger venues in Paris, actively touring Europe, and had just returned from recording a new album in Seattle. But due to the pandemic, music was basically over at that point.

Bored one night, I drew a pointy, stupid surfboard on a piece of paper and sent a photo to Fernando. He called me instantly, and we laughed our asses off. The next day, I called him on FaceTime wearing a suit and sunglasses. I took an old, damaged shortboard and started cutting into the tail in a bat-tail shape, without any warning.

In shock, he said, “That’s a Perfect Design.”

In shock, he said, “That’s a Perfect Design.”

Later that day, I went to see the local shaper wearing the same outfit (suit and sunglasses) and told him something had happened and the board needed some care. He looked at me like I was a psychopath. Eventually, I begged him to let me shape a board with him. When he finally agreed, I showed him the drawing from the night before. He seemed extremely confused but agreed in the end. A week later, Fernando showed up, also wearing a suit, and we started shaping The Cowboy Boot Surfboard.

What made you start thinking of a surfboard as a creative, expressive form instead of a strict, functional object? 

I studied Electroacoustic Composition for about eight years. It is a very wild and experimental form of musical expression, using sound and noise as a physical material, creating conceptual pieces made of both soft and harsh elements. I guess I have always loved exploring outside the lines, surprising myself, and crafting something I've never seen before.

Growing up in Paris, with parents who adored the arts, our weekends were spent going to museums, the cinema, and cultural events. I always knew there was more out there and constantly craved learning.

I love concepts, strong gestures, and no compromises. Once you start to understand what has already been done and have explored the progressions of surfboard shaping, a new question arises. What else is there to see? What comes next?

I wanted to be amazed, and I wanted to be moved, but nothing truly excited me anymore.

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Eventually, I realized that what I was looking for was to see someone create Perfect Designs. But nothing like that existed, so I had to make it happen myself.

What was the early response to some of your more aggressive pieces?

Perfect Designs’ first impression on the world was one of strong confusion. People were making fun of it, thinking it was only a joke. Then the boards were surfed, and a divide began to form between absolute adoration and outright hate.

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What have been some of the more memorable shows? How important has the film and photography side of these projects been? Do you conceive the pieces with cinematic ideas in your mind?

The first Perfect Designs event took place at a big RVCA artist convention in Paris, where they asked us to play a live music set. We ended up agreeing to do a DJ set instead.

We had a stage in the center of the space, surrounded by 60 artists showcasing their work. When the moment came to perform, just before getting on stage, we agreed to do nothing. So we stood on stage, with an iPad on a stool between us, and started staring at everybody, taking turns tapping the iPad to change the track.

After two hours of wild music selection (country, black metal, UK jungle, Nickelback, harsh noise, classical music) the people from RVCA were very excited.

"Guys, that was absolutely amazing. Could you do it again tomorrow?"

We did.

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Like with a band, it is impossible for me to separate the aesthetic and performance aspects from the music. Rock’n’roll would have never been rock’n’roll without the performance, fashion, personality, and cinematic elements behind it.

Anyone can make a weird surfboard, but Perfect Designs is about the entire universe that surrounds it. Each board carries its own concept and story, and when I have time, I like to expand on it through a film, a zine, or a photo shoot.

People do not always notice it, but Perfect Designs is a collaborative concept. I work with many creatives, including photographers, designers, poets, and filmmakers. It is a platform I put forward to create and collaborate with people I trust and who are genuinely into it.

Tell us about your World Tour, Japan, your experience hanging in Hawaii at Third Stone and some of the characters who made an impression on you.

It’s my second year spending a month in Japan, and it feels like I have a family there. In two years, I have done four exhibitions, launched two books with my publisher Upcoming Studio, played two live music shows, a DJ set, and made cocktails in a noise bar.

The hotel WPU Shinjuku keeps “La Guillotine” safe in their lobby. “La Guillotine” is an extremely sharp, metallic-looking surfboard I made last year with Akinobu Sekizawa.

This year in Chiba, I made three new surfboards at Tappy Yoshikawa’s factory. The Tappy crew have become like family, and I can’t wait to go back for more. In Tokyo, I have ongoing projects with performance and bondage artists, as well as great photographers. I met a kid this year named Uminosuke Oguma, and he is now my first and only team rider.

Hawaii is a special place, and as I expected, I felt like I had to prove myself to other shapers.(Though I do not feel like I have anything to prove, because I am not even competing with the past. My gesture is to reinvent surfing as if it never existed.)

I made two surfboards at C.O.R.E and stayed in the room at Third Stone Hawaii in the Sugar Mill for a week. After launching new films in the new space, I got the worst food poisoning of my life and accepted my destiny: to die on the North Shore.

Britt Wilund from Third Stone saved my life with some Pepto Bismol, sourdough bread, and Coca-Colas. When I came back to life, I went straight to the shaping bay to finish my duty.

Related: Owl Chapman Underground: A Tribute From 3rd Stone Hawaii & Britt Wilund

The planer had disappeared on my second day because someone came and took it from the bay. I am sure it was some sort of test. I had to shape those two boards with no power tools. Bit of a nightmare, but I went for it.

I ordered some fins from Steve Mock at Island Fin Design, who did a fantastic job.

Tell us about Lux. How do people get their hands on one of your more user friendly designs, and what’s next for Perfect Designs?

LUXE is a label of personal crafts that I have been surfing every day for the past five years. They were originally made only for close friends and for my personal use.

The approach with these boards is extremely strict, and the custom options are limited. There are only three models, ranging from six to twelve feet, single fin or twin, all featuring a signature Pelican Beak nose, edge transition “petit bateau” rails, and clear lamination with a polished finish, always. 

I have received interest in commercializing them in America and am now discussing terms to make them available to order in the coming months.

It is a contemporary take on single fins, imagining what it would be like if the 'classic 70s Hawaiian style' had remained the foundation of the design. It is also a different approach to twin fins, as if the fish had never been invented.

Related: “Love Is Everywhere”: The Living Art of Gliding Barnacles

"It can be hard to get the schedules to align and find the time to get everyone on the boat at the same time," adds Florence.

And while one might think that pulling Nate and Ivan off the Slab Tour would require a special South Pacific discovery, sometimes it's the little things in life that bring brothers together. Like really little things. Like a cabin full of mosquitoes. But hey, nobody ever said surf exploration would be easy.

Of course, then there are other moments that couldn't be any more sublime, like watching wee Darwin hanging with a crew of groms from a no-name village on a no-name island deep in Fijian waters. They're the kind of experiences that he'll never remember, but will stay with him forever. Next month, Darwin will turn two years old. His namesake, Charles Darwin, only spent about 18 months at sea during his famous five-year voyage on the HMS Beagle in the 1830s--the kid will have him beat before he starts preschool!

Florence's latest episode, "Mosquito Bay | Vela | Presented by Yeti," is an important reminder that so often in life it's about the journey not the destination. In the words of Charles Darwin, "Nothing can be more improving to a young naturalist, than a journey in distant countries.”

Related: "What I’m Doing Now Feels Endless:" John John Florence Opens Up About Future Plans

The source of the conflict? Surfers. The traditional paddle-into-waves variety.

You see, hydrofoil surfers were able to catch waves from further out than traditional surfers, thus denying others from riding the same wave, or causing collisions. And beneath the foils, there’s a massive metal guillotine. A whack from that could cause serious injury. (I know from personal experience; a cracked rib.) But foilers are attempting to introduce a peace treaty. Or, at least, some pointers on how to keep everyone safe.

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In the video above, posted by leading foil brand, Lift Foils, they gather a handful of hydrofoil surfers to issue a PSA, of sorts, for best practices.

A few of the sentiments are as follows.

“Stay away from other people with them. You can go downwind; you can go ride the wave in the corner that nobody is on.”

“Bad habits to avoid while foiling include foiling in a crowded lineup, and not giving priority to the surfers that are out there.”

“Get away from the pocket, and surf the open face. Don’t just think about yourself out there; think about everybody that’s trying to enjoy the ocean, too.”

Related: Kelly Slater Torches Electric Foil Collision in Gold Coast Localism Clash (Video)

The video also comes with the caption, which reads:

“We get it. Foiling is fun! And foil assist and eFoils are creating more access. But with great power comes great responsibility. Respect the culture, respect the line up, and have fun. More educational content coming from your friends here at Lift Foils.”

What do you think? Is peace possible amongst surfers and foilers? Or are we doomed to continue the infighting forever, like Lex Luthor and Superman, and other mortal enemies of fictional lore.

Related: Foil Collision Nearly Cuts Surfer in Half: ‘Friendly Fire’ (Video)

Thoughts?

And so, Florida surfers rejoice, as a new wave pool is coming to the Sunshine State, with a slated grand opening later this year.

Below, take a sneak peek at The Point, the latest wave pool joint from Endless Surf.

“To be a Florida surfer, it’s a struggle,” says aerial sorcerer Robbie “Rasta Rob” McCormick. “It’s not the most ideal thing I would say. We’re always searching for waves, driving up the coast. Now it’s, like, finally happening. And everyone is pretty mind-blown, just psyched.”

Per the press release about the impending opening of the surf park:

“Florida has one of the most active surf communities in the U.S., but also some of the most inconsistent waves. Long flat spells and short swell windows have always been part of the experience, limiting time in the water for surfers across the state.

“For years, surf park concepts have been proposed here, but few have moved beyond the idea stage.

“The Point is changing that -- now under construction and set to make waves in 2026.

“Located just inland from Sebastian Inlet, the project sits within one of Florida’s most established surf regions, while drawing from a broader population across the state—within driving distance of Orlando, Miami, and Tampa. Designed as a standalone surf destination, it’s built to support consistent use, year-round visitation, and long-term economic activity for the surrounding community.

“At the center of the project is Endless Surf’s next-generation wave technology.”

Related: Saudi Arabia Unveils 215-Meter 'Insane New Surf Park' Powered by Endless Surf (Video)

As for the pool? What can folks expect?

“Using air pressure to generate waves with precision and repeatability, the system allows full control over shape, size, speed, intervals, etc. Multiple zones can run simultaneously, enabling different wave types at the same time—so surfers of all levels can be in the water together.

“Wave profiles are fully customizable and can be adjusted throughout the day, supporting everything from learn-to-surf sessions to high-performance training and events. Built for both progression and capacity, the system delivers consistent, high-quality waves while maintaining the throughput needed for daily operation.”

Stay tuned; Florida is set to be pumping later this year.

Related: $45 Million Wave Pool Coming to San Diego Only 3 Miles from Beach

Hey Dibi… I got a taste of the surf industry; sponsors, pressure, filming every session. How did something I used to be so fired up about now seem like a job? - Flat Lined
Hey Flat Lined… Your first glue might have been the word “industry” and I’m constantly amazed that most people don’t recognize it means the business of surfing. Taking money or goods from companies comes with responsibility, that’s where the job part kicks in and depending on the level of sponsorship more will be expected of you. If you want to keep surfing for the pure joy of it, that’s a choice you’re going to have to make now that you’ve had a taste of the business side.

Hey Dibi… I fell in love with surfing looking at the soulful images from surfing’s past. Now it feels commercial, crowded, and performative. Was I just naïve?  - Disillusioned Dreamer
Hey Disillusioned Dreamer… The old images give a glimpse of a world that no longer exists, but that’s not exclusive to surfing, it’s a fact of life. You’ll never be able to recreate the past and there’s so much to enjoy in the present that surfers from earlier decades could only dream of. Don’t miss today, wishing it was something different, it will be tomorrow before you know it. The average life expectancy for a US male is 76.5 years that’s 27,942 days; enjoy everyone like the gift they are.

Related: Hey Dibi: Why Live By The Beach If You Don't Surf?

Hey Dibi… My son wants to be the best. Not “have fun” actually win. He’s fiercely competitive and driven, but I’m afraid with the state of the industry there isn’t going to be the financial reward that he’s expecting. Is it wrong for him to want a big return? - Surf x Driven
Hey Surf x Driven… No, it’s honest. Some people are wired to compete. I agree that the financial reward from the industry doesn’t compare with some other sports and the career has a short shelf life, but if you look at it as a stepping stone on the road of bigger opportunities that you’re able to take advantage of from the global recognition the champion platform offers and he’s still young enough to have most of his adult working life ahead of him, sounds like he has the drive to make his dream come true.

Hey Dibi… I’ve surfed for decades and after all these years, I’m wondering what does it give you? - Surf Dazed
Hey Surf Dazed… Less than people think and more than they can explain. Some days it seems to give you nothing and others, it resets your entire head. If you need it to be profound every time, you’ll miss it. It’s not consistent, it’s sublime, that’s why it matters.

Hey Dibi… I’ve seen how the surf industry works. It’s all marketing and image. Kind of killed the stoke for me buying from the brands I grew up admiring. What changed? - Eyes Open
Hey Eyes Open… The industry isn’t surfing, it’s just what grew around it. If your Stoke depended on brands being authentic, it was somewhat innocent to begin with. The big brands who go public have fiduciary responsibility to their shareholders for increasing their quarterly earnings. The smaller brands need to make payroll and all the other expenses to keep the doors open. To package and sell a dream isn’t always so easy, as you seem to have experienced the oxymoron of the manufactured dream business. But if this makes you feel better buying a shirt or pair of trunks, do a little research and find out what companies give back to surfing in a way that aligns with what you care about.  

Related: Hey Dibi: When Is A Wave "Post Worthy"?

And recently, during a session in the country’s Southland, legendary New Zealand photographer Rambo Estrada captured an encounter between surfers and some of the native wildlife. A pack of sea lions chased the surfers from the water, snarling with sharp teeth, and sending the surfers back to land. The images, and videos, are insane.

See below.

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Estrada captioned:

“Just another day at the beach in Southland for local core lord “Crackers” @damoncracknell

“This angry Sea lion chased crackers out of the lineup, I was shooting with my 400mm from the dunes and then it came right up the beach and chased us back to the car park.

“Gotta love the wild life down here.”

One scene shows a surfer on the sand, being literally chased from the water by a clearly irritated sea lion. And then the last slide, that could be one for top animal photos ever in National Geographic. It shows a sea lion, jaws agape, leaping out of the water, as a surfer flees from a potentially detrimental nibble.

Sounds like everyone made it out okay, though. Close call.

It’s also not the first time that we’ve seen sea lions acting aggressively towards surfers. Last year, a surfer was attacked by what he called a “demonic” sea lion while in the water in California’s Ventura County. RJ LaMendola, the surfer, was hospitalized after the bite.

Related: Surfer Attacked by “Demonic” Sick Sea Lion (Video)

“The pain was sharp and immediate, but the terror was worse—it shook its head violently, tugging me off my board by my flesh, dragging me into the water,” LaMendola explained. “This isn’t normal sea lion behavior. It’s something darker, something dangerous.”

In that incident, it was suspected that the sea lion was suffering from a neurological toxin – sort of like ocean rabies, which can make animals more violent – caused by and algae bloom filled with domoic acid.

No word if the sea lions in New Zealand were suffering from the same thing. Probably just a case of territorialism, and the “locals only” mentality.

Related: Sea Lion Killed After Terrorizing Surfers at the Wedge (Video)

Mykhailo Viktorovych Polyakov, 24, made the illegal attempt to visit North Sentinel, and contact the sequestered tribe, on March 29th, according to authorities.

And while he apparently did make his way onto the island, local fishermen alerted officials, and he was swiftly apprehended. Good thing, too, since the last time someone attempted to visit the Sentinelese, they were killed by bow and arrow. Local news reports:

Per CNN:

“While Polyakov successfully reached the island, he does not appear to have made contact with the Sentinelese tribe, Jitendra Kumar Meena, head of the Andaman and Nicobar Police’s Criminal Investigations Department told CNN. He was spotted by a local fisherman on his way back and arrested two days later, Meena said. Police seized an inflatable boat and motor from Polyakov. He has not yet been charged with any offenses.”

Recently, satellite imagery showed some of the behaviors of the enigmatic tribe – from building pathways, forts, structures, and whatnot on the island.

Related: North Sentinel Island’s ‘World’s Most Isolated People’ Exposed by New Satellite Footage (Video)

According to EBSCO, a research database, here’s a little more on this mysterious tribe:

“The Sentinelese are an indigenous tribe residing on North Sentinel Island in the Andaman Islands of Southeast Asia, known for their isolation and fierce resistance to outside contact. As one of the last uncontacted tribes in the world, little is understood about their daily life and culture due to their strong desire for privacy.

“The Indian government has established a protective exclusion zone around the island, preventing outsiders from approaching, although tragic encounters have occurred, such as the deaths of fishermen and a missionary. North Sentinel Island, part of India’s Andaman and Nicobar Islands Union Territory, is approximately 23 square miles and features dense forests and surrounding reefs, leaving it largely inaccessible.”

Back in 2018, an American was killed by the tribe when he attempted to visit them. John Allen Chau, a 27-year-old from Alabama, was a modern-day missionary of sorts, attempting to bring Christianity to the primitive people. And yet, he was warned.

The method of murder? Bow and arrows.

As for Polyakov, he got out alive. But he’s not out of trouble yet.

Caroline Pearce, Director of Survival International, called these actions “reckless and idiotic.” She added in a statement:

“This person’s actions not only endangered his own life, they put the lives of the entire Sentinelese tribe at risk.

“It’s very well known by now that uncontacted peoples have no immunity to common outside diseases like flu or measles, which could completely wipe them out.”

Related: 500-Year-Old Fort in Middle of the Ocean Still Stands: ‘Nobody Can Destroy It’ (Video)

I won't pretend to be a museum enthusiast or an avid art-historian but I do have a deep love for art, especially street art, thanks to getting turned onto Banksy around 2010. My only regret is that I wasn't able to go to some of his first shows in LA and NY or, better still, able to pick up a piece from what I consider to be the world's greatest living artist. The notorious anonymous street artist, who likely evolved into a collective of co-conspirators, thinkers, and pranksters in the mid 00's, was recently revealed to be Robin Gunningham in a Reuters investigation, though his lawyers deny it—naturally. But knowing his identity doesn't diminish the allure of his work, my visit was two hours of awe and inspiration.

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Banksy doesn't skirt around issues deemed un-PC and the exhibit doesn't either, taken as a whole, the hits on all of his notes: critique of mass surveillance, consumerism, celebrity culture, colonialism and imperialism and, of course, art itself. It contains more than 200 works—originals, prints on various materials, lithographs, photographs, sculptures, and large-scale murals—assembled into an immersive experience that shatters what you'd expect from a traditional gallery show. There's an infinity room, a hologram installation, several films, and a number of interactive elements throughout that make the whole thing feel alive. Upon walking out of the exhibit, my first thought was, 'Wow, look at all these blank walls. Wouldn't it be cool if there was art out here, too?'

The social commentary is obviously front and center and couldn't be more brutal, spot-on, and sublime. His art has a way of becoming the defining statement of an issue with a simplicity that defies the falsely-implied complexity. It's almost like a rhetorical question that is begging someone to try and do better. The pieces that made him famous, the ones you've seen all over the internet, like Girl with Balloon, remain timeless and even more powerful when viewed off-screen. Sure, they may not all be originals, but the setting still conveys a seriousness. It's like growing up seeing pictures of famous waves like Cloudbreak — then actually being in the water and seeing

What I loved most about the show is that it tells a longer story about an artist who has been paying close attention to the world and is consistently ahead of the curve of social narratives. For instance, his early work in Gaza goes back 20 years and, in that time, he has continued to create and critique the terrible conditions endured by the Palestinians.

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The Fairgrounds Activity Center is easy to get to and tickets run $28–$34 depending on the day, plus $20 for parking. You'll want at least an hour, probably two, maybe three even . . . The Art of Banksy: Without Limits runs at the Del Mar Fairgrounds through April 22. Tickets at artofbanksyus.com.*

If you're anywhere near San Diego this weekend, don't be a kook, drop into some culture before it's too late.

Related: A Look Inside The World Famous Mexi Log Fest

Cape Solander, aka Cape Fear, and perhaps now Cape Crazy, has been on heater in recent days and weeks, with mutant swells igniting the monstrous surf spot.

And the most recent edit shows some of the chaos that can happen at Cape Solander, as a surfer towed in via jet ski, completely plows through a crowded lineup.

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The clip above comes from photographer Scott Gudahl, and it shows just an appetizer from the buffet of behemoth craziness from a recent run of swell at Cape Solander. Backwash waves sending surfers soaring into the air, distorted mountains of water disguising themselves as potentially rideable waves, and then the jet ski incident.

Gudahl captioned:

“The Cape goes next LEVEL. Only a few times a year do all the elements line up and bring this wave to life. Good to see everyone absolutely sending it and for the most part coming up unscathed with nothing but good stories to add to the memory bank. Here we have @jugjugheadhead absolutely sending it on the second wave.”

It’s not the first time, recently, that we saw Sydney’s premier slab going psycho. Just a few weeks back, longtime surf documentarian Tim Bonython released a full-length video of the freakish wave, calling it the “the best day ever.”

Related: Chaos and Carnage: ‘Best Day Ever’ at Sydney’s Psycho Slab Wave (Video)

But back to Gudahl’s clip. From his full edit, he explained:

“One of the scariest waves in the world woke up this week and the crew from Sydney and beyond showed up. It’s like a gladiator pit. Standing just feet away from chaos. 20’ waves breaking just feet from the rocks. Truly what slab surfing embodies. Guts, grit, and a whole lot of chaos. When a swell like this lines up on the east coast there is only one place I want to be watching and it’s on the cliff of Cape Solander.

“I Want to give a huge shout out to everyone that showed up this day. Truly one of the greatest shows on earth. Pictured on the thumbnail is Lucas Chumbo, and showcased in the video, Lucas fink sending it at the slab on his skimboard!! Hughie Vaughn, Kipp Caddy, Lex Oconnor, Tom Myers, Jughead, jackisbaker, Xavier Stark, Jesse Polock, Dylan Longbottom, roodot, Max Mcguigan and many others! Been a crazy month of swell here in Australia! Feeling blessed to call this place home.”

Related: Photos: Chumbo Goes Crazy At Psycho Sydney Slab

Watch the full video below.

Then came electric hydrofoils, and the debate raged even more blistering.

And one recent clip from the Gold Coast of Australia shows exactly why this conflict – the battle between foil surfers and traditional surfers – is a contentious topic. So contentious that even Kelly Slater decided to chime in. Check it out below.

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So, some quick context before we dive into the debate.

The unnamed electric hydrofoil surfer catches a wave from far outside, something these motorized crafts are capable of doing, unlike traditional surfboards one would paddle. Per the video, the electric hydrofoil surfer narrates:

“I’ve been on this wave now for well over 30 seconds. There’s nobody anywhere near me. There’s no surfers. Then, a surfer decides to drop in on the inside. I’ve been on this wave now for 35 seconds, and he decides to come in. Instead of respecting that I’ve been on the wave for freaking forever, he keeps going. It looks like I dropped in. I didn’t.”

Related: Foil Collision Nearly Cuts Surfer in Half: ‘Friendly Fire’ (Video)

Cue the controversy. Who’s in the wrong here?

Well, the comments section on the video ignited with various opinions.

Kelly Slater, always keen for a good debate, wrote: “Surely this guy can’t be this unaware?” (Presumably referring to the hydrofoil surfer.) The squabble continued, with others challenging the GOAT, egging him on, and prying provocative statements.

Related: Mark Zuckerberg Hydrofoil Surfs XL Wave (Video)

Elsewhere, Florida foil lord Eric Geiselman gave his opinion. Here’s the condensed version, but from his perspective, the foiler was in the wrong here.

“Sorry mate, that’s not the right line in at all,” Geiselman wrote. “Common sense would have told you you’re on the wave of the day on a righthand point with surfers (already wrong)… Could have rode the same wave kicked out off the shoulder…Bottom line get the foil into zones with no surfers.”

What’re your thoughts?

From surfing on Oahu’s famed North Shore, to the historic white sand beaches of Waikiki, to red clay hiking trails on Maui, and big-wave surf spots scattered throughout the islands – Hawaii has plenty to offer, either for the advanced surfer, or the casual observer.

However, there’s more to Hawaii than meets the eye. Below, the video explains that Hawaii has hundreds of more secret islands beyond the commonly-known ones today – Oahu, Maui, Kauai, et al – and they’re all hiding beneath the surface. Watch below.

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“Not all Americans know that Hawaii is much bigger than it seems,” the narrator explains. “In reality, the Hawaiian archipelago stretches far beyond the usual eight islands. It actually includes about 137 volcanic islands and atolls, and spans nearly 1,600 miles.”

Why is that? Well, it’s a deep dive back in history. When the islands first formed, it all started from volcanic activity to the northeast of modern-day Hawaii. A chain of islands was formed. But as time passed, the early islands sank, and the newer ones remained. Those newer ones are the Hawaiian Islands we know and cherish today.

Related: 500-Year-Old Fort in Middle of the Ocean Still Stands: ‘Nobody Can Destroy It’ (Video)

“We only see the tip of the iceberg,” the narrator continues. “As a significant part of Hawaii is hidden underwater, because all the islands were formed by the Hawaiian hotspot, a source of volcanic activity located beneath the tectonic plate.”

He adds:

“This movement created the entire Hawaiian archipelago, with the western part being the oldest, and the eastern part – those eight islands – being the youngest. Interestingly, one of the oldest atolls, Midway, was used as a military base and now serves as an emergency spot for trans-Pacific flights.”

Learn something new every day.

Related: Inside Earth’s Most Remote Island: ‘Almost Untouched by Humans’

The waters off Los Angeles to San Diego serve as a nursery, of sorts, for these young whites, with a suitable water temperature and ample prey (stingrays, fish, and so on).

And it’s typically in the summer and fall when the great whites start showing up in California’s shallow waters, mingling amongst surfers. But this year has been different. It’s been unusually warm; a potential super El Niño is on the way. And so, shark sightings on the Southern California coast, amidst surfers, has been more frequent. See below.

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The images come from Bo Bridges, a photographer and videographer based in Los Angeles’ South Bay, featuring scenes from Manhattan Beach. They show surfers unwittingly sharing the lineup with juvenile great whites. But the drone shows a different perspective. Regarding the unseen beasts lurking beneath, Bridges captioned:

“They’re back! It’s been a little over 10 years since the last great white summit here in the South Bay! And it looks Mother Nature and El Niño have invited all the babies. Crazy thing was – I was out paddling this morning and we had one shark breach about 100’ away 5’ in the air!! So of course, I had to investigate further! Found em!!”

Related: ‘Hundreds of Sharks’ Bombard Pro Surfer on Fishing Trip (Video)

Previously, in recent weeks and months in Southern California, the shark activity has already been atypically high. First, there was the surfer in Newport Beach who was circled by an 8-foot shark while sitting on her board. Then, a 20-year-old hooked one off the Hermosa Beach Pier, then stripped down to his undies, and set it free. And most recently, a frenzy erupted also at Hermosa, when fishermen caught over 20 sharks in one day.

And experts predict that the high shark activity will continue into the summer.

“We started seeing baby white sharks about four-and-a-half feet long about a month ago, which is really early,” said Dr. Chris Lowe of the Shark Lab. “Now the simple explanation for that is the water is really warm right now, unusually warm for this time of year. So based on that, we predict it’s going to be a very sharky summer.”

Related: Shocking New Footage Shows Brazilian Surfer Attacked by Shark (Video)

Why a ski and snowboarding federation might want to control surfing in the Olympics? Good question. And one that’s still vague and convoluted.

Regardless, USA Surfing fought hard to maintain control of their sport in the Olympic Games, and they came out victorious. See below for the celebrations.

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Long story short: U.S. Ski and Snowboard had attempted to take control of Olympic surfing, under the helm of former World Surf League CEO Sophie Goldschmidt. Their claim was that they had the “experience and relationships in surfing are unmatched from a leadership perspective.”

But skiing and snowboarding are completely separate sports from surfing, right? Last we checked, the answer was “yes.”

Per a press release from USA Surfing:

“The U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Committee (USOPC) today certified USA Surfing as the National Governing Body (NGB) for Olympic surfing in the United States, unlocking what every American surfer, coach, and coastal community has been working toward: a fully resourced, surfer-led Olympic program competing at home for the LA28 Olympic Games at Lower Trestles.

“USA Surfing arrives at this moment ready, with a committed high-performance investment, a surfer-built talent pipeline that has helped produce back-to-back Olympic gold medals. The team will hit the ground running with the full support of the sport's international federation, the International Surfing Association (ISA), the World Surf League (WSL), top professional surfers and former Olympians, the surf industry, and an unprecedented bipartisan coalition of elected leaders.”

Related: ‘Overpriced and ‘Outraged’: How to Buy Tickets for LA28 Olympic Surfing

In a joint statement from surfing Olympians Caroline Marks, Carissa Moore, Griffin Colapinto, Caity Simmers, Kolohe Andino, they said:

“It is of utmost importance for surfers to be represented by the organization that knows us and our sport, and is exclusively dedicated to what we need to be successful. We also believe it is imperative to preserve the close connection and mentorship between developing talents and the pros on tour who will compete at the next Olympic Games.

“Surfers must have a strong voice and receive proper world-class support to improve and achieve peak performances. This is best achieved through USA Surfing as the National Governing Body – an organization with new leadership who deeply understands, represents, and serves surfers.”

Congrats, USA Surfing. Next stop, Lower Trestles for the LA28 Games. Onwards.

Related: Surfers Outraged at New Olympic Qualification Path: ‘Complete Disrespect’

A swarm of bees descended on the longtime surfing hub – with its distinct peaks ranging from Rights off Point, to the Point, to Middles, on down to Gravels – with surfers in the water swatting at something other than others in the lineup over petty two-footers.

And the scene was all captured on camera by Surfline, showing a swarm clouding the lens, with surfers battling over shorebreak ankle-slappers in the background. See below.

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It’s unclear whether or not a mass-stinging event went down during the swarm, and the comments section was no help. But still, a massive rabble of buzzers, equipped with their stinging tails, is a frightening sight.

However, according to the University of Florida, here’s more on swarms of bees and why they happen:

“A honey bee swarm occurs when a colony reproduces by splitting. As the colony grows, the queen bee departs with about half of the worker bees to establish a new colony, while the remaining bees stay behind with a newly emerging queen. This process is crucial for the survival and expansion of the bee population.

“Before leaving, the bees prepare by constructing special queen cells in the hive, where the next generation of queens will develop. Once the new queen is nearly ready to emerge, the old queen leads the swarm—often consisting of tens of thousands of bees—in search of a suitable location to build a new home.”

Related: ‘Hundreds of Sharks’ Bombard Pro Surfer on Fishing Trip (Video)

Fun, but morbid, fact: bees kill an estimated 72 to 100 people per year in the US.

Good to know.

What would you do if a swarm of bees assaulted the lineup when you were in the water? Run to shore? Dive deep and hold your breath? Or simply enjoy the lineup, presumably thinned-out, and keep surfing?

Might be your best chance to catch those two-footers all to yourself.

Related: Drone Captures 'Epic' View of Tornado Rip Tide in Ocean off Australia (Video)

Mark Zuckerberg launched Facebook, former United States president (and actor) Ronald Reagan passed away, and the devastating earthquake and tsunami killed hundreds of thousands in Indonesia. So, not all good, but not bad either. Comme ci, comme ça.

One spectacular thing that did happen in 2004, however, was the launch of Laguna Beach: The Real OC, a first-of-its-kind reality show on MTV, which followed around a rich group of high school students living in the affluent Southern California town of Laguna Beach. They surfed, they partied, they cheated on significant others…it was a huge hit.

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To be honest, there wasn't much surfing in the show. Just cutaway clips. It was more about the drama, and there was plenty of that to go around.

And now, 20 years later, the cast of Laguna Beach has reunited to look back on the good (and not so good) times they spent in their earlier years, exclusively showing on Roku.

Having grown up in Laguna Beach, myself, I remember when MTV came to town and started rolling cameras. One of the stars Kristin Kavallari (now married to footballer Jay Cutler) was a senior when I was a freshman at Laguna Beach High School. There was fierce backlash in the town, with parents holding signs outside schools that read “Keep MTV out of our town!” and “Laguna Beach is NOT made for TV.”

Related: 12 Celebrities Who Actually Surf (And Some Seriously Rip)

Well, in fact, it was. The show was wildly famous.

But the show was primarily centered around Stephen Colleti, a handsome yet arguably substanceless, hero who was caught in a love triangle between the two female leads, Cavallari and Lauren Conrad. The drama ensued.

During the show, however, Colleti worked at the local surf shop, Laguna Surf & Sport, a quaint local shop offering all your surfing needs, and still going strong today since 1982. And in the clip above, on the heels of the reunion, he returned to his old stomping grounds, even taking a call from a customer and haplessly attempting to help.

Anyway, a nice trip down memory lane.

Related: DJ Mega Star Kaskade Surfs Kelly Slater’s Wave Pool (Video)

Here, perfectly formed A-frames can hold their shape up to 20 feet on the face and beyond, providing long, powerful walls that are ideal for committed, high-performance surfing. Let's take a dive into the various aspects that make Main Break turn on.

Swell Source

The primary source for surf comes from strong low-pressure systems (winter storms) tracking eastward from beneath South Africa across the Southern Ocean and South Indian Ocean. As these storms interact with trailing areas of high-pressure, they generate strong swell producing fetches of west (W), southwest (SW), or south (S) winds, depending on storm positioning.

The most consistent and powerful storms develop during the Southern Hemisphere fall, winter, spring months (April through September), although rideable surf can be found in summer as well.

Southwest Australia sits within close proximity to the vigorous storm-track of the mid latitudes, occasionally getting hammered by the storms themselves. The close distance of the source helps to minimize the decay of swell energy before impacting the beaches -- one of the big reasons behind the raw power felt when surfing here. Although, it can often be too raw and wooly.

Swell Window

Margaret River is wide-open to it's swell source, capable of receiving waves anywhere from south (S) through north-northwest (NNW) without obstruction. However, for optimal wave quality at Main Break, the sweet spot is from the southwest to west (SW–W). Fortunately, this is the most common swell direction for the region.

Balance is key for producing the famous A-frame peaks the break is known for. Too much north in the swell, the rights break too far wide, and lefts lose their shape with more frequent sections. Too much south in the swell, the lefts tend to break too far out to sea, while rights become sectioned and more walled out.

Bathymetry

Extending offshore from the break, the continental shelf slopes gradually into deeper water with relatively uniform contours. There are no major underwater features like nearshore canyons or ridges to disrupt incoming swell.

However, about 48-50km out to sea, after a depth of about 180m, there is a sharp drop-off to much deeper water. Right at this ledge is where longer period swell energy (15-16 seconds or greater) inbound for Margaret River will suddenly start to be influenced by the ocean floor. I suspect there may be something more intricate going on with the bathymetry around this ledge to impact swell for Margs. Although, more research would need to be done to determine such.

Meanwhile, closer to shore, the local bathymetry around Main Break plays a key role in shaping this iconic surf spot. Supported by a deeper-water bay to the north and a smaller channel along the southern side, incoming swell refracts over a shallow reef that extends from the point. This process bends wave energy inward from both directions, concentrating it over the Main Break reef.

As the swell converges, it forms powerful, well-defined peaks that are a hallmark of the break. The result is a classic A-frame wave, delivering both clean, peeling lefts and rights—one of the defining features of Margaret River’s world-class surf.

Wind Conditions

High pressure positioned south of the region creates favorable offshore conditions for Margaret River surf. With the coastline oriented slightly south of west (around 260°), easterly winds—from NE through E to SE—blow offshore, grooming incoming swell into clean, well-shaped lines. A true easterly wind is perfectly offshore, offering optimal surface conditions at Main Break.

When high pressure sits directly overhead, it typically produces a classic diurnal wind cycle. Mornings begin with calm or light offshore winds, ideal for clean surf, followed by a light to moderate onshore seabreeze in the afternoon under clear skies. This pattern is most pronounced during the summer months.

Margaret River is also known for its consistently windy environment due to its proximity to the Southern Ocean storm track. During winter, these storms are stronger, more frequent, and pass closer to the coast, leading to highly variable conditions. As a result, the best surf windows often occur just after a swell peak—when the storm has moved on and a brief ridge of high pressure brings cleaner, more organized conditions.

Best Specs

Swell Direction: SW to W.

Swell Period: 14-15 seconds or longer.

Surf Size: A little overhead to more than four-times overhead.

Wind: Calm or offshore from an easterly direction (E is straight offshore).

Tide: Depends on size, but generally handles all tides. Mid and incoming.

Season: Good surf can be found year-round, but the shoulder seasons (autumn and spring) tend to offer more quality days overall.

Late March through April has seen the east coast of Australia blessed with consistent swells, courtesy of several cyclones migrating down through Vanuatu and Fiji toward New Zealand’s North Island. The most recent, Cyclone Vaianu, tracked south to keep its distance for Australia to generate long-period groundswell for both Queensland and New South Wales. But literally smashed the North Island of New Zealand, with huge swells and a much more devastating effect.

The Easterly direction swells are ideal, hitting most point breaks, producing solid four-to-six-foot waves, with select locations significantly larger on the peak of the pulses. The most severe was Tropical Cyclone Maila, which reached Category 5 strength, impacting the far northern tip of Queensland before crossing into the Northern Territory, then reforming off northwest Australia and virtually circumnavigating the continent. In doing so, it crossed coastlines in largely unpopulated regions, where crocodiles are arguably the only local surfers. But it was not responsible for producing surf in inhabited regions.

On the Gold Coast, beach breaks and points have been running at capacity, coinciding with the school holidays on the back of the Easter break. Despite the crowds, the sheer volume of waves on offer has meant that scoring barrels has not been difficult for those with the skill and patience. Barrel riding has been the “plat du jour” on the points—satisfying the appetite of anyone can make the late sand dredging drops. And there is no shortage of talent in this department; the real question is simply how many others will be sharing the same perfect, grinding pit when you are comfortably slotted.

It would be safe to say that Snapper Rocks, down through Coolangatta, is among the most densely populated stretches of surfing real estate on the planet. It is not unusual to see several hundred frothing souls in the lineup before sunrise on any given swell. Safe to say not a lot of employers are too stoked about the consistent nature of the swell.

Related: Photos: Chumbo Goes Crazy At Psycho Sydney Slab

Related: Inside Earth’s Most Remote Island: ‘Almost Untouched by Humans’

Often referred to as “the yips,” it’s a scientific condition in which an athlete suddenly spasms at the most critical moment. In other words, they choke.

But Slater, in all his decades of dominance, has been forced to overcome such mental adversities. And below, he shares a little bit about defeating those evil cerebral demons.

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Speaking with Dave Woods, a spiritual and mental health guru, Slater explained:

“Do you guys know your negative inner voice? I don’t think people would know how powerful my negative inner voice has been in my life.

“I had this moment, about 20 years ago, in South Africa. I was surfing against Danny Wills from Australia. I knew I shouldn’t catch this one wave. But I caught the wave. In my head, I was like, ‘You’re such an idiot.’ That was my thought. I fell on the wave, and I handed him priority. Right then, I went into this process of accepting the mistake I made, changing my inner voice. And just surrendering.

“Then, 30 minutes later, the most perfect wave came to me. And I wouldn’t have caught it if I had made that mistake before. I had to accept it. You can control this stuff. You can feel the energy change in your body, in your thoughts, in your energy.”

Related: Kelly Slater’s 2,000ft Austin Surf Park Claims ‘Better Than 99% of Ocean Waves’

See, even Slater – the chosen one – makes mistakes from time to time.

And yes, the yips are a real, medical thing. Per the Mayo Clinic:

“The most common symptom associated with the yips is an involuntary muscle jerk, although some people experience tremors, twitches, spasms or freezing.”

In surfing, a case of the yips could cost ya. Something to keep in mind. Literally.

Related: Kelly Slater Is Going to Be a Dad (Again!) at 54 Years Old

But experts are sounding the alarm, claiming that the sea – which borders Europe, Africa, and Asia – is due for a potential mega-tsunami in the next 30-50 years.

And it’s not the typical type of tsunami; you know, the ones from shifting tectonic plates beneath the seafloor. This one could come from a volcanic landslide, which, if history is to serve as precedence, these types of waves are the largest and most devastating.

Per the prediction from UNESCO:

“There is a 100% chance of a tsunami of at least 1 meter in height occurring in the Mediterranean in the next 30-50 years.

“As a densely populated coastal area with seismic and volcanic activity-prone areas, the risk posed by both small and destructive tsunamis in the north-eastern Atlantic Ocean and its connected seas like the Mediterranean, North, Baltic, and Black seas must be faced head-on.”

But some consider that height estimate to be quite conservative. For example, per the video shown above, should the highly-active Mount Etna in Italy collapse and send untold masses of land into the sea, the resulting tsunami could be massive.

Related: 42-Foot Waves Slam Mariana Islands from Super Typhoon Sinlaku (Video)

The YouTuber writes:

“The volcano sits on soft, clay-rich sediments that slope toward the Mediterranean. Over thousands of years, the growing weight of the volcanic structure has begun pulling the entire southeastern flank downhill toward the sea. Underwater measurements show that the seafloor itself is moving together with the mountain above it.

“And this raises a disturbing question. What happens if the sliding flank suddenly accelerates?”

It’s also not the first tsunami to hit the region in modern times, although the last one was quite a few years ago. Per Britannica:

"One of the most destructive tsunamis in antiquity took place in the eastern Mediterranean Sea on July 21, 365 ce. A fault slip in the subduction zone beneath the island of Crete produced an earthquake with an estimated magnitude of 8.0–8.5, which was powerful enough to raise parts of the western third of the island up to 10 metres (33 feet).”

Related: 500ft Ancient Tsunami Split Hawaii in Half and Is Still Visible Today (Video)

And when he’s not surfing, scoring the regions renowned sand-bottomed tubes, he’s doing other outside activities. One of his favorites? Fishing.

But during a recent excursion, in which Barley motored out on his jet ski to hook some fish, he encountered something else. Sharks. Hundreds of them. Likely a shiver of spinner sharks, engaging in a wild and rabid feeding frenzy, with Barley caught in the middle.

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Posting the footage to his Instagram, Barley captioned:

“A MASSIVE Shark Feeding Frenzy Engulfed my @seadoo while I was out fishing today! And on top of the hundreds of Sharks eating bait over a 4acre wide area, a big school of Red Drum blitzed in to join the party! Sharks & Drum coexisting to devour menhaden… a full-on Nat Geo moment if I’ve ever had one!

“The things you see in Cape Hatteras never cease to amaze me! Also, 10/10 would not recommend being in the middle of a ball of Spinner Sharks though…I’m very fortunate one didn’t sky right into me or all my gear.”

Related: 20 Sharks Hooked in One Day at SoCal Beach: ‘This Is Concerning’ (Video)

Even CNN picked up the crazy clip, with the narrator noting:

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“Barley accidentally caught a shark, and the shark was able to cut through his fishing line and break free. Barley drove his watercraft back to the spot where he caught the shark to take more videos, but he realized he was surrounded. The sharks were feeding on bait fish. Barley believed they were spinner sharks. And he said, if you see dozens of sharks above the surface, there’s probably a lot more below. He says he stayed calm, and got out safely.”

Glad Barley is okay after this harrowing encounter.

Related: Shocking New Footage Shows Brazilian Surfer Attacked by Shark (Video)

That's exactly what Jacob Burke's new film, A Fish Out of Water, is: an ode to one of the Atlantic's best waves by a guy who's put in more time than most.

I first met Jacob Burke when he was shirtless and covered in paint, hard at work on a business he was helping restore and rebuild after a fire. Like with most things he does, he was totally consumed in his craft. The only thing that could have broken his focus would have been if the notoriously onshore winds at Soup Bowl, switched offshore. They did.

A message went out from his father Alan's phone, 'Winds looking good, driving over now.'

Two minutes later, a message pinged from older brother Josh, 'Just packed up the car, see you soon.'

Jacob rinsed off the excess paint and changed into boardshorts. Within 5 minutes of the wind switching, all three Burkes--Alan, Josh, and Jacob--were simultaneously en route to the island's marquee wave. If it's on, they're out there.

Jacob's latest film was filmed entirely in Barbados throughout 2025, the project is built around the island's crown jewel and one of the more demanding right-hand barrels in the Atlantic. Soup Bowl is not a wave that flatters visitors. I felt painfully akward surfing their on my backside on a board that was not designed for hollow pits.

It demands dedication, the kind that comes from years of reading its every swell, its many moods, sections, and its freakish tendency to go from playful to consequential in the span of a few hours. Jacob Burke has that familiarity in his blood. Groomed to the rhythms of the island by their father, the legendary Alan Burke, Jacob and Josh have long been the measuring stick at Soup Bowl. Ask anyone who's surfed Barbados what it looks like when it's really on and the odds are a Burke (or a GOAT) is somewhere in the story.

Of the two brothers, Jacob is the more free-spirited one. He competes occasionally — representing Barbados at ISA events around the world — but his natural habitat is less the jersey and more the craft. He hand shapes his own alaias, among other shapes. He makes his own wooden fins. He keeps a low profile on social media. But, just like his brother and father, he's a weapon in the water and seems to see things invisible to most. Finding one's way through the exit at Soup Bowl is no easy task but Jacob makes it look like second-nature.

A Fish Out of Water is the proof of concept for that approach.

Related: Pumping Barbados and the Burke Brothers are a Perfect Match

And legend has it, nobody was ever able to conquer this unusual nautical bastion. It literally has a 360-degree moat surrounding it, which was protected by cannons, back in its heyday. Today, it’s just a tourist attraction; but the history of Murid-Janira runs deep.

Below, the video dives into the history of Murid-Janjira.

First off, the Murid-Janira fortress lies off India’s Murud, Maharashtra in the Arabian Sea. It’s a little over 1,000 miles from the surf haven of the Maldives Islands.

But back to the history.

According to the local tourism board:

“The origins of Murud-Janjira trace back to the 15th century, when local fishermen constructed a small wooden fort on a massive rock to protect themselves from pirates. Recognizing its strategic importance, Malik Ambar, an Abyssinian regent of the Ahmadnagar Sultanate, replaced the wooden structure with a robust stone fortification in 1567 AD. This transformation marked the beginning of Janjira’s prominence as a naval stronghold.

“Throughout its history, the fort became a coveted prize for various powers, including the Marathas, Mughals, and Portuguese. Despite numerous attempts, its defenses remained unbreached, earning it the moniker ‘Unconquerable Janjira.’ The fort’s strategic location on the bustling maritime trade route connecting Broach, Daman, Diu, and Mangalore made it a vital hub for commerce and military operations. In the 1500s, it attracted traders dealing in luxury goods such as ivory, gold, silk, horses, and even slaves.”

Related: Inside Earth’s Most Remote Island: ‘Almost Untouched by Humans’

And today, it still stands. And tourists can visit. Pretty remarkable.

Per the video above diving into the historic landmark:

“For centuries, powerful empires tried to conquer it. The Portuguese, the British, and even the mighty Maratha forces all failed. No matter the strategy, no matter the army, this fortress remained unconquered.

“Even today, its structure remains largely intact, resisting time just as it once resisted armies.

“This is the story of Murud-Janjira — the sea fortress that stood against everything.”

Related: 42-Foot Waves Slam Mariana Islands from Super Typhoon Sinlaku (Video)

26-year-old Mathen Jackson was cliff-jumping at Lekeleke Bay, commonly referred to as the “End of the World,” on Hawaii’s Big Island when the incident went down.

That was when Ian Kowalczyk, a former firefighter and Navy personnel, happened to be passing by, noticed the man in trouble, and jumped in to help.

But alas, his efforts were in vain.

“I just wanted to let his family know I’m really sorry, I tried as hard as I could, and I’m sorry I couldn’t save him,” Kowalczyk told Hawaii News Now.

Jackson was struggling to stay afloat some 50 yards off the cliff-jumping area at the End of the World. Kowalczyk and a friend were attempting to assist the 26-year-old back to shore, but it wasn’t working. Kowalczyk continued:

“But then he started taking on water, and he was breathing in water and I don’t even remember, but I just jumped in, and I started praying, and I was like ‘Jesus please, if you can help me, just please help me rescue this man.’ The chop picked up, I thought it was going to be two of us that were dead, and it was so much harder than I thought it was going to be to help him.”

Related: 500ft Ancient Tsunami Split Hawaii in Half and Is Still Visible Today (Video)

They got the victim to the cliffside, but a rogue wave separated them, and Jackson was sent back into the drink. “When the wave took him, I don’t think I’ve ever felt so defeated in my life,” Kowalczyk said.

Soon, paramedics and first responders were on the scene and able to retrieve Jackson’s body, then perform CPR. He was pronounced dead later at the hospital.

Taking the opportunity to remind folks about the risks of the sea, Honolulu Ocean Safety Lt. Dennis Coglietta said:

“From the ocean safety standpoint, we always suggest you come to guarded beaches and not try to push in an area you may be unfamiliar with or unsure about what could be unsafe below the surface.”

Always know your limits. Always listen to the lifeguards. If in doubt, don’t go out.

Related: Woman Dangling from 70ft Cliff Above Ocean Rescued in San Francisco (Video)

For most, it’s California icon; a feat of engineering, under the helm of architect Irving Morrow, and a testament to human industry. But to surfers – at least those in the know – beneath the Golden Gate, there’s one of the world’s most famed, yet secretive, novelty surf spots.

Fort Point. A fickle lefthander breaking right beneath the steel pillars of the bridge, and one of the most photogenic waves in all of surfing.

And so, a few years back, Santa Cruz photographer Ryan “Chachi” Craig executed a strike mission up to Fort Point for a rare summertime northwest swell, the desired direction, so that waves can funnel through the San Francisco Bay, and ignite Fort Point.

“You can travel anywhere in the world, and people will know the Golden Gate Bridge,” Chachi said. “It’s one of California’s, if not the world’s, most iconic features.”

As a kid, Chachi and his father would travel to San Francisco, walk the bridge, and admire its greatness. Little did he know that decades later, he’d be battling angry locals, and scoring images at perhaps the world’s most unique, yet picturesque, wave.

Chachi continued: “When I finally went there, it was just like any wave. It has its moments. But it’s a very fickle beast. It’s just hilarious how people can try and lock down a spot that’s one of the most visible waves on the planet. That’s always been pretty funny to me. People can be vibe-y out there.”

And when you get the right surfers on the wave, the magic happens. Like during this run of swell, in which Chachi had two stylish NorCal surfers in front of his lens. He added:

“When you get anyone like Noah Wegrich or Nat Young – any goofy-footer who is light on their feet – it’s a special place to shoot. The bridge looks huge from any angle, but even more so from the water. So, when it’s on, it’s worth the drive for me one hundred percent.”

Related: Photos: Chumbo Goes Crazy At Psycho Sydney Slab

Even though the wave is something spectacular to behold, it doesn’t come without its dangers – whether it’s the eggy crowd, or Mother Nature herself. But doesn’t that make something that much more special? To Chachi it does. He continued:

“I’ve heard many stories of people being rescued, getting sucked out into the bay. You have to be a good paddler, for sure. But it’s one of those bucket list places in surfing. It’s just special.”

Below, check out a handful of images from Fort Point, all courtesy of Ryan “Chachi” Craig.

Related: Fickle & Firing: Puerto Rican Slab Fest by Ryan "Chachi" Craig

One such location, the Northern Mariana Islands, which are a commonwealth of the US, are getting hit particularly hard. Footage is emerging from monumental waves pounding the coastlines of Saipan in the Marianas, with extreme force.

Check out the clip below.

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Captioning the clip, John Barber wrote: “Biggest I’ve ever seen this place,” accompanied by the classic, head exploding emoji.

The wave featured in the clip is not for the average surfer. It’s a slab wave, sucking up from deep water, then hitting a shelf, and spitting its guts onto the underwater rock shelf. Perhaps someone like Nathan Florence could wrangle the wave, but he’s in a league of his own.

Related: Madman Faces ‘Unfathomably Large’ New Zealand 30ft Cyclone Swell (Video)

Per the latest from  Zoom Earth, the weather forecasting model, here’s more info on the storm:

“Sinlaku is located 33 km south of Saipan, and has tracked northwestward at 7 km/h (4 knots) over the past 6 hours. Minimum central pressure at 14/12:00 UTC is 930 hPa. Maximum significant wave height is 13.7 meters (45 feet).”

Previously, massive – yet stormy – waves were also seen slamming Saipan, with one veterinarian stationed in the Marianas captioning:

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“There are people I know and love who are not yet in a safe shelter. To anybody who is not in a concrete structure- PLEASE for the love of God, get to a shelter ASAP.

“Like, now. Because it’s only going to get worse.

“Watching this from vet school while my family is on Saipan makes me wanna puke. But they are tough.”

There has also been catastrophic flooding on nearby Guam, and the death toll is still unknown. The storm will intensity will decrease as it continues its path through the Pacific, onwards towards Hawaii, where remnants of swell will be seen.

But for now, weather officials are continuing to warn:

“This is a dangerous system. Possible hazards include damaging winds, heavy rainfall, storm surge, rough seas, mudslides, and flash flooding.”

Stay safe; stay tuned.

Related: 42-Foot Waves Slam Mariana Islands from Super Typhoon Sinlaku (Video)

That particular stretch of coastline, dubbed Oriente Salvaje by the tourism association that developed the 12 or so miles along the Land of Volcanoes’ Pacific coast, rests “highly vulnerable to climate-related disruptions,” Rodrigo Barraza, an early developer, tells the Guardian. Apart from his small hotel and the dozens of other businesses that form the coalition, there are restaurants, commercial fisher folk, drone operators—and the community at large—who stand to lose much.

The surf that brings the hordes is, of course, the very surf that can undo the fanciful little shangri-la as storms the world round are wreaking more and more havoc.

In 2023, Barraza and co. teamed up with Save The Waves Coalition (STW), the international surfing nonprofit launched “by a ragtag group of international surfers who were watching their favorite surf breaks around the world get destroyed." STW designated Oriente Salvaje as one of its World Surfing Reserves as a locale with a “huge overlap between biodiversity and surf locations," according to STW CEO Nik Strong-Cvetich.

“Parametric insurance” is increasingly attracting property owners, commercial fisher folk, and farmers, but this is, according to the Guardian, the first time the model will be tested on surfing.

For STW, parametric insurance “became a weird obsession,” Strong-Cvetich says. “We scoured the world for places that were easily disrupted by a climate event and had a large dependence on the surf economy.”

Ever since, STW has been working with international insurance brokers Willis Towers Watson (WTW) to develop the highly bespoke financial model. As for the potential insurance payouts? The measurable trigger metric is rainfall, at least for this region, based upon 40 years of rainfall data, and payouts will coincide with “observable income loss” by anywhere from a few hundred to several thousand regional businesses.

Save The Waves is still vying for a payout strictly dedicated to ecosystem restoration. The organization’s local coordinator, Angelo Picardo, says “El Salvador is a developing country and we don’t have an insurance culture—people don’t even have health insurance—so there’s a lot of work you have to do on the ground to bring people on board.”

Premiums are another hurdle, but as the Salvadorian government channels millions of dollars into surf-tourism initiatives, vested surf-adjacent entities and residents are encouraged.

“Everybody’s positive. There’s nothing but good things to hear from this. We just hope that it turns out to be the best that it can be,” says Barraza.

Payout size, in true insurance biz form, is still TBD, lest anyone get any ideas about tampering with the weather, but STW is hoping to have a pilot underway by June, the rainy season along El Salvador’s Pacific coast. We’ll be watching…

Related: This Costa Rican Corridor Should Be A Blueprint For The World

1. You never know who you will meet in the lineup.

I was waiting for a wave at Rincon with 300 of my best mates, shortly after the book was published. A guy paddled up to me, “Hey Shaun, I’m Gordon Sichi, principal of Anacapa High School. I would love you to speak to my 80 students about Surfer’s Code." I went down to the school, chatted to the students and then during my presentation I had an idea. I said Surfer’s Code is my Code and I wrote to it to inspire a group of young people that were coming to the beach to create awareness for an environmental problem at Rincon. I said I wrote it in 15 minutes - 12 lines every line beginning with "I will." I said, "What about all of you writing your Codes – a 15 minute exercise." About a week later I got back an email with the beautiful lines of commitment from the students. 80 x 12 = 960 lines of Code. The very first line I ever read was, “I will always be myself.” And the words touched me deeply and ultimately set me off on a different life journey.

2. Tough guys can be vulnerable.

On the North Shore of Oahu, you meet a lot of tough guys – in and out of the surf. One thing they all have in common is they never show any vulnerability. I once gave a talk to a group of inmates at Santa Barbara County Jail. All of them wrote their Code - 12 lines each beginning with “I will”, and then at the end, after they had written their Codes, they read their Codes out loud to the other inmates. It came to the turn of the biggest, baddest dude in the group – he was like a man mountain, and he started reading his Code and he came to the statement “I will forgive myself.” And he started to cry. And I looked around to see what the other inmates would do after he'd made this intensely vulnerable statement. Well, they all started crying too, and all walked up to him and hugged him. Inside those walls of imprisonment, it was an uplifting moment of catharsis, love, and a release from the bondage of guilt.

3. The meaning and purpose of life.

At every event, after all the participants have written their Codes, I tell them that because I have read hundreds of thousands of lines of Code, I have come to observe the true meaning of life. This is not hypothesis, this is observation. While everyone writes different lines of Code, people only write 2 lines of Code. And the two lines they write are “I will be better.” We all have a genetic compulsion to be better today than we were yesterday to be better tomorrow than we are today. So, this is 1/2 of our life purpose - to be better. The other half of life purpose is defined by the other line of code which is “I will help others be better.” We're not on this world by ourselves to succeed on one long solo mission but we want to uplift, inspire and help other people to be better too.

4. You are never too old to learn.

After 10 years of speaking about my surfing experiences, and having people write their Code, their future promises for a better life, I thought I need to learn more about the work that I'm doing, to get a stronger foundational basis. So, I went back to graduate school, and I studied for a Master of Science in Leadership at Northeastern University in Boston. At the time the university was exploring a relationship with the WSL, so I got a 50% discount on tuition! To embark on learning at an older age one has to have two things at the forefront of one's mind: curiosity and humility - a motivation to want to explore new theories and an awareness that there's a lot about life that you don't know. Hitting the books can help in one’s quest for self-improvement and also can help sharpen the blade of knowledge.

5. Don't paddle in.

Over the years a lot of surfers have come up to me either in the water or on land and said Shaun, “Why the hell did you write that line - "I will ride and not paddle in to shore." “It's caused me to be late for appointments, late for dates, late for all sorts of things.” As surfers we know that the last wave is always the hardest wave to get. For me, I like this line because whenever you start your surfing session, you paddle out with such hope and optimism, on such an uplifting note, with such a positive attitude. Ending a surf session by paddling in without a wave is such a defeatist attitude, like you are slinking in with your tail between your legs. Riding in is just so much more elegant and respectful to yourself.

6. Surfing heals.

After I lost my teenage son Mathew, my stoke had gone out. A friend that I was at school with, Graham Taylor, kept phoning me to try to take me surfing but I had no desire. Eventually he wore me down and took me to a place I'd never surfed before, north of Durban, my hometown. I paddled out into the warm Indian Ocean as the sun was rising over the ocean and I was crying. I paddled through the first wave, and as it washed over me, it swept my tears away. I paddled out further and the second wave washed more of my tears away. And when I paddled out to the back I could feel that my son was with me. I swung around and caught that first wave and it was like my world that had tipped over had started to right itself. And with each wave I felt better and with each wave I felt more healed. And I paddled out to my mate and I asked. “What's the name of this break?” As surfers we know every single break in the world has its own unique name. He looked over at me as the sun was rising out of the Indian Ocean he said, “it's called Sunrise.” A new life began for me that day...

7. Talking story can change mindstate.

I always loved the Hawaiian term: “talk story.” Surfing stories have great power for transformation. While the stories of great leaders and writers may inspire us, it is our own story that can transform us. As I begin each speaking event, I ask the audience to text me a word that describes what they feel about life. I say that the results are anonymous, so be truthful. I then form an instantaneous word cloud. After doing this with hundreds of thousands of people, the most popular words are stress, anxiety, depression and disconnection. I call it a Sad Mindstate – a dark and depressing view of the world. I then tell four surfing stories and then everyone writes and shares a simple 15 minute exercise – they write 12 lines each line beginning with ‘I will.” People write their own life story in the form of twelve promises. After the exercise, I ask the audience to text me one word they're taking home with them. The two most popular words are hope and purpose. Surfing stories can change Mindstate from 95% negative to 100% positive - this is the power of surfing.

8. You don’t have to get the best wave to have the best time.

20 years ago, when the book first came out, I was still totally obsessed with surfing and still super competitive. At every surf break, even though I had retired from pro surfing, I wanted to be the best guy out in the water, and I wanted to get the best wave in a set. I now no longer have that single minded obsession to be the best and ride every wave to the best of my ability. Now, I get just as stoked by paddling out at my home reef break and catching a few waves when it's three to four feet, and leaving the best waves to the best guys. I now enjoy a more leisurely type of stoke, one that is no longer fueled by trying to be the best on the best wave. Contentment comes with being aware of who you are and what you are, in and out of the surf.

9. Giving creates meaning.

One of the most powerful lessons I’ve learned is that meaning comes from giving. One of my favorite programs is called “Double Shakka.” Every time I do a paid event for an organization, I do a free one – for a school, university, prison, recovery center or community group. Whether it’s your time, your energy, your mojo, your stoke or your wisdom - what you give has impact. I’ve seen how even small acts of giving can change someone’s direction. Drop a stone, create a ripple, build a wave. In giving, we step outside of ourselves and connect to something more important. Giving creates a sense of fulfillment that cannot be achieved through self-focus alone. I know that the more I give, the more I gain, and that gives my life more meaning.

Related: 10 Surf Shops To Support in 2026

10. Words shape reality.

Over the years, I have watched thousands of people write their Code. Each line begins with two simple words: “I will.” Yet those words carry enormous power. They turn intention into commitment and thought into action. I read an interview about UCLA’s winning women’s NCAA basketball coach: "Over the last few months, the UCLA coach started their film sessions with "I will" declarations. Each player was asked to write five to seven statements each day.” It obviously worked quite well since they won the 2026 basketball title. I’ve seen people change their life path simply by declaring who they want to become. Words are not passive - they actively shape our reality. The language we use becomes the framework through which we live. When I speak to students I get them chanting: “I will = Power. I will = Power. I will = Power.

11. Purpose is the North Star.

Looking back over the past twenty years, everything I’ve learned comes back to purpose - a committed intention to realize aims meaningful to oneself and the broader world. It is the guiding force that shapes my decisions and gives direction to my life. When you have a clear sense of purpose, you move with directed focus. Sure, challenges still come, but they no longer feel overwhelming. Purpose gives meaning to both the highs and the lows. It becomes your North Star, steady and constant. When you align your actions with your purpose, life takes on a deeper significance. Purpose doesn’t just guide me - it inspires me.

12. Surfing moves people.

I got into public speaking by accident. When Surfer’s Code first published, corporations started contacting me to speak at their conferences. I quickly realized that many people wanted to create change or transformation in their lives and surfing was a great source of inspiration, especially to people that had never surfed before. I discovered that people do not change because they have more data. They change when something moves them. When something re-connects them to purpose. When they feel challenged, inspired, and reminded of who they want to be. Surfing stories are a great way to create a warm connection. Without that connection, even the best presentation struggles to engage. You can have the slickest presso in the room, but if people feel disconnected from you and from each other the whole show feels meaningless. And without meaning, there is nothing - just empty words and data. Sometimes I have thousands of people in one room, and I do my best to create an emotional connection, and then have people create their own self transformation through their own words. Here are some warm words from a USC student after a recent event. “I am a graduating senior, and this was the most impactful talk of my college career.” This is what I like to leave behind – emotional impact. Surfing moves us – surfer and non-surfer alike.

Related: “I Did Whatever I Wanted:” Caity Simmers’ On The Offseason That Changed Everything

That could mean a number of things – sending it on a wave that looks unmakeable, buying a board without testing it that turns out to be magical, or hopping on a flight in hopes of scoring a swell in a far-flung locale. For the latter, there’s the risk of getting skunked.

But recently, when Hawaii’s Koa Rothman and Billy Kemper rolled the dice. They flew to Fiji for a season-opener swell, with their sights set on scoring Tavarua’s famed Cloudbreak, before Tropical Cyclone Vaianu swirled through the South Pacific. And the gamble paid off – at least for a little while, until the storm forced evacuations on Tavarua.

The video above shows the final session from that swell strike, with Rothman and Kemper (in addition to Parker Coffin) trading off overhead Cloudbreak just about as good as it gets. Prior to the session, Rothman prophesized:

“In like an hour, Cloudbreak is going to be all-time inside ledge, just draining left point as far as you can see. We spent about eight hours in the ocean yesterday, so I’m pretty fried. But it’s going to be firing, so we’re out there.”

And well, he was right. They absolutely scored.

Related: 20-Foot Sneaker Wave at Cloudbreak Swallows Jet Ski (Video)

Previously, when the swell was bigger, Rothman and the rest of the pack at Cloudbreak got caught on the inside by countless 20-foot Cloudbreak bombs. One even swallowed a jet ski, sending it into the inside reef.  “I got so caught inside,” Rothman regaled from the safety of the boat. “It’s so exhausting. It reminds me so much of, like a cat-and-mouse game. You get a sick one, then you get smoked. So tough.”

As for the most recent session, it wasn’t quite as tricky. More manageable. Then, Cyclone Vaianu hit, and from the end of the video, you can see the storm clouds forming over the beloved heart-shaped Fijian surf paradise. Surfers were forced to evacuate.

With the rain pelting him in the face, as they rushed away from the storm on the boat, Rothman exclaimed: “It feels like I’m getting hit by a BB gun!”

Good thing they scored just before. The juice was worth the squeeze.

Related: Surfers Flee Island as Tropical Cyclone Brings Wicked Conditions to Fiji (Video)